BOUDREAUX'S LOUISIANA KITCHEN, 501 E. 36th St.; 704-331-9898. With a lineup that's part Cajun, part Creole, part Mississippi, part wherever, this artful little NoDa restaurant offers traditional goodies like a killer oyster po' boy and gumbos, plus more surprising fare. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday ($6-$13).

CAJUN QUEEN, 1800 E. Seventh St.; 704-377-9017. It may not be Mardi Gras every day, but you can sure fix a craving here. The Cajun Queen is neither exclusively deep-deep-bayou Cajun nor dressed-up-fancy Creole: It's a meld, in cuisine, decor and manners. Look for BBQ shrimp (sauteed and fine), sauteed crawfish tails and good bread pudding. Dinner nightly ($15-$30)and Sunday brunch.

CARPE DIEM, 1535 Elizabeth Ave.; 704-377-7976. With intricate woodwork and lighting befitting its 50-year-old site, this restaurant offers New American cooking, with varied influences and a noteworthy support of the vegetarian. Nice attention to texture and color is evident. Save room for exquisite desserts.

Non-smoking. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($14-$30).

CUSTOMSHOP, 1601 Elizabeth Ave.; 704-333-3396. Celeb power (a partner is NYC's Dave Pasternack, chef at Esca) and clear, bright flavors along with some innovation and a funky wine list make this work. Dinner ($14-$24) Monday-Saturday; Sunday brunch ($8-$10).

DOLCE, 1710 Kenilworth Ave.; 704-332-7525. An unpretentious, tiny spot serving handsome regional Italian fare and the occasional surprising wine find, brought to you by the same folks who helped introduce Charlotte to Italian pizza at Luisa's. Lunch weekdays ($6-$9.95), dinner Monday-Saturday ($11-$21).

GLOBAL, 3520 Toringdon Way; 704-248-0866. Chef/owner Bernard Brunet tours the globe with some panache in this tiny, personal spot. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($16-$35).

ILIOS NOCHE, 11508 Providence Road; 704-814-9882. From beautiful bakery items in the morning to elegant desserts at night, this is versatile, smart and well-executed. Wood-oven-done pizzas (don't miss goat cheese, apple and prosciutto) to luscious lamb, fat sandwiches to handsome salads, the Mediterranean fare bursts with bold flavor and simplicity. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, Brunch and dinner Saturday ($3-$28).

LULU, 1911 Central Ave.; 704-376-2242. Gutsy, innovative and fun dishes that use everything from heirloom ingredients to housemade bacon, in a bistro setting, make this a rare pleasure. Duck and rabbit, steaks, gorgeous salads, and classics like mussels and frites shine. Dinner Monday-Saturday, brunch and dinner Sunday ($8-$25).

MAMA RICOTTA'S, King's Pointe Shopping Center 601 S. Kings Drive; 704-343-0148. This sprightly, cosmopolitan place banks on Italianate entrees and pastas, from pork scaloppini with balsamic and grape glaze to chicken bianco (breasts with mozzarella, prosciutto, wild mushrooms and pan juices). Lunch weekdays ($6-$12); dinner nightly ($9-$21). Brunch Sundays 10-2 ($4-$9).

MIMOSA GRILL, 327 S. Tryon St.; 704-343-0700. This strikingly designed uptown spot boasts Tennessee fieldstone, cherry wood, an art-gallery entrance and a view of fountains and terraces on Tryon Street. Sibling to Upstream and Harper's, this has a wood-burning oven and a menu that's eclectic but significantly Southern. Lunch weekdays ($6-$15); dinner nightly ($19-$35).

NOLEN KITCHEN, 2839 Selwyn Ave.; 704-372-1424. Stylish in every respect, from the tailored interior to the sleek bar and patio to a menu chock full of contemporary creative juices: butter-poached lobster and lamb tagine, mini gourmet burgers and finely crafted desserts. Lunch weekdays ($6-14), dinner Monday-Saturday ($7-24); brunch Sunday.

PEWTER ROSE BISTRO, 1820 South Blvd.; 704-332-8149. This Charlotte old-timer has contemporary flair and plenty of light dishes (plus nice vegetarian options), and Sunday brunch is one of the town's best. Lunch Monday-Friday, brunch Saturday and Sunday ($6-$12); dinner nightly except Sunday($14-$28).

ROOSTER'S, 6601 Morrison Blvd.; 704-366-8688. Grab a seat at the bar if you want to watch a kitchen in action producing spit-fire-roasted chicken and leg of lamb, barbecued pork shoulder, grilled or seared fishes; vegetables that are deep-fried, pan-fried, wilted or roasted; and more. You can also loll at a table, but you'll miss a good show. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday (proteins $6-$19; sides $4-$9).

SIR EDMOND HALLEY'S, 4151-A Park Road; 704-525-2555. Billed as a restaurant and free house (old England's name for a pub pouring all manner of brews, not just one company's), this offers Brit fare and an amazing assortment of Brit-etc. brews. It also offers contemporary fare, plus plentiful portions and creative desserts. The entire menu is served until 2 a.m. Lunch weekdays ($8 including drink); dinner nightly ($7-$18).

SONOMA MODERN AMERICAN, Founders Hall 100 N. Tryon St.; 704-332-1132. Tucked into Founders Hall, it's a stylish mix of dark wood and frosted glass, with an equally stylish seasonal menu from chef Tim Groody. Lunch weekdays ($7-$13); dinner Monday-Saturday ($17-$35).

TERRA, 545-B Providence Road; 704-332-1886. A bistro with plenty of Italian flavor amid the French, and lush dishes all around. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday ($18-$30).

TOSCANA, 6401 Morrison Blvd.; 704-367-1808. Sensual in both food offerings and ambiance, Toscana speaks Italian in vivid colors and flavors. Both the delicate and the robust are nicely done in a menu that changes seasonally. Lunch weekdays ($8-$13); dinner Monday-Friday ($16-$30).

VILLAGE TAVERN, 4201 Congress St., Suite 190; 704-552-9983. Notable for a sleek terrace that has live music in the summer, this is an all-purpose stop. The interior's pubby, with cherry wood and black and white tile. The menu's varied, from good burgers to grilled fish to Sunday brunch, while sandwiches are done pretty well and there's always the ``World's Smallest Sundae.” Lunch Monday-Saturday and Sunday brunch ($6-$15); dinner nightly ($10-$26).

BAODING, 4722 Sharon Road, Suite F; 704-552-8899. A dramatic black interior is capped with a bar built into a mountain - muraled, that is - and the place has 20-foot ceilings. Entrees walk the line among proven-popular and daring; among the latter are Baoding duck and whole fish (usually snapper) steamed or Szechuan style. Dinner nightly ($8-$17). Baodingsouthpark@hotmail.com Email: info@baodingsouthpark.com (website email)

BRAZAS, 4508 E. Independence Blvd.; 704-566-1009. A Brazilian concept that sure seems American, this churrascaria de rodizio takes all-you-can-eat and adds a shot of glamor. Help yourself at buffets of Brazilian specialties like feijoada (black beans and meat with rice), then turn the little card on the table to ``Yes, please” and servers begin to stop by your table, offering you tidbits of grilled meats off enormous skewers - everything from beef tenderloin to lamb to venison. Lunch ($14.95-16.95), dinner (24.95-26.95). Brazascharlotte.com.

CUISINE MALAYA, 1411 Elizabeth Ave.; 704-372-0766. A well-edited introduction to the composite that is Malaysian food, from satays to the thin bread called roti canai to curries and sarang burong, plus a long list of sushi. Try beef rendang. Lunch ($6-$13) and dinner ($8-$30) daily. Cuisine-Malaya.com

DIM SUM, 2920-B Central Ave.; 704-569-1128. ``Real Chinese Cuisine” says one menu heading, and if you've noticed the table near the back where cooked ducks and pigs are hung, you believe. Dim sum, tidbits like dumplings and rice noodle crepes, are available all the time. Lunch and dinner daily, entrees about $10-$34.95, appetizers $2.45-$4.95.

FIAMMA, 2418 Park Road; 704-333-3062. Beautiful and uncommon Italian food, from housemade risotti and pastas to the Mediterranean fish called orata to ricotta cheesecake, comes in a comfortable and family-friendly setting - which means, of course, that there are pizzas, too. The thinner, more rustic Italian version, that is. Lunch ($7-$8) Monday-Saturday; dinner ($7.50-$27.00) nightly. Cuisineofcharlotte.com

GREEK ISLES, 200 E. Bland St.; 704-444-9000. A real cross-section of Greek food - from lush seafood to staples like spanakopita and mousaka - and amiable service produce a great introduction for those new to the cuisine, and a satisfying return for aficionados. Don't miss octopus - served hot or cold - and the whole fish. Lunch Sunday-Friday ($6-$8) dinner Monday-Saturday ($10-$20). http://greekislesrestaurant.com/

KABOB HOUSE, 6432 E. Independence Blvd.; 704-531-2500. The heart of the menu is - surprise! - kabobs: ground sirloin mixed with onions and spices, chicken, beef tenderloin, Cornish hen, salmon. But daily specials are worth seeking out, including sophisticated stews called khoresht and rice-based dishes called polo. Belly dancing Saturday nights. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday ($3.95-$18.85). http://www.kabobhousenc.com/

LATORRE'S, 118 W. Fifth St.; 704-377-4448. An invigorating menu of dishes dubbed Nuevo Latin: churrasco colombiano (grilled rib-eye with chimichurri), scallops over coconut rice with sweet plantains and mango mojo and more. The decor's equally fresh and bright. Friday and Saturday nights, the upstairs becomes a lounge after 10:30, and a DJ plays salsa and merengue you can dance to. Spanish acoustic guitar on Wednesday and Thursday. Lunch weekdays ($6-$16); dinner Monday-Saturday ($16-$28). http://www.latorresrestaurant.com/

MIRO, 7804-A Rea Road; 704-540-7374. Vibrant Spanish food with some digressions, suave service and a clean, simple interior dotted with the work of Surrealist artist Joan Miro make this a refreshing stop. A long list of tapas (small tidbits such as mussels in tomato sauce, sliced chorizo, and fried calamari) is bolstered by entrees from the light (vegetable paella, pastas) to the more substantial (seafood paella, grouper, pork with black beans, veal with chimichurri). Lunch Monday- Friday ($6-$9); dinner nightly ($8-$25). http://www.mirospanishgrille.com/home.htm

PHO 98, 5937 South Blvd.; 704-643-1243. The kitchen here seasons Vietnamese food for Vietnamese natives based on what part of the country they're from, but newcomers will find guidance, too. The pho, a fragrant broth with any number of add-ins, is terrific, but you can also be happy with the bun (a rice vermicelli dish) or quail. Lunch and dinner daily ($7-$12).

PORTOFINO, 3124 Eastway Drive; 704-568-7933. Additional location: 5126 No. 1-C Park Road, 704-527-0702. This bridges the gulf between decent clams Posillipo and New York-style pizza, with the original in a plain little shopping-center and the Park Road one more upscale. You can go high-end - calamari and scungilli or mozzarella with roasted peppers, followed by zuppa di pesce or linguine with casalinga sauce - or low-end, with housemade bread and a simple pasta or that assertive pizza. Lunch daily ($3.50-$16); dinner nightly ($9-$17).

SUSHI @ THE LAKE, 19732 One Norman Blvd. Cornelius; 704-987-8080. Rock 'n' roll and sushi pair up in a twisting room that features disco lights, artwork of famous musicians, a sports-bar area and a tickertape announcement of specials - along with dozens of nigiri sushi and maki sushi, plus teppan-yaki. A refreshing change, and you can take the kids. Lunch weekdays and Saturday, dinner nightly ($5-$52).

TAQUERIA MEXICO, 7001 South Blvd.; 704-552-2461. Authentic Mexican in a plain, plain setting. Tacos are chewy corn tortillas folded around fillings: seasoned or braised pork, chunked chicken or beef of various cuts. Smeared on your choice is a little hot sauce and a smattering of onions and tomatoes, and one taco costs $1.35. There's plate food as well: chile verde, wet burritos, shrimp rancheras, a T-bone with hot sauce. Lunch and dinner daily ($2-$8.50).

THAI ORCHID, 4223-7 Providence Road; 704-364-1134. Snapper is superb here, often 2-pounders, done as pla chu chee (whole, fried, with lemon grass and kaffir lime prominent in the sauce), or as pla jian (topped with shrimp and vegetables, plus bean sauce), or in other preparations. Conservatively decorated, with servers clad in bright clothes, this offers a relaxing evening. Lunch weekdays ($6.25); dinner Monday-Saturday ($8-$16).

VILLA ANTONIO RESTAURANT, 4707 South Blvd.; 704-523-1594. Soft candlelight, muted conversation and the seductive scent of garlic can be disrupted at any time by the OOGAH-OOGAH of a Harpo Marx horn announcing the dessert cart. In other words, expect fine dining with a large measure of unpretentious fun. The enormous menu includes all sorts of pastas, veal chops and cioppino, plus desserts. Lunch buffet weekdays ($9); dinner nightly ($16-$35).

WALDHORN, 12101 Lancaster Highway Pineville; 704-540-7047. It's a little secluded, but this (pronounced ``Vahldhorn") is a good place for traditional and contemporary German food (plus some American cuisine), from a family with German roots and experience. Wienerschnitzel to Apfelstrudel, quite a range is offered - and yes, there's a sausage plate and lots of beers. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. ($7-$21); Sunday brunch buffet ($15.95).

WOODLANDS PURE VEGETARIAN SOUTH INDIAN CUISINE, 7128-A Albemarle Road; 704-569-9193. Here you'll find the staples of south Indian cuisine, plus a few non-southern dishes, done with verve, grace and a warm welcome. Rice, lentils and wheat are the backbone, fleshed out by vegetables and the extraordinary palette of Indian seasonings - mustard seeds, cardamom, coriander, chiles, garlic, turmeric, fenugreek, peppercorns and much more. Lunch and dinner Monday-Sunday ($6-$9).

YEN'S, 9010-A Monroe Road; 704-845-9444. This tiny room in the Spanish Trace strip mall on Monroe Road is an unlikely place to find excellent Chinese food, but here it is, with a cooktop open to your perusal. Service is obliging, setting is unremarkable, food is vibrant. Lunch Monday-Friday, entrees $4.50-$5.50. Dinner Monday-Saturday, entrees $5-$12.

BEEF 'N BOTTLE, 4538 South Blvd.; 704-523-9977. Landmarks topple, downtown becomes uptown and still Beef 'n Bottle serves up steak and seafood as it has since '78. Count on oysters Rockefeller, a fine filet mignon, salad that's iceberg lettuce and a plate of veggies, and sides like home fries. Crooners are the music of choice. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($17-$38).

BILL SPOON'S BARBECUE, 5524 South Blvd.; 704-525-8865. Whole pig cooking, Eastern North Carolina-style, is what you'll get here - nutty and rich meat with just a bit of sauce. It's a plain setup, for plainly good 'cue. Catering available. Lunch Monday-Saturday ($5-$10).

CAROLINA COUNTRY BARBECUE 1101 Union Road, Gastonia, 704-867-2481. A serviceable introduction to the art of 'cue. Plenty in the state are plainer or more rawly authentic than this, but around here, this is a good bet. Sauce is a tomato-based mix, with plenty of sugar and vinegar. Quick, quick service and heavy, sweet pups. Lunch and dinner daily ($4-$15).

COMET GRILL, 2224 Park Road; 704-371-4300. A snug little neighborhood joint, this has good burgers and fries, some vegetarian stuff, deli sandwiches and family-recipe chicken wings. Live music sometimes. Dinner Tuesday, Friday and Saturday ($7-$9). Bluegrass Tuesdays.

EDDIE'S PLACE, 617 S. Sharon Amity Road; 704-442-0147. A fine family destination, this little place serves breakfast all day. Look for New Orleans-inspired tidbits like po' boys and Creoles, and a nightly list of entrees. Second location in Ballantyne, 12239 Toringdon Way, 704-542-0000. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily ($4-$18).

GREEN'S LUNCH, 309 W. Fourth St.; 704-332-1786. Serving up for 70+ years, Green's does hot dogs like no one else. The chili sauce reportedly was added in the late '60s, the slaw in the mid-'70s and a newfangled chicken sandwich even later. But just get a dog ``all the way” ketchup, mustard, fine-chopped sweet slaw, onions and orange-staining, fine-textured chili. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday, Breakfast Saturday ($1.05-$4.05).

HOTEL CHARLOTTE, 705 S. Sharon Amity Road; 704-364-8755. A classic among local places, it's named after the original Hotel Charlotte, which once was downtown. You'll find tons of beers (and club mugs everywhere) and some decent American/Cajun-style food. Lunch weekdays and Sunday ($8-12); dinner Monday-Saturday ($12-$25).

LANDMARK, 4429 Central Ave.; 704-532-1153. It's THE place to go at 2 a.m. (or anytime) when you can't decide if you want Belgian waffles or moussaka or burger and fries: It has everything, plus a huge dessert case. Breakfast, lunch ($2-$8) and dinner ($6-$14) daily - and the place stays open until 4 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

LUPIE'S, 2718 Monroe Road; 704-374-1232. Coughing hot chili (with meat, beans, vegetarian soy whatever-it-is), soft macaroni and cheese, perfectly charred burgers, an assortment of actual vegetables, killer banana pudding and Gee Whiz beer make this joint a must-eat-at. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($5-$8).

MAC'S SPEED SHOP, 2511 South Blvd.; 704-522-6227. Renovated transmission shop becomes biker-barbecue joint, with fancy motorcycles up front and smoky chopped pork - along with Texas-style brisket,smoked wings and lots of other interesting and well-done fare - inside. Don't forget the banana pudding. Lunch and dinner daily ($2-$20).

MERT'S HEART & SOUL, 214 N. College St.; 704-342-4222. Southern food from varied influences - soul food to N'Awlins favorites to updated hybrids - brighten the plates here, as the sprightly decor and friendly service (when it's not jammed) can brighten your day. Fried chicken to salmon cakes, cobblers to banana pudding and more are well represented. A great place to take visitors for a taste of the South. Lunch Monday-Friday ($5-$8), dinner Tuesday-Sunday ($10-15), brunch Saturday and Sunday.

MR. K'S, 2107 South Blvd.; 704-375-4318. Soft-serve ice cream and fabulous, corny onion rings are standouts at this classic family operation, in business more than 30 years. Burgers are another draw (the Big K is the popular quarter-pounder, and the garden burger has its loyal fans). Service is the real wonder; the family feel is apparent from the get-go. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($2-$6). ATM inside.

OLD HICKORY HOUSE, 6538 N. Tryon St.; 704-596-8014. Dark with paneling and dotted with lamps made to look like little covered wagons, this institution (it began at a different site) has served barbecue for 40 years. Sweet and sloppy, the pork or beef is served sliced or chopped in plates or sandwiches. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($6-$15).

PENGUIN, 1921 Commonwealth Ave.; 704-375-6959. This 1954 ice cream parlor turned drive-in, now turned spruced-up cafe and bar is so retro-ly cool, it's arctic: A '50s diner look, a menu stretching from fat burgers to barbecue to salt-and-pepper pork chops (and killer banana pudding) and a clientele outdone in diversity only by the fabulous jukebox. Lunch and dinner daily ($2-$7).

PIKE'S OLD FASHIONED SODA SHOP, 1930 Camden Road; 704-372-0092. It grew famous for fountain Cokes, ice cream sodas and a little menu in which plenty came from family recipes (like chicken salad and a range of cakes); now it serves dinner, too (like chicken in puff pastry with mashed potatoes). Sundays, there's a wide-ranging breakfast/brunch buffet. Lunch and dinner weekdays; lunch and dinner Saturday; Sunday breakfast/brunch ($5-$13).

PRICE'S CHICKEN COOP, 1614 Camden Road; 704-333-9866. Some of the best fried chicken in town since '62; you run in from the street to get it, and it's worth every grease spot on the cardboard box. Park where you can. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday ($4-$8). Takeout only.

RANCH HOUSE, 5614 Wilkinson Blvd.; 704-399-5411. Within these dark brown walls - lighted by a line of luminous neon outside - lives a real '50s roadhouse. Candles in dimpled red glass dimly light the room's dark paneling and crimson curtains. Seared, smoky steaks; flounder, icy beer and whiskey shots: That's Ranch House fare. Don't miss killer-hot shrimp ``cocktale.” Dinner Monday-Saturday ($14-$30).

ROASTING COMPANY, 1601-A Montford Drive; 704-521-8188. Here's rotisserie chicken injected with a Costa Rican-style marinade, some pork and a marvelous array of vegetables in a stripped-down atmosphere fine for kids, too. Don't miss the black beans. Lunch weekdays ($4-$10); dinner daily ($4-$10).

SIMMONS FOURTH WARD RESTAURANT, 516 N. Graham St.; 704-334-6640. When Vontina Knotts bought the restaurant from her mother, Dorothy Simmons, she added a few things (fish, stew beef, chicken wings, baked chicken, okra, and a variety of vegetables) but Dorothy still cooks, and the meat loaf, chicken, pork chops and cabbage are among the city's best. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($7-$10).

WOODSHED, 210 S. Main Street Stanley; 704-263-1030. The reason to go to the WoodShed is steak, but the atmosphere makes it a night, from blue lanterns on the front to the specked brown and gray of the pepper crust on prime rib. House specialty is rib eye with mushroom gravy; there are other steaks, plus shrimp, fish and chicken. Do NOT miss ``The Famous 'LBH' Onion & Tomato Sandwich.” Dinner Tuesday-Saturday ($13-$29). No liquor, but you may brown-bag.

AMALFI, 8542 University City Blvd.; 704-547-8651. Amalfi is a gentle surprise, a Neapolitan gem in shopping-center clothing. Bruschetta and mussels in marvelous marinara are among the winners, while the medium-thick-crust pizzas come with seven specialty combo toppings or your choice (including Canadian bacon and Gorgonzola cheese). Lunch Tuesday-Saturday ($3.49-$5); dinner Tuesday-Sunday ($8-$14); a 16-inch plain cheese pizza is $11.95.

BROOKLYN SOUTH, 19400 Jetton Road, Suite 201 Cornelius; 704-896-2928. Order at the counter and note the pizza dough being tossed in the air; this is an old-fashioned pizzeria, run by a family from New York. Calzones, stuffed breads, pastas and heroes share menu space with pizzas that range from Buffalo wing pizza to Nonna's, a square thin-crust pie topped with mozzarella, crushed tomatoes, basil and olive oil. Lunch and dinner daily ($1.90-$22); a plain 16-inch pizza is $11.50.

FUEL PIZZA, 1801 South Blvd; 704-335-7375.

1501 Central Ave.; 704-376-3835. An old Pure Oil filling station in Plaza-Midwood is the original site of this eclectic eatery (pizzas, wings, nachos, garlic knot sandwiches) pulling in an eclectic crowd (yupsters, dog-collared kids, tattoos and L.L. Beans). It's got a real neighborhood joint feel - and some fine pizza, sold by the slice or pie. The uptown location sports similar decor. There are multiple locations. Lunch and dinner daily; $2 for a plain slice to about $17.95 for a whole specialty pie.

402 S. Main St. Davidson; 704-655-3835.

214 N. Tryon St.; 704-350-1680.

500 S. College St.; 704-370-2755.

4267 Park Road; 704-525-3220.

14145 Rivergate Parkway Suite 200; 704-588-5333.

3078 East Franklin Blvd. Space #37 Gastonia; 704-865-6889.

LUISA'S BRICK OVEN, 1730 Abbey Place; 704-522-8782. This place's wood-burning oven was producing thin-crust pizzas with sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, pesto, Gorgonzola cheese and roasted eggplant years ago - now such toppings are available elsewhere, too, but Luisa's still does a fine job. Ingredients are put on with restraint, so get more than you think you'll eat. Lunch buffet weekdays and ($6.95); dinner nightly ($8-$17); a 15-inch plain cheese pizza is $11.50

PHIL AND TONY'S, 8136 Providence Road; 704-541-3111. Pizzas here have some range, from New York cheese to spicy chicken with chile oil. Appetizers include Ahi tuna and housemade mozzarella salad, and pastas are other options. Dinner and lunch daily. ($6-$17).

WOLFMAN PIZZA AND PASTA, Quail Corners shopping center, 8418-A Park Road; 704-552-4979. Additional locations: 106-B S. Sharon Amity Road, 704-366-3666; 1039-A Providence Road, 704-377-4695; 10620 Providence Road, 704-845-9888. ``California-style” is how Wolfman's describes its pizzas, meaning a variety of toppings and some without red sauce! (OK, it's not as shocking as it was here in '91, when they first opened.) Samples: the Veg-O-Matic (broccoli, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, banana peppers, roma tomatoes and cheeses), the New Mexico (black beans, mozzarella, cheddar, seasoned chicken and salsa) and the Mykonos (marinated romas, red onion, Greek olives and feta). Lunch and dinner daily. Pizzas about $5.99-$16.99, pastas $8-$9 (all locations) a 14-inch plain cheese pizza is $13.01.

BARRINGTON'S, 7822 Fairview Road; 704-364-5755. A tiny place with big style. Chef-owner Bruce Moffett leans toward clean arrangements of a few fine ingredients and presents them handsomely, in a prettily and simply appointed dining room. Menu changes seasonally. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($17-$30).

BLUE, Blue Restaurant, Hearst Tower 214 N. Tryon St.; 704-927-2583. A Mediterranean place that means it, Blue incorporates dishes from Morocco, Tunisia and more. Look for both traditional preparations and contemporary spins in this beautiful dining room. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($20-$50); closed Sunday.

BONTERRA, 1829 Cleveland Ave.; 704-333-9463. A remarkable range of wines by the glass - typically about 200 are available - with another 500 selections in the cellar, and other facets equally noteworthy, from unusual vegetables to the unusually detailed renovation of this former church/shop/greenhouse into an elegant dining room. Contemporary American cuisine, and changes seasonally. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($21-$38).

LAVECCHIA'S SEAFOOD GRILLE, 225 E. Sixth St.; 704-370-6776. This sprightly seafood place boasts a three-coast oyster sampler, interestingly prepared fish dishes and an abundance of fishy details, from steel sculptures to mosaics to decorative tanks. There are several choices (notably steaks) for the seafood shunner. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($17-$42).

LUCE, Hearst Tower 214 N. Tryon St.; 704-344-9222. Remember to say ``loo-cheh” and you're good to go at this evocative uptown haven of Italian cooking, a sibling to Toscana but with a more contemporary take on food and decor. Murano glass and fresco ``cartoons” by Ben Long lend elegance, but the lush food is the star. Lunch weekdays ($8-$15); dinner Monday-Saturdays ($15-$30).

MCNINCH HOUSE, 511 N. Church St.; 704-332-6159. Ellen Davis, owner of this Victorian house in historic Fourth Ward, offers seven-course dinners by reservation only. Call (as late as the same day) and you get a list of entree options faxed or e-mailed; you choose and the kitchen sets the rest of the courses (mention allergies or hatreds). A Maitre d', Wine steward and service staff helps you with anything else you need. A unique dinner. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday; fixed price is $89 per person plus bar bill, tax and tip.

MORTON'S STEAKHOUSE, 227 W. Trade St.; 704-333-2602. Big, bigger, biggest. Morton's retains its reign with the biggest portions and prices in town. You can't get this anywhere else - except the other 60-plus Morton's across the nation. Gorgeous prime steaks (double filet is 14 ounces, porterhouse 24), lobster, assorted chops and seafood are presented a la carte on a cart; sides include melon-size baked potatoes, asparagus and spinach. Order your dessert souffle before dinner and get that platinum card ready. Dinner nightly. Entrees $24-$88.

NOBLE'S RESTAURANT, 3 Morrocroft Center at 6801 Morrison Blvd.; 704-367-9463. One in a string of restaurants by chef/owner Jim Noble, this uses top-notch ingredients - in interesting combinations. When they're good, they're very, very good, like an Angus filet pan-seared in a little duck fat, or the tuna tartar timbale. Stonework and topiaries create an elegantly rustic feel. Lunch weekdays ($10-$14); dinner Monday-Saturday ($12-$40).

PALM, 6705-B Phillips Place Court; 704-552-7256. Known for caricatures of the famous and the locally so on its walls, it also sports the most varied lineup (in food and price) of our area's upscale steak restaurants - everything from pasta to seafood to veal Parmesan. Steakhouse classics abound. Lunch weekdays ($9.50-$20.00); dinner nightly ($36.50-$66).

RATCLIFFE ON THE GREEN, 435 S. Tryon St.; 704-358-9898. ``Farm to fork” is chef/owner Mark Hibbs' aim and it results in lovely dishes such as ``Breakfast for Dinner” (a crock of black truffle grits topped with pork sausage and a sunny-side-up quail egg) and roasted chicken that employ area growers' products. Try for the table in the window. Lunch ($5-$20) weekdays; dinner ($25-$40) Monday-Saturday.

SULLIVAN'S STEAKHOUSE, 1928 South Blvd.; 704-335-8228. Livelier than you might imagine for a fine-dining steakhouse, with ``swarming service” - meaning more than one person serving and clearing and generally keeping an eye on you - this is comfortable, too. A beautiful bar is set apart from the dining room and can be a destination in and of itself. Lunch weekdays ($9-$17); dinner nightly ($19-$40).

UPSTREAM, 6902 Phillips Place Court; 704-556-7730. This upper-crust sibling to the handsome Mimosa Grill and the more casual Harper's lets chef Tom Condron play with seafood to his heart's content. Look for everything from simple fresh fish with Asian accompaniments to sushi to oysters with a nice selection of champagnes by the glass. Sunday brunch buffet includes oyster bar and tapas. Lunch ($7-$14.50) and dinner ($21-$37) daily. Sunday brunch.

ZEBRA, 4521 Sharon Road; 704-442-9525. Contemporary French with an intriguing blend of formality and flexibility, this serves it all: foie gras flan in an eggshell with foie gras au torchon and truffles, for instance, or surf and turf, or pheasant. Decor is black-and-white-and-wood-all-over, and rich details abound, from an amuse-gueule (a tidbit before your meal) to beautiful little candies afterward. Breakfast, Lunch ($7-$16) and dinner ($24-$44) Monday-Friday, dinner only Saturday.

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