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German Grille now open Cary

By Greg Cox
Doug Robarchek
Doug Robarchek is a retired Observer humor columnist.

Paul Hoffman, owner of the now-shuttered Bavarian Brathaus in Durham (and founding partner in an earlier location in Cary) is having another go at the brats-and-brews market. This time, he has partnered with Jenny Hubert to open German Grille in Harrison Pointe Shopping Center.

The new restaurant is reviving the popular house-made bratwursts that were a mainstay at Hoffman’s previous ventures, but the rest of the menu is getting a makeover. Notably, a new “Small Plates” section offers reduced portions of several entrees, from sauerbraten to Wienerschnitzel (pork, chicken or eggplant, with a gluten-free breading) for $10.99, including sides of red cabbage, mashed potatoes and bread with honey butter. A new sandwich selection includes burgers on German-style Bretzel rolls, Reuben on marble rye, and a vegetarian grilled onion and mushroom cheese melt.

Beer steins and lederhosen dominate the decor, with one noteworthy twist: Hoffman and Hubert have cleverly converted the refrigerated buffet station they inherited from the previous occupant into a chiller for beer and schnapps glasses. An assortment of German brews are on tap to fill those glasses, and the bottled beer selection includes a gluten-free Belgian.

German Grill (243 Grande Heights Drive; 919-462-8208; serves lunch Friday-Sunday and dinner nightly. In the near future, the owners plan to extend lunch service to include the rest of the week.

Cox, the N&O’s restaurant critic, reports on restaurant openings and closings. Reach him at Tune in to his radio show at 11 a.m. Saturdays on WPTF.

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