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Suited to a tee: The beloved wardrobe staple turns 100

By Amy Hubbard
Los Angeles Times

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  • Sentimental saps

    According to a survey by T-shirt company CustomInk.com, 87 percent of Americans have at least one T-shirt they won’t toss out because of sentimental reasons.

    Whether they’re T-shirts from high school or college, from favorite bands or sports teams or even from some long-ago political rally, the nostalgia-laden shirts – sometimes too old and fragile to even wear – take up precious space in dresser drawers and closets.

    People are starting to get creative in the ways they preserve those beloved T-shirts. One popular alternative to stuffing the old shirts into a storage bin is to turn them into a keepsake quilt.

    Courtney Weller, an Apex mother of three, took dozens of T-shirts from her two sons’ various sports teams and made quilts out of them.

    “I hated to get rid of them and wanted to save them as a memento for the kids,” Weller said. “It was a weird feeling to start cutting the shirts because they were special. But I thought it turned out neat.”

    Weller said she tried to use sections of the shirts that featured her sons’ names.

    Weller is not a professional seamstress and made up her own pattern. She said she relied on examples of T-shirt quilts she’d seen in magazines.

    “I winged it,” she said.

    Patrick, 10, and Lance, 11, use the blankets all the time.

    If you want to try your own T-shirt quilt, totallystitchin.net has some basic tutorials. If you aren’t up for taking on the project yourself, there are companies that will do it for you. For more info, visit campusquilt.com or tshirtquilts.com.


  • About vintage tees

    Rocker Rags has a great collection of reproduced vintage t-shirts. Check out rockerrags.com.

    “Vintage T-shirts: More Than 500 Authentic Tees from the 70s and 80s” by Lisa Kidner and Sam Knee

    “Vintage T-shirts” by Patrick & Marc Guetta and Alison A. Nieder



This year marks the 100th birthday of the T-shirt. Maybe.

It’s clear the simple little garment has been around for many, many years and rose in popularity just as fashion was losing some of its starch. But no one knows exactly when the T-shirt as we know it was born.

What we do know is that in 1913, the U.S. Navy brought tees into public consciousness in a big way when it ordered a “light undershirt” for sailors to wear under uniforms.

Americans were likely taking their cue from European soldiers who had begun sporting lightweight cotton undergarments. But online T-shirt maker CustomInk, for one, has seized on the Navy’s 1913 endorsement of the garment to trumpet the T-shirt’s century mark, as well as round up its own list of iconic T-shirts through the ages.

The first use of the word “T-shirt” in print was in 1920 in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s “This Side of Paradise,” according to fashion historian Heather Vaughan. Protagonist Amory Blaine sets out for New England, “the land of schools,” and his list of supplies includes “six suits summer underwear, six suits winter underwear, one sweater or T shirt.”

The T-shirt gained popularity in an era when the union suit fell by the wayside and underwear was becoming outerwear. What was it that brought an undergarment out into the sunshine?

Three things were key, Vaughan said: Everyday-wear was becoming more informal, sportswear was on the rise, and men’s relationship with their undershirts was changing.

In the late 1920s, she said, the one-piece union suit was out, and sleeveless undershirts were in.

Then, Clark Gable took off his shirt in the movie “It Happened One Night” (1934) to reveal his bare chest. Legend has it that there was a dip in undershirt sales, which may or may not be so. But as men debated skipping the undershirt as Gable did, they were donning T-shirts for daywear.

It was part of the gradual change in fashion from the 1920s to the 1940s, said Vaughan, Western region president of the Costume Society of America.

“During this time, fashion became somewhat less formal,” she said, “and casualwear grew more distinct.”

In 1938, Sears sold what it called a “gob”-style tee (slang for Navy seaman) for 24 cents each. In ’42, one of the earliest printed T-shirts – Air Force Gunnery School, worn by a strapping student – made the cover of Life magazine. During World War II, Army soldiers so liked their own T-shirts that they opted to wear them instead of the Army-issued tank-style undershirt, according to the 90th Infantry Division Preservation Group.

Graphic T-shirts got their real start around 1950 as the original licensee for Disney characters, Tropix Togs, adorned T-shirts with Mickey Mouse and a gun-toting Davy Crockett, among other characters.

Not long after, Hollywood reached a zenith of T-shirt hotness – the 1950s. “A Streetcar Named Desire” in 1951 brought Marlon Brando bellowing, “Stella!” in a ripped T-shirt that revealed his well-muscled back. Brando wore his tee under leather in 1953’s “The Wild One.” Then, James Dean created a classic image in white tee and blue denim in 1955’s “Rebel Without a Cause.”

Tie-dyed T-shirts became a symbol of the 1960s, when message shirts also came into their own. Warren Dayton created wearable art with images of Cesar Chavez, the Statue of Liberty, “polluted lungs and other political and comic images,” as his website states. The ’60s also saw the kickoff of “Che chic,” with T-shirts stamped with the face of Argentine Marxist revolutionary Che Guevara.

By comparison, memorable images from the 1970s and ’80s were on the lighter side – the Rolling Stones’ lips and tongue, the happy face icon, the MTV logo. This era also saw the advent of the iron-on transfer. It was instant customization, as CustomInk notes.

The T-shirt has transformed from an undergarment into a personal billboard – a carrier of messages, conveyor of attitude.

Perhaps most startling, a century later, is that garment that started it all is the plain white T-shirt.

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