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Worth tasting: Toronto

By Francine Prose
New York Times
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2014/03/14/21/36/ZkcfL.Em.138.jpeg|316
    IAN WILLMS - The New York Times
    The CN Tower dominates the skyline of Toronto, Feb. 13, 2014. Few cities in North America both celebrate and preserve their multicultural identity quite like Toronto, and the diversity of food and shopping options help make it a great walking town.
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    IAN WILLMS - The New York Times
    Jason Hazel helps sisters Samantha and Jenny Alphonse, center, go skating at Nathan Phillips Square in downtown Toronto, Feb. 18, 2014. Most residents and casual visitors agree that Toronto, with its clean, safe streets and polite, helpful people, is a city whose pleasures outweigh the perception that it is too proper, predictable and staid to be a great tourist city.
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2014/03/14/21/36/PLTjN.Em.138.jpeg|210
    IAN WILLMS - The New York Times
    Jose Troncoso sells churros at Pancho's Bakery in Kensington Market near downtown Toronto, Feb. 15, 2014. No city in North America both celebrates and preserves its multicultural identity quite like Toronto, and the diversity of food and shopping options help make Toronto a great walking town.
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2014/03/14/21/36/suWha.Em.138.jpeg|210
    IAN WILLMS - The New York Times
    Brick row houses, a common sight throughout Toronto, in the city's Little Portugal neighborhood, Feb. 18, 2014. The preservation of architectural identity from neighborhood to neighborhood and the embrace of multicultural food and shopping options help make Toronto a great walking town.
  • http://media.charlotteobserver.com/smedia/2014/03/14/21/36/13nfQb.Em.138.jpeg|210
    IAN WILLMS - The New York Times
    Saturday morning shoppers check out the food, crafts and farm produce at St. Lawrence Market in downtown Toronto, Feb. 15, 2014. Few cities in North America both celebrate and preserve their multicultural identity quite like Toronto, and the diversity of food and shopping options help make it a great walking town.

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Toronto is a great walking town, and part of what makes it so much fun to explore is the range and variety of the neighborhoods in which the city takes pride – from Yorkville, with its fashionable shops and department stores, to Old Town, where you can find the St. Lawrence Market, an immense covered structure offering a huge selection of foods and crafts, and where, on Saturdays, local farmers sell their produce.

Some of the neighborhoods are known for architectural beauty: the charming Victorian houses along the tree-lined streets of Cabbagetown, originally a working-class Irish enclave; the equally attractive brick mansions and neo-Gothic cottages of the Annex, a district of artists, professors and students who attend the nearby University of Toronto; the brick rowhouses and manicured lawns of Roncesvalles and the mansions of Forest Hill.

In Kensington Market, one of the city’s most diverse and fascinating places, this mixture is humorously reflected in the name of a Jamaican-Italian restaurant: Rasta Pasta.

Kensington Market – walking distance of the entertainment and business districts and close to most of Toronto’s major hotels – is a prime illustration of how Toronto ticks. Because within just a few blocks, you can get a vivid idea of how smoothly and gracefully the city succeeds at simultaneously dissolving the borders between disparate cultures and preserving what’s best and most valuable about each one.

At Nu Bügel, you can sample wood-fired bagels (the sesame is a standout) baked by a family of Venezuelans; a bit farther down Augusta Avenue, two empanada shops face each other across the street, and nearby are restaurants in which you can enjoy French-Caribbean cuisine, tacos, sushi, and pastries and vegetarian fare at the popular Wanda’s Pie in the Sky. On Baldwin Street, not far from Spadina Avenue, there’s a Middle Eastern grocery, Jamaican gift store and Ethiopian spice market. And near Augusta Avenue and College Street is Caplansky’s, where the pastrami and corned beef (they’re called smoked meats here) rival any to be had at New York’s legendary delis.

Toronto celebrates its multicultural heritage. There is an online multicultural calendar devoted to listing the lectures, religious and national holidays, and street festivals sponsored by the city’s range of communities. Often, it strikes me that the city is more successfully integrated than the cities of its neighbor over the border.

Of course, even the most naïve tourist has only to glance at the newspapers or catch a few minutes of the nightly TV news to learn that Toronto has its share of poverty, prejudice, gang violence and political scandal; my most recent visit there coincided with the embarrassing revelations and the furor over the drug use of the controversial mayor, Rob Ford. Some complain that Toronto – metro population: 5.6 million – is too proper, too predictable, too staid, that it lacks the joie de vivre of Montreal. But casual travelers and most longtime residents agree that the city’s pleasures outweigh its shortcomings.

At restaurants in Toronto, I notice racially and ethnically mixed groups of friends even more often than I do in New York neighborhoods celebrated for their diversity. I see a much wider variety of visitors to the city’s excellent museums: classes of children lying on the floor and drawing at the Royal Ontario Museum, which features stellar collections of Asian and Middle Eastern art and of Canadian painting, and at the Art Gallery of Ontario, where popular recent exhibitions have included shows of Ai Weiwei’s work and of ephemera connected with David Bowie’s career. Everywhere, glimpses of residents going about their daily routines – the Sikh policeman directing traffic, the Vietnamese and Filipino reporters broadcasting the TV news, novelists from the Caribbean reading their work at the city’s annual International Festival of Authors – testify to the welcome that Toronto has given the immigrants who have sought refuge here.

One paradox of Toronto is that even as the city enables new arrivals to assimilate into Canadian life – people talk about how a certain neighborhood was originally home to immigrants from one area, who then moved on to a more prosperous district, making room for the next wave of people from somewhere else – its ethnic neighborhoods are strongly evocative of their residents’ countries of origin, and the shops (and most notably the restaurants) seem more authentic than they do in other cities to which immigrants have imported their culture and their cuisine.

The truth is, that what I really like to do in Toronto – besides walking around and exploring – is to eat. There are places to which I return on each visit, new places I discover each time, and others I mean to try, don’t get around to, and vow to return to, on my next trip.

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