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Todos Santos: A magical village in Baja California

By John Bordsen
John Bordsen
John Bordsen is the Travel Editor for The Charlotte Observer.

Jim Pickell, 42, is an Internet tourism entrepreneur who runs baja.com., a comprehensive online source for firsthand travel information for Baja California. The Southern Californian moved to Todos Santos, Mexico – about an hour from Cabo San Lucas, in Baja California – a year ago, after spending five years in that area.

Q: The sound of wind is blowing into your telephone. Where are you right now?

At a little fruit smoothie place in Todos that opened a month or so ago. I’m exploring the patio where they’re putting in some sort of microbrewery. This is exactly the type of business my company ends up having relationships with – helping expose it as an interesting destination for tourists.

Todos is a small town with 50 or 60 restaurants; probably five are new each year. It’s a charming, artistic town, and art brings food. Going from being a corporate attorney or doctor doesn’t always translate to a lifestyle or owning a restaurant, but those making it through their first few seasons are often amazing.

Q: Your website fields questions about visiting Baja. What are people asking about? Safety?

By the time people get to us, they’ve already done a lot of research. Safety is an issue of visitor education and perception – the result of politics and the media. In reality, Venice Beach, Calif., is far more dangerous than Todos.

Many don’t understand that the Baja Peninsula is a huge place – an area as big as the state of California, and with an equal amount of things to see, touch, taste and feel. And nobody knows where to go.

Q: What brought you to Todos?

Todos is a special place – a “pueblo magico.” There are a little more than 50 of these “magic villages” in all of Mexico, and Todos is the only one in Baja now, though Loreto is being considered.

Q: Pueblo magico?

That’s a town with a certain level of preservation and which gets funding for that from the Mexican government. It has to have historical significance, some unique arts or architecture … there are a bunch of requirements. Tulum is one. Chichen Itza is another.

Back in ’83 or ’85, a well-known artist from Santa Fe, N.M., Charles Stewart, felt Santa Fe was getting too commercial, so he migrated to Todos. Many very well-known artists followed him, and the arts are flourishing here – from photography to painting. There’s a studio tour, a music festival – Peter Buck of REM played it on a volunteer basis.

So you have a very artistic community surrounded by a beautiful ocean. There are organic farms everywhere, with strawberries, herbs, mangos and more. Add yogis and surfers to the mix and it gets very diverse.

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