From Kathleen Purvis' blog I'll Bite, at obsbite.blogspot.com:

Mashed potatoes are easy, almost everybody likes them, and they don't take much thought. But there's just not much to get excited about, is there?

Then again ...

Atlanta chef/author Virginia Willis has this crazy ability to think like a chef about simple things. Her newest book, "Basic to Brilliant, Y'all" (Ten Speed Press, $35) is really sort of brilliant in itself: She has all these great recipes, most Southern in inspiration. For each one, she gives the recipe, then she gives you something else with it - a way to dress it up, or use it another way, or add something to it.

For instance, she has a recipe for Seafood Jambalaya, and with it she gives you an idea for grinding your basic bag of fried pork skins into a powder in a food processor and sprinkling it over things like jambalaya. Yes, she thinks like that.

Her mustard mashed potatoes grabbed my lapels and shouted, "Cook me!" When I did, it shouted with flavor. Seriously, mustard whisked into mashed potatoes: Sounds strange. Tastes delicious.

I haven't made the second recipe, but it might be just the thing for ramping up your Thanksgiving potatoes.

Virginia Willis, I bow to your cooking talent. Well-played, missy.

Yukon Gold Mash With Coarse-Grain Mustard

From “Basic to Brilliant, Y’all,” by Virginia Willis, Ten Speed Press, 2011).

2 pounds (4 to 6) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut in large chunks

Coarse salt

1 1/3 cups low-fat or whole milk (I used skim, which worked fine)

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1/4 cup coarse-grain Dijon mustard

Freshly ground white pepper (I used black pepper)

PLACE potatoes in a large, heavy saucepan and cover with cold water. Season with salt, bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease heat to low. Gently simmer until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 25 minutes.

COMBINE milk, butter and mustard in a small saucepan over low heat while the potatoes are cooking. Cook until the butter is melted; cover and keep warm.

DRAIN the potatoes in a colander and return to the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. (You’re just drying the potatoes so they mash well without being watery.) Remove from heat. Pass the potatoes through a ricer or food mill, or mash with a potato masher. Add the warm milk mixture, stirring vigorously until well-combined. (I added it by additions, so it didn’t get too loose.) Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

POMMES MONT D’OR: Yes, it means “Golden Potato Mountain.” Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a gratin dish with 1 tablespoon unsalted butter. Let the potato mixture cool slightly in the saucepan, then add 3 lightly beaten eggs and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme. Stir to combine. Pour into the prepared gratin dish and spread gently with a spatula. Sprinkle 1/4 cup (1 ounce) grated Gruyere on top and bake until a rich, golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool slightly, then serve.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.