Asheville (www.exploreasheville.com) is a funky, cultured, gastronomically sublime alt-universe whose laid-back vibe filters through the mountains that ring it and infuses smaller arts-and-crafts havens nearby, like Black Mountain, Swannanoa and Weaverville.

Here’s where to get a satisfying taste:

River Arts District: As downtown Asheville gentrified over the past 15 years, artists found themselves priced out of their loft studios – and many relocated to this warehouse district a little to the west, above the French Broad River. Artists and artisans here work in media that range from painting to pottery, fiber to photography – the works. More than 100 artists now have studios here. Studio strolls take place every June and November. (www.riverartsdistrict.com)

Downtown dining: There’s quite an array of fantastic restaurants, including locovore-oriented Tupelo Honey (www.tupelohoneycafe.com), Mela Indian Restaurant (www.melaasheville.com), “French comfort food” at Bouchon French Bistro (www.ashevillebouchon.com) and Zambra (www.zambratapas.com), a nifty Iberian tapas-and-wine place tucked away on Walnut Street.

Need a sampler? Asheville Food Tours take you to seven to 10 great downtown eateries for $39 per person. (www.ashevillefoodtours.com)

Get a clear handle on Asheville’s downtown elevation changes – and compact nature – at The Laughing Seed Café (www.laughingseed.com) on Wall Street. After enjoying the vegetarian cuisine, go down a hall and down the stairs to enter the back of Jack of the Wood (www.jackofthewood.com) – same building, but a floor below and facing Patten Avenue – for live evening music. You may hear anything from bluegrass to Celtic to Cajun.

The Thirsty Monk on Patton Avenue is well worth a stop: The specialty at the two-story pub is the 60-odd selections of imported Belgian beer – fantastic suds, some with hair-curling kick – and other fine brews on tap and in bottles. Can’t decide what to order? Ask an easy-to-spot staffer: They wear medieval cassocks. (www.monkpub.com )

Sample suds at micro-breweries. And Asheville has more than 10. If you’re up for a tasting, you can’t beat Highland Brewing (www.highlandbrewing.com): Its tasting room is open 4-8 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, with live music starting at 6 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Highland’s specialty is ales; they’re remarkable.

Or, just take a Brews Cruise walking or van tour of the city’s craft breweries. ($45; www.brewscruise.com/asheville)

Lazoom Bus Tours will show you all the historic and otherwise noteworthy spots in town. In a purple bus. With the accent on comedy. With “characters” jumping on and off – including a guy decked out as a nun and who does fire-eating tricks. ($23; www.lazoomtours.com)

The Asheville Urban Trail is a self-guided 1.7-mile walk that starts in front of Pack Square (get a map there) and takes you through both the beautiful downtown and the city’s history.

Bele Chere (www.belecherefestival.com) is Asheville’s biggest street event – July 27-29 this year – and the downtown streets are studded with stages offering all-day music. Add to the mix booths selling arts and crafts, several outdoor food areas – and amazing street performers.

A major hurdle is getting a room reasonably close to the fun, though shuttle buses run fest-goers to stops in suburban parking lots.