His focus, and his background, since his family owns a farm in Gamewell in Caldwell County, is local and seasonal. The result, on our visit, was delicious: velvety beef cheek; delicate black drum with a matching consomme, plus bok choy and roasted oyster mushrooms; fried oysters with a marvelous sweet potato puree – and nearly everything sporting its provenance by farm/provider name: Lucky Clay’s (aquaponics in Albemarle), Salem Hills, Happy Valley (caviar), New River Organic Growers (ducks, rabbit, produce), Rosemary Pete’s, Orrman’s Cheese Shop and more.
Servers’ everything’s-from-N.C. bit needs to adjust in spots (Anson Mills = S.C.) but there’s enthusiasm aplenty, and you can go the usual menu route or try a multi-course tasting menu. Worldliness is mixed in, along with a whole-animal perspective (Dominican pupusas with beef tongue conveys both points on the tasting menu). Desserts from pastry chef Joselyn Perlmutter (another detail you might not expect) range from tiny eclairs to fresh nut brittles.