Q: I recently changed a standard light switch to a dimmer switch. My issue is that I really had to stuff the new switch and wiring back into the box. Is there concern over fire? I capped everything and taped. But it's tight quarters in there.

Those wires are very tough, and since you capped them and taped, the tight quarters should be OK. If you are still concerned, you might be able to buy a bigger box, but you may also have to buy a bigger plate. Or maybe, buy a double box to accommodate the wires, and put a double switch plate on it.

Q: My condo is in a 1960s brick building with some bad sliding windows. I have mold growing on the inside, where I can touch it, so it is not between the two layers of glass. I had the glass replaced, and now in cold weather the inside glass is wet. I can wipe it off, but it comes back. How can I fix that?

What you have is excessive moisture in the house, which is condensing on the cold glass. The first time around, mold grew. The second time, with new glass, you just got condensation. What you can do to stop the water is to ventilate the house. Open windows for five minutes in the morning and five minutes in late afternoon, to release that moisture to the outdoors. If you have a humidifier, turn it off and see what happens. Another way to reduce moisture is with a dehumidifier. The dehumidifier is expensive to run, but once it takes out the moisture, it can be shut off.

Q: I am planning to roof a small shed with cedar shingles. Is it OK to install them directly on the solid sheathing without paper or furring strips?

No. Cedar and other wood shingles on the sheathing will rot because they can't breathe. Wood shingles should be applied over a small layer of air. In the good old days, builders spaced the sheathing boards (don't use plywood) about 6 inches apart. Today wood shingles are applied over Cedar Saver, an air-permeable blanket that provides the proper air space under shingles. This is what you can do: Install furring strips (1 by 3 boards) parallel to the ridge, about 6 inches apart. Then put red cedar shingles on that furring, exposed 5 inches to the weather. Leave the furring exposed at each end, for proper air flow.