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• The slow way: Collards and black-eyed peas

  Ham stock: To make a seasoned stock for cooking black-eyed peas and collards, Virginia Willis starts with two smoked ham hocks and 4 to 6 cups chicken stock. Bring the stock and the hocks to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer about 30 minutes. Use as a base for cooking black-eyed peas or collards.

  Collards: They cook down, so it will look like you're starting with a mountain of raw collards. Make sure you have a big cutting board and a big pot.

  Fold each big leaf in half and cut along the stem until it narrows to about 1/4 inch wide. Discard the stem. Fill a clean sink with cold water and add the leaves. Swish them and lift them, letting any sand sink to the bottom. Empty the sink and wash them again, to be sure.

  Stack the leaves, roll them up and cut them into ribbons. Bring the ham stock back to a boil. Add the collards by big handfuls, stirring down to make room before adding more. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook slowly until tender, about 1 hour.

  Dried black-eyed peas: Place the peas in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse well. Pick through them and remove any debris.

  Place in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, remove from heat and let stand 1 hour. Discard any floating peas. Drain well. Bring ham stock to a boil and add peas. Reduce heat to low, partially cover and simmer until peas are tender, about 2 hours.

  Canned tasting: Black-eyed peas

  They're just so tempting. But how are those canned black-eyed peas? We tried five brands. The result:

  1. Glory Seasoned Southern-Style Black-eyed Peas. Glory's collards and black-eyed peas both had the best texture and flavor in the canned products. Unfortunately, they also were very salty. The reduced-sodium version is a good idea.

  2. Bush's Best Black-eyed Peas. A good choice, with pinkish peas and good flavor.

  3. Hanover Black-eyed Peas. The peas had a firm texture, although the packing liquid was very thin.

  4. Luck's Black-eyed Peas. The peas had a texture like boiled peanuts, while the liquid had very little flavor.

  5. Margaret Holmes Seasoned Black-eyed Peas. Mushy peas and gray packing liquid, with a very salty, hammy taste. Kathleen Purvis

  
  

• Black-Eyed Pea and Ham Hock Soup

  From “Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking,” by Virginia Willis (Ten Speed Press, 2008).

  2 cups dried black-eyed peas, washed and picked over

  4 to 6 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth

  2 smoked ham hocks

  1 tablespoon canola oil

  1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped

  2 carrots, chopped

  2 stalks celery, chopped

  2 cloves garlic, minced

  1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

  1 bunch collards, tough stems removed and discarded, leaves thinly sliced

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  PLACE peas in a large bowl and cover with water. Soak overnight. Or place in a large pot of water and bring to a boil over high heat, then remove from heat and set aside for 1 hour. Discard any floating peas and drain.

  BRING the stock and ham hocks to a boil in a pot over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer at least 30 minutes.

  HEAT oil in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, carrots and celery and cook until soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds.

  ADD the drained peas to the pot with the red pepper flakes, ham hocks and stock. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer until the peas are tender, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

  RETURN the soup to a boil just before serving. Stir in the collards. Cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

  NOTE: Willis says that canned peas are too soft, but you can make the soup with frozen black-eyed peas. Reduce the cooking time according to the package instructions.

  YIELD: 6 servings.

  
  

• Chiffonade of Beets and Greens

  From “Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking,” by Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart (Gibbs Smith, 2012). You don’t have to cook collards for hours. Dupree says she can’t remember how she thought of adding beets to collards, but it works.

  2 cups collards, cut in ribbons or preshredded (see note)

  2 teaspoons butter or oil

  2 cloves garlic, chopped

  1 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

  1 (16-ounce) can beets, drained and chopped

  2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or cider vinegar

  Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

  BRING a pot of water to boil. Add greens and cook 1 minute. Remove from water and drain well. (Skip this boiling step if the greens are very young and tender.)

  HEAT the butter or oil in a large, heavy skillet. Add the garlic, ginger and blanched greens. Cover and cook a few minutes. Remove lid and stir in the beets and lemon juice or vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes.

  SERVE hot or at room temperature.

  NOTE: You also could make this with turnip greens, kale or baby beet greens.

  YIELD: 4 to 6 servings.