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Corsica offers charm on the Mediterranean

By Mark Vanek
Flying Standby
Corisca072.jpg

Ajaccio, Corsica, is filled with Old World Mediterranean charm. MARK VANEK


Ready to experience the Mediterranean lifestyle? Try the French island of Corsica.

Located on Corsica's western coast, Ajaccio is a modish, debonair community complemented by Old World charm. This attractive coastal retreat hosts a variety of unique shops, dramatic panoramas as well as a healthy collection of trendy bistros.

The town is becoming one of Europe's most sought-after seaside destinations. Meticulously maintained, age-old buildings showcase Ajaccio's rich past. Sparkling Mediterranean waters and sandy alcoves attract beach enthusiasts of all ages.

Getting there: Corsica Ferries (www.corsica-ferries.co.uk) makes Ajaccio easily accessible from mainland France, and any rental car that you've already secured will be included.

The arresting and tranquil Mediterranean cruise from Nice runs $82 and takes approximately 5 1/2 hours. For a luxurious upgrade, book your passage with an exclusive two-bed cabin for an additional $38. Also, British Airways, EasyJet and Air France all run daily service into Ajaccio's Napoleon Bonaparte International Airport from both Paris and London.

A room with a citadel view: In the center of Ajaccio's historic quarter is the Hotel San Carlu Citadelle, with a panoramic view of the 15th-century Genoese fortress overlooking the Mediterranean. The hotel (www.hotel-sancarlu.com) is centrally located and a short walk to the lively harbor or the scenic beach. Cost: a reasonable $72 per night

Enjoy the food: In Ajaccio, eating healthy and losing weight are part of daily life. A restaurant known for delectable, authentic Corsican dishes and charm is Le 20123. Enjoy inspired, mouth-watering sea bass, daurade or lobster, or the delightful "sanglier" - wild boar - prepared in a velvety red wine sauce.

One thing you have to sample in Corsica is a luscious pastry, fiadone. Available from any number of Ajaccio's coastal eateries, the wildly popular item is made with brocciu, a goat cheese, and is only served fresh from December to June.

Napoleon's birthplace: Napoleonic heritage steals the spotlight in Ajaccio. A multitude of tributes and monuments pay homage to Corsica's favorite son. In the town center, Place de Gaulle showcases a grand bronze statue of Napoleon on horseback towering over his four brothers.

Also, Napoleon Bonaparte's birthplace, a modest three story residence, is now a museum devoted to the early life of the French emperor and his family (www.musee-maisonbonaparte.fr).

Ajaccio shopping: Designer labels, artisan-crafted jewelry and one-of-a-kind artwork can all be discovered in the old Genoese town. On weekends, one of the largest farmers markets on the island can be found at Campinchi Square. You'll find a wide selection of uniquely Mediterranean offerings, including vine-ripened produce, fig jams, goat cheese, wild boar sauces as well as fresh olives and almonds galore.

Mark Vanek, who lives in the Lake Norman area, has unlimited standby flight privileges and writes about where he goes. Flying Standby appears in the Travel pages. Vanek's blog: flying-standby.blogspot.com.

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