Save Money in this Sunday's paper

comments

American Cafe is chef’s wide-ranging hotel spot

  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2013/11/07/21/06/wGc6X.Em.138.jpeg|316
    - HELEN SCHWAB
    We may have gotten the summer’s last tomatoes in this, with mozzarella, roasted red pepper, pesto and a balsamic reduction.
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2013/11/07/21/06/GzTu3.Em.138.jpeg|316
    - HELEN SCHWAB
    Chicken parmigiana.
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2013/11/07/21/06/3wBKs.Em.138.jpeg|316
    - HELEN SCHWAB
    Shrimp and grits, American style.

More Information

  • Review

    American Cafe and Lounge

    * * 1/2

    Plentiful, solid fare, made for mass appeal.

    Food: * * 1/2

    Service: * * 1/2

    Atmosphere: * * 1/2

    3695 Foothills Way, Fort Mill, S.C. (in the Clarion Hotel); 803-548-1158; http://on.fb.me/1hjVF62 .

    HITS: Big portions, simple flavors, an emphasis on made-in-house; friendly service.

    MISSES: Some uneven cooking and serving; less-than-perfect tomatoes.

    PRICES: Sandwiches and entrees $6.50-$14.

    HOURS: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.

    INSPECTION SCORE: 91 Oct. 11.

    * * * * = excellent; * * * = good; * * = fair; * = poor



American Cafe and Lounge is an inexpensive hotel restaurant from a fine-dining chef, and as such, it’s got some real pros. And a few cons.

Tucked into the back side of the Clarion near Carowinds (and the intersections of I-77, U.S. 21 and S.C. 51), the restaurant sports a menu that ranges wide: fried pickles to fish and chips to fettuccine alla panna, wings to wedge salad to – well, of course, the obligatory steaks, but also housemade mozzarella and a family meatball recipe.

You may know chef Luca Annunziata from Passion8 Bistro, another rather unlikely venture in Fort Mill – though that one combines his Italian roots and broad cooking background with primarily local ingredients. There he does a changing-nightly menu that emphasizes the Slow Food concept. And it’s not cheap; entrees hover in the $30 range. (Newcomer foodies might have seen him and his crew reach the semifinal round of the “Fire in the City” cooking competition.)

Here, he’s combining big portions and dishes that can appeal to just about anyone.

Even so, I didn’t expect an $8 wedge salad to be an entire head of iceberg lettuce, nor a sizable bowl of linguine, marinara and meatballs to cost $6. (That was a nightly special; it’s usually $11.) A bowl of shrimp and grits had half a dozen fat shrimp, nicely cooked, along with both okra and chorizo; was one of the best dishes we had; and rang up at $13.

Housemade mozzarella, sliced thick and alternated with tomatoes, then drizzled with pesto, strips of roasted red pepper and lots of balsamic reduction, is a pretty dish, though it’s awfully late to have a dish featuring tomatoes still on the menu (and the tomatoes were, predictably, not great). Nix the tomatoes and it’s strong.

Similarly, the meatballs (Luca’s mom’s recipe) proved tender and homey, and the marinara simple and good, but the linguine wasn’t as vibrant. Better was a chicken parmigiana: hefty and peasant-y and delicious.

Grilled salmon was fine, atop mashed redskins with an extremely mild white-wine/garlic sauce, though it had clearly been waiting for my companion’s entree (the plate was beyond hot). Skirt steak with chimichurri was bolder, and nicely cooked.

The only true dud was an apple strudel served cold and stiff; I wish I’d chosen the flavored creme brulee or pot de creme we were offered instead, since all are made in-house.

Servers couldn’t be warmer, if a little casual. One night we listened to line cooks chat about their favorite dishes with customers, and how much they appreciate Annunziata’s teaching and leadership. That’s not something you hear every day.

Annunziata and his wife, Jessica, plan to move Passion8 to Elizabeth in May 2014, which will, she has said, afford him the opportunity to really stretch out, culinarily speaking. I’m looking forward to that. At American Cafe, you won’t find boundaries pushed; you’ll find basics, and lots of them.

Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

The Charlotte Observer welcomes your comments on news of the day. The more voices engaged in conversation, the better for us all, but do keep it civil. Please refrain from profanity, obscenity, spam, name-calling or attacking others for their views.

Have a news tip? You can send it to a local news editor; email local@charlotteobserver.com to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Charlotte Observer.

  Read more



Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

The Charlotte Observer welcomes your comments on news of the day. The more voices engaged in conversation, the better for us all, but do keep it civil. Please refrain from profanity, obscenity, spam, name-calling or attacking others for their views.

Have a news tip? You can send it to a local news editor; email local@charlotteobserver.com to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Charlotte Observer.

  Read more


Quick Job Search
Salary Databases