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It's time to aerate, fertilize, overseed

Nancy Brachey
Nancy Brachey writes about gardening for The Charlotte Observer's weekly Home & Garden section.
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    Chuck Mumaw of Tru Green Chemlawn reseeds and limes a front lawn after aerating it.

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    Aeration is done by machine, which picks up plugs of soil and leaves them atop the ground, where they break down slowly.

More Information

  • Q. My lawn is covered in crabgrass. How do I kill the crabgrass without killing the fescue? The lawn was planted last year in April and did not get much water.

    While the problem is obvious right now, the time for action isn't until March. Crabgrass is a hot-weather weed that will be killed in cold weather. Alas, by then, the crabgrass plants will have produced umpteen zillion seeds that will rest on the soil all fall and winter and be ready to germinate when the weather warms.

    Pre-emergent crabgrass control can be put down next March. It keeps the crabgrass from developing after it germinates. However, it does not affect growing lawn grass. One application lasts about three months. Since you have a big crop, you may need to repeat the application after three months next summer.

    Do your best to encourage a thick lawn, which itself will help, but not prevent, crabgrass. I suspect your lawn is thin because of its youth and lack of water. Fertilizer and overseeding should thicken it up this fall.

Nothing replaces lawn renewal done between mid-September and mid-October. That is because a very high percentage of Piedmont lawns are made of some type of fescue grass. These are cool-seasons grasses that develop best as the season grows cooler. Their roots keep growing much of the winter and the grass should be ready to grow through the cooler months of spring. By late summer, some fescue lawns look tired, even worn out. Others still look good. Wherever your lawn falls, it's about time to take action. Last week, I suggested some preliminary work, such as assessing and perhaps reducing the size of your lawn to create natural areas, determining how much actual grass you own, the addition of lime to raise the pH and weed control. Now proceed to the main events.

Aeration and digging

This is one of the most important things you can do for your lawn and is essential if you plan to overseed. Aeration is done by machine, which picks up small plugs of soil and leaves them on top of the ground, where they break down slowly and loosen the soil. Because it creates cracks and crevices where seeds can lodge securely and roots attach, aeration is essential when reseeding. Lawn companies do this service, and rental companies often offer them. Neighbors often go together to rent a machine for a weekend. A thin layer of compost placed over the aerated area will further help the soil. The general rule is to aerate every other year, but every fall is fine and many people see it as essential. Bare spots, especially ones that have been well-pounded by foot traffic, need more than core-aeration. They require digging up with a shovel or tiller to make them suitable for grass seeds. Dig at least 3 to 4inches deep, then smooth and level the area with a rake.

Fertilizer

Perhaps your lawn looks pretty good; even so, fertilizer is necessary to get the fescue off to a new season of growth. This is best done between now and mid-October and again around Thanksgiving in late autumn, and in late winter, about mid-February. A wide range of brands in specially formulated lawn fertilizer, which have a high percentage of nitrogen, are on the market. Nitrogen is a key ingredient in making leaves grow well. If you are seeding, use a starter fertilizer, which is formulated to encourage root as well as leaf development.

Overseeding

A lawn that is thick or close to it won't need overseeding. As a general rule, overseed if you have less than 50 percent grass distributed evenly. The amount of seed you need depends on the brand and can range from 2 to 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet for overseeding. Read the label so you will get the right amount. Certain seeds are formulated for special circumstances, such as shade. Getting the right formula is a big step toward success. Whether you are overseeding the entire lawn or just working on bare spots, try to sprinkle the seeds evenly, so that there is a bit of space between them. Use a rake to spread out ones that get clumped.

After care

Water is essential to help the seeds germinate and grow. Growing grass requires about 1 inch of water a week. Water if you need to. Mow the young grass when it reaches 3 inches, and make sure the mower blades are sharp.

And try, as much as possible, to keep everyone off new, young grass.

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