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Posted: Wednesday, Aug. 27, 2008

Reopened Zink finds its old chemistry

Published in: CCI test Features

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Zink, one of the city's most popular restaurants, closed its doors last spring for what was originally slated to be a month of “kitchen renovations.”

That month stretched to half a year. It reopened recently.

Changes at Zink (201 N. Tryon St., are said to have included work on the building's foundation, plumbing and possibly some work on the kitchen.

The restaurant lost several staffers, so I was curious to see how the new Zink compared to its former self.

A server recommended the barbecued Gulf shrimp appetizer. The shrimp are served with a spicy Worcestershire sauce and toasted bread points. The dish was well balanced and delicious.

Entrees feature some slightly tweaked old favorites such as the pork (now a shoulder, not a chop) with mac and cheese and greens. I opted for the seared Maine sea scallops with creamed corn and sweet tomatoes. The creamed corn was slightly lukewarm, but the perfectly seasoned scallops were some of the best I've had.

The innovative dishes even continued into dessert as I once again followed the advice of my server and sampled the peach trio. It featured small (but not too small) portions of three desserts: a poached peach, a shot of peach soup and a fancy version of peach cobbler. All three tasted incredibly fresh. It was a great way to finish an overall excellent meal.

Former regulars will be surprised to see a half empty dining room and bar as business has not yet picked up yet. The crowds may have slowed down, but the chefs have not and Zink is once again one of the best meals in Uptown.

Larken Egleston has a Culinary Arts degree from Johnson & Wales. E-mail

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