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Paris warms during chill winter days

John Bordsen
jbordsen@charlotteobserver.com
John Bordsen
John Bordsen is the Travel Editor for The Charlotte Observer.
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2011/12/09/16/56/kQYIb.Em.138.jpg|474

    Morris

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    John Bordsen

Donna Morris, 51, is a professional trip planner in Paris (www.bestfriendinparis.com), where she has lived for five years. Morris is originally from Granite Falls.

Q: Winter in Paris - what's that like?

Magical. There is a different energy to the city. Right now, the streets are crowded with Christmas shoppers and the cafés are full with people escaping the cold. The weather in Paris is usually about the same as North Carolina. Last year we had some very cold days and even a little snow. I always advise my guests to layer and bring warm shoes or boots for walking. And never leave home without an umbrella.

Q: What are the must-sees for the run-up to the holidays?

Without doubt, the outdoor Christmas markets, the department store windows and the lights at night! Calling Paris the "City of Light" is probably most appropriate during the holiday season. Everything - buildings, trees, streets and balconies - are lit up with colorful lights. Probably the most impressive is to walk the famous Avenue Champs-Élysées towards the Tuileries Gardens where the "Grand Roue" (Ferris wheel) is waiting to take you high above the city for a delightful view. Along the way, the avenue is lined with little chalets where you can sip "vin chaud" (warm wine spiced with cinnamon) or hot chocolate while you peruse the stalls for Christmas presents and souvenirs. There are also stands with hot food - sausages and "tartiflette," a delicious mixture of potatoes, cheese and bacon.

Q: What screams 'Buy me to show you've been in Paris' at the markets?

My best advice is probably what France truly does best - food. You can't go wrong with a can of homemade foie gras, some paté or a box of beautifully packaged chocolates or macarons. And although you can't take it home with you, I would recommend eating oysters this time of year. France has some of the best oysters in the world, and winter is the best time to try them.

Gourmet food and wine trade shows are a big business this time of year as well. "Salons" that specialize in wine and gourmet products are held almost every weekend. The shows are usually in exhibition halls like the Carrousel du Louvre, a shopping mall and meeting space under the Louvre, or the Porte de Versailles, a large exhibition hall at the edge of town, where a fantastic agriculture show takes place in late February.

Q: The air is more clear in winter; what are the emblematic fragrances this time of year?

The smell of roasted chestnuts fills the air and you will usually find vendors selling them outside the big metro stations. Many apartments in Paris still have working fireplaces - so during the winter nights, you can smell the wood burning in residential neighborhoods throughout the city.

Q: Are Parisians much for being outdoors in winter?

As long as there is a café nearby, Parisians enjoy the outdoor activities in winter and the city is happy to cooperate by building ice skating rinks and keeping the parks open for jogging and strolling. This year, an ice skating rink will be erected across from the Eiffel Tower. You can rent skates or just enjoy the people watching. And if you need a quick weekend getaway, there's always skiing in the Alps or getting some sun in Nice. It's all accessible using the high-speed TGV trains that depart from various stations around the city.

Q: And Notre Dame is busy in the Christmas season?

Notre Dame is especially busy during the Christmas season. Many people - tourists and locals - go there to see the massive Christmas tree that is erected in front of the cathedral. Most of the churches, including the two American ones, have midnight Masses, Nativities and free concerts.

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