Our fare was precise, attractive, and rich, rich, rich. Think your courses through or you may get Butter Fatigue. Modern duck a l’orange produced perfect, tender meat in that fabulous rosy hue, along with rillettes and thickly sliced braised fennel, while a boar loin chop arrived with a little bacony Duroc pork belly and an innocently named “gratin of Truffled Macaroni” you’d trade your car for (and enough sliced black truffle on top to maybe make it worth it, depending on your make and model).
The menu is tight and bright: just a few things at each course – butter-poached lobster is quite popular, I was told, and a salad featuring Moroccan dates stuffed with chevre that I found a tad cloying. More bitter greens, please! Complimentary niceties range from amuse-bouches to macarons (marvelous, by the way), and you can watch the kitchen, fully toqued, do its thing from nearly every seat in the house.