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Haute Tots

Comfort food gets a shred of dignity

By Bill Daley
Chicago Tribune
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2012/12/04/12/25/1rbbRq.Em.138.jpeg|295
    Diedra Laird - dlaird@charlotteobserver.com
    Fran Scibelli with her duo of bacon-wrapped Tater Tots. There are two kinds, plain and sweet potato, served in a cone.
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2012/12/04/12/26/sHKCe.Em.138.jpeg|226
    Bill Hogan - MCT
    When making homemade potato tots, remember to fry them in batches.

More Information

  • Every tot loves a dip
  • Classic roots

    Before you dismiss Tater Tots and its imitators as another example of 20th-century American food tinkering, consider where tots may actually come from. Asked in an email if there was a classic culinary antecedent for tots, the French-born and trained chef Jacques Pepin replied quickly in the affirmative:

    “Certainly potato croquettes (riced cooked potato and egg yolk shaped like corks, balls or disks, breaded and fried) or potato duchesse (the same but no breading and baked) are the ancestors,” wrote Pepin. He pointed curious cooks to “The “Fannie Farmer Cookbook” and other classics for recipes. Bill Daley


  • Where is Tater Nation?

    Ore-Ida’s iconic Tater Tots are sold across North America. But where are those little treats most popular? The west-north-central parts of the United States, according to Max Wetzel, associate marketing director for Ore-Ida.

    That means Iowa, Kansas, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota and South Dakota.

    Wetzel theorizes this is due to the popularity of the region’s traditional comfort foods, including the Tater Tot-topped casserole that is called “hot dish” in Minnesota. Bill Daley


  • Potato Tots

    Lara Ferroni, author of “Real Snacks: Make Your Favorite Childhood Treats Without All the Junk,” likes to grate a little sweet potato into her tots. She also keeps the potato skin on to preserve more nutrients. Her recipe, adapted from Cooks Country magazine, calls for corn flour and ground millet flour; substitute whole-wheat flour if you prefer.

    2 pounds russet potatoes (5-6 medium potatoes), cut into chunks

    1 medium sweet potato (1/4 pound), cut into chunks

    2 cups cold water

    2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

    2 teaspoons each corn flour and ground millet flour (available in health-food stores), or 4 teaspoons whole-wheat flour

    Pinch cayenne pepper

    Freshly ground black pepper

    Safflower or peanut oil, for frying

    PLACE the potatoes in a food processor. Pulse 5 or 6 times until coarsely ground.

    COMBINE cold water and 2 teaspoons salt in a large bowl. Add potatoes; stir to coat. Drain well through a fine sieve, pushing out as much water as you can.

    TRANSFER the potatoes to a microwave-safe bowl; microwave 4 minutes. Stir; microwave 4 minutes. Stir in the corn flour, millet flour, cayenne and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.

    LINE a 9-inch square pan with parchment; pour in the potato mixture. Spread it evenly; cool to room temperature. Chill in the freezer until frozen, at least 20 minutes. Cut into 1-by-1 1/2-inch tots.

    HEAT at least 2 inches of oil in a deep saucepan or skillet to 370 degrees. Fry the tots in batches, being sure not to crowd the pan, until golden brown, 1-2 minutes. Remove the tots with a slotted spoon; place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Repeat with the remaining tots. Serve immediately.

    YIELD: About 54 tots.



The Brothers Grigg had just started a frozen food company to make, among other things, french fries. But what to do with the scraps of spud left behind? These potato pieces were too small for proper fries, but there were too many of them to be discarded. One day in 1953, F. Nephi Grigg came up with a delicious solution: He chopped up the potato scraps, shaped them into bite-size cylinders, then fried them golden and crunchy.

Thus were born Ore-Ida Tater Tots.

Almost 60 years later, Grigg’s brainstorm – a plug of shredded potato 1 1/2 inches long and 7/8 inch in diameter – has been an enormous success. An estimated 3.5 billion Tater Tots are eaten by Americans every year, according to Max Wetzel, associate marketing director for Ore-Ida.

Tater Tots are so golden, they’ve morphed from brand to cultural phenomenon.

“It’s just a wonderful comfort food,” says Ann L. Burckhardt, author of “Hot Dish Heaven: Classic Casseroles from Midwest Kitchens.”

“It’s a tremendously handy potato item that people can use to put together a meal. I keep a package in the freezer at all times.”

Tater Tots and its imitators long ago jumped from supermarket freezer cases to restaurant menus.

In Charlotte, there are Parmesan Rosemary Tots served with the beer-battered cod at Heist Brewery. And no take-out box from Price’s Chicken Coop would be complete without the flat discs of fried potato that are definitely in the tot family.

But the real Tater Tot queen of Charlotte is chef/owner Fran Scibelli of Fran’s Filling Station, who features bacon-wrapped Tater Tots as an appetizer at both her Park Road restaurant and her new restaurant space in the 7th Street Public Market.

“When I first opened, I was trying to figure out a great appetizer – what could you wrap with bacon that hasn’t been done?” Tots weren’t such a far leap, she says. “In college, anytime we had Tater Tots was a big deal.”

The fondness for tots runs in the family. Scibelli’s brother Frank serves Golden Brown Tater Tots as an appetizer at his Bad Daddy’s Burger Bar restaurants.

Fran Scibelli takes her version even farther with the glaze on the bacon: maple syrup, black pepper, rosemary and a little ginger. That lifts it from a childhood treat to “grownup flavors.”

Scibelli isn’t afraid to admit that she uses real, frozen tots instead of making the potato plugs herself.

“Listen, I looked at a million recipes. It’s not that easy to do.”

And when a new version, made from sweet potatoes, came on the market, she was able to add a second version with jalapeno and bacon. She serves them together in a cone as a Tater Tot duo: “An amazingly sexy presentation.”

At HauteDish in Minneapolis, chef Landon Schoenefeld has a “Tater Tot HauteDish” on the menu. It’s a play not just on the wording but the innards of the dish itself.

“Tater Tot hot dish is an iconic Minnesota dish,” he said. “Typically it’s made with ground beef and green beans and canned cream of mushroom soup with Tater Tots on top.” Schoenefeld’s version is both more refined and deconstructed, resulting in a dish rooted in the familiar but presented in a new way: braised short rib subbing for the ground beef, a porcini bechamel sauce in lieu of the canned mushroom soup, French haricots verts replacing green beans.

The kicker, he said, is the three tots crowning the plate. Each tot is “essentially a croquette,” Schoenefeld said, a cheesy mashed potato bite that is shaped by hand, fried to set the outer crust and then baked to melt the insides.

“Easily it is our most popular dish,” said the chef, who estimates he’s sold 20,000 plates in the two years HauteDish has been open. Today’s price? $24.

“People don’t blink an eye,” Schoenefeld said. “It reminds them of a dish they grew up on.”

Observer food writer Kathleen Purvis contributed.

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