Sweet Dreams Mattress, Inc.
Most Recently Answered Questions
Questions 16 - 35 of 205 (Page 2 of 11)Submitted by Carol from Denver, NC
Q:This spring, I planted 2 peony plants. The leaves are turning brown on them. My shasta daisies also have leaves turning brown. Help!
A: The brown leaves on the peony plants are probably caused by a fungus that affects them in the spring. At the end of the season, cut off all the stems and foliage. This is a common problem that can be reduced by spraying new foliage with a fungicide as they emerge in spring. The Shasta daisies may be suffering from inadequate watering. Try to water them with a slow drip so that the water seeps into to soil. For appearances sake, trim off the brown leaves.
Submitted by Erika from Concord, NC
Q:Hi Nancy! I have a river birch in my front yard that for some reason died this year, but I have about 10 new shoots in it. What do I do with the rest of the dead tree, which is over 7 feet or so? Thanks!
A: I would cut out all of the dead wood, which will take some work. Then pick the three most vigorous looking new shoots and let them grow as the framework for the new tree. Cut out all the others. Try to choose new stems that are evenly spaced around the plant.
Submitted by SANDRA VAUGHN from CHARLOTTE N/C
Q:I WOUL LIKE CAN IMOVE MY GARDENIA BUSHES NOW .I WOUL LIKE TO MOVE THEM TO ANOUGHTER LOCATION IF I CANT MOVE THEM NOW WHEN CAN I MOVE THEM IF POSSIBLE
A: This is not a good time to move evergreen shrubs. Move them in late autumn when there will be less stress on the plants. Use root-stimulating fertilizer to encourage faster root development after replanting.
Submitted by Cecily Lohmar from Davidson, NC
Q:Nancy, I have a few bunches of daylilies in my yard, planted by a previous owner. They are in full to part sun, depending on the grouping. Two groups are next to crape myrtles. The daylilies bloom beautifully in June, then they 'go to seed' by July 1. I deadhead the seed pods, but cant' get flowers back. The leaves on the bottom also start turning brown and dying back. What can i do to get them the bloom all summer like all the others i see? I've tried fertilizer - miracle grow. Thanks
A: Most daylilies bloom just once, in early summer, and this is genetic. It doesn't have anything to do with the care you give them. Some new varieties, such as Happy Returns and Stella d'Oro, rebloom, but not in the abundance of the first show. I suggest you add some of these rebloomers to your collection and extend the show. There are also some varieties that tend to bloom later, about mid-summer.
Submitted by Shirley Hynes from Newfoundland
Q:I have a 20 year old mock orange that has grown so big that it has to be moved as it is blocking our deck and walkway. I have been trimming it but it is still too big. It is about 8 feet tall. Is it possible to move it manually without equipment as there is very little room where it is located. Any advise would be appreciated. thanks Shirley
A: I think it would be very difficult to dig up a plant that size and move it yourself. The damage to the root system would be substantial. It woud take years to recover if it ever did. Buying a new one would likely be cheaper than hiring a professional with a mechanical digger. It could be possible by strategic thinning of the main branches to make it less obtrusive on the deck. This would mean selective removal of certain branches, taking care to maintain a pleasing shape. Look it over and think about this.
Submitted by jane nunn from rock hill sc
Q:Dear Nancy-A couple of years ago, I read how to dry mophead hydrangea blooms to keep their color and it workded beautifully. But, you guessed it, I have forgotten part of the process.I remember they advised to wait until the tiny flowers in the center of the bloom were opening and then pick them, but I don't remember what I did after that. Have you heard of a good method to dry them and keep their color? Mine is loaded with blooms this year and I would like to dry a bunch and make a wreath of them. Thanks for your help. jane Nunn
A: The best way to do this is to cut the stems 12 to 18 inches long and crush to stems to make them take up water. Do this as they blooms mature after mid-summer because they are less likely to wilt. The standard drying method is 2 parts water and 1 part glycerin. The glycerin tends to make the blooms more supple, less brittle than air-dried flowers. The glycerin holds on inside the plant tissue as the wwater evaporates. It takes a few weeks. To retain the blue or green color, add a drop or two of dye to the glycerine-water solution.
Submitted by Carolyn from Charlotte,NC
Q:I am fighting black spot on ornamental, wild and even the new "disease resistant" roses. I pick off the diseased leaves and dispose of them. What else do you recommend?
A: Since you have a serious infestation of black spot more actionis required than picking off leaves. You must begin spraying the plants with a fungicide that states on the label it works against black spot. Also, look at the ground or mulch under the plants. They may have fallen, diseased leaves that are a ready source of fungus to reinfect the plants. If a lot of leaves are there, clean off the mulch and replace it with clean pine needles. Consider your watering practices. Are you wetting the foliage when you water the plants? Try to avoid that by putting your hose at the base of the plant.
Submitted by brenda from Taylorsville N.C.
Q:One of my dwarf crepe myrtles was frozen in the BIG EASTER FREEZE but there are signs of life coming out from the bottom of the tree.Should the original trunk,which looks dead,be cut off or left alone
A: If the original trunk is dead, cut it off to the base of the plan. Then choose the most vigorous looking shoots rising from the ground. You should have three to five of these, evenly distributed around the plant. Make these stems the foundation of the new crape myrtle. Cut off the weaker ones, especially if they bump into or cross the ones already selected to form the framework of the tree. You want to create a multi-trunk plant.
Submitted by Yankeebrat13 from Charlotte, NC
Q:I grew up on a farm in Ohio and we always had a garden. This year I decided to take a shot at planting some veggies in pots and place them out on my deck. I've never grown plants in a pot - so I'm really not sure how much to water them. I have zucchini, squash, Cherry and Better Bush tomatoes, cucumbers, and sweet green and red peppers. I can't tell if I'm watering my tomatoes too much or not enough - the cherry tomatoes look great, but the big sized tomato plant looks pathetic. (BUT....I've gotten two nice sized tomatoes off the plant. One tomato had a really bad spot on it though). Can you help me please? How much water do I give these plants here in the HOT Carolinas? Thanks for your assistance!!!
A: I hope those plants are growing in pretty big pots because that will allow the roots to develop fully and hold enough soil so that it does not dry out so fast. During these hot weeks, expect to water these pots every day. Do this thoroughly so that water runs out the bottom of the pot. And because you are watering so often, fertilize more often than you would if the plants were in rich garden soil in the ground. All of these plants will suffer from inadequate watering. As far as the spot on the tomato, I can't quite tell from the information you gave. It could be blossom-emd rot, which is due to calcium deficiency. Uneven watering is one reason for this deficiency.
Submitted by Sarah from Waxhaw, NC
Q:I saw your response about Japanese beetles on knock-out roses, but what if they're eating my basil and I want to stay away from pesticides in my garden? Any other way to prevent them aside from manually removing them? Thanks!
A: The beetle season doesn't last too long. Why not try protecting your basil with a covering of lightweight mesh cloth? You could take it off after the beetles are gone in July.
Submitted by John from Harrisburg, NC
Q:Nancy, On the subject of Japanese beetles, you might want to point out to folks that many experts warn against using those "traps" that show up in stores at this time of year. A quick check of the internet will reveal a number of university studies that claim that the bait used in the traps only attract more beetles to your yard. There is a product called MilkySpore that supposedly works well, but it's expensive. Bayer has a tree and shrub product that claims to protect for 12 months... I've used this on my plum tree and it seemed to work well. Mainly though, the best defense seems to be early and aggressive spraying with Sevin, with reapplication after every rain. It's cut way down on our problems since we stopped using the traps.
A: I have discouraged people many times from using beetle traps for the reason you state. However, people still put them up. If you must use them, put them as far from the targeted crops,such as your rose bed or plum tree, as possible.
Submitted by Karen Cobb from Concord, NC
Q:Nancy, Please help educate homeowners to the benefits of honeybees in the garden. This is the time of year that bees will swarm to make a new colony. It's part of the natural reproductive cycle. I have a very successful small English garden hive and have been trying to educate my neighbors to the benefits of bees. Friday, the hive apparently swarmed. I came home from work to a panic striken neighbor who had sprayed a small swarm with hornet and wasp killer. Honey bees that are in a swarm are not aggressive because they have no hive to defend. Swarms may stay on a swarming site for as little as 15 minutes or for several days or more. It depends on the length of time it takes for the scouts to find a new hive. So when you see a swarm, keep in mind that they will not be on that site permanently. Spraying honey bee swarms with insecticide is not recommended for several reasons. First of all, even though the bees are not aggressive during swarming, you run the risk of getting stung if you try to spray them. Secondly, the bees are only going to be there for a short period of time, so spraying them will be a waste of your time. Third, if the swarm is reachable, the bees are valuable to a beekeeper. If a swarm is found before it locates a new home, a beekeeper can capture the swarm and start a new hive with the bees. The insecticide you spray is more of an environmental concern than the bees. And finally, we so deperately need bees to pollinate our gardens for flowers and our food-producing crops. N.C. University has helpful information on bees. Please help us beekeepers spread the word not to panic, but call an experienced beekeeper before you exterminate these gentle insects and we'll help. Thanks, Karen Cobb Concord, NC
A: I think this is interesting and a good lesson about taking care of bees in our midst.
Submitted by Bernadette from Charlotte, NC
Q:Where are the bees? My nandina, bee balm, clover and other plants have bloomed or are in bloom and no bees. In years past my flowering plants and shrubs had daily visits from bumble and honey bees. Last year the flowers were full of these insects. This year I have seen two honey bees on two separate days working the clover. What's up? Is this happening all over our area? Is it happening to farmers and others growing food locally? I've heard of hive collapse. Does this involve bumble bees too? To go from many insects to essentially zero in one year is disturbing. What suggestions do you have? Thanks, B
A: A lack of honeybees has been a serious problem in this country for more than a year and finding out why is a top priority of leaders in agriculture. The problem is called Colony Collapse Disorder. This problem fell on top of another one identified years ago which killed huge numbers of bees in hives and the wild. I received a thoughtful note about bees earlier and will post it now to encourage everyone to take care of the bees. I don't believe colony collapse disorder applies to bumble bees, just the honeybee.
Submitted by Linda from Charlotte, NC
Q:Hi Nancy, I managed to survive rabbits eating my black eyed susans last summer and the buds off my pansies last winter (blood meal, cayenne pepper and a fake owl staked in my perennial garden finally seemed to do the trick), but now some animal is digging up my vinca (periwinkle). It is doing it at night and has managed to dig down in the mulch and dig the plants up by the roots and leave them exposed. It has also dug vinca flowers out of 12 inch pots in the yard and out of a smaller pot on the stairs of my deck (so obviously it can climb and probably uses its front paws as hands for digging). I am thinking that this could possible be a raccoon (We have no pets and neighbors' cats occasionally roam our yard, but have caused no known damage; we leave no debris or trash in our yard). I purchased a product called Animal Repellent from WalMart that is supposed to repel deer, rabbits, dogs, cats, squirrels, raccoons, skunks and groundhogs. I sprinkled it around the periphery of my perennial garden and around the vinca plants, but it has not seemed to work, as this animal has crossed the barrier and has dug up the areas that were sprinkled. I could just pull up the vinca and repot them on my deck, but today I noticed that a young dahlia was also dug up and there was some digging around gladioli leaves that are emerging. I also noticed some digging around my hostas and impatients in another area. I would hate to lose all my perennials in the area where most of the digging has occurred. Because of the layout of the area backing up to my neighbor's yard and a stone edging, a fence will not work well. Any suggestions as to what this animal could be and how I can repel it from my yard?
A: I cannot identify the animal, but it is probably something looking for food, perhaps grubs or nuts. I suggest a net, such as the type used to protect fruit trees from birds. This should be needed only temporarily until whatever creature it is gives up and goes elsewhere. Soft soil around freshly planted annuals and perennials tends to attract such digging, especially squirrels in the fall.
Submitted by Vicki Evans from Charlotte, N.C.
Q:Nancy: I have an area on the side of my house that is about 5 ft. wide. It currently has three Helleri holies and many weeds. The area is bordered by the foundation of the house and a concrete walkway: it has a western exposure with no shade. My neighbor has two mature gum trees which spread numerous seedlings that I must vigilantly remove. Could you please suggest some small trees that would give us some relief from the sun and not add to my weeding and maintenance problems? I would be open to removing the hollies. I hope that you can give me some help with this.
A: That is a tight spot. I assume one side of the space is the wall of your house, so you need trees with a narrow canopy that would not eventually bump into the wall. A Japanese ligustrum is an evergreen that you could probably train to create a fluffy top that wouldn't get too wide and would give some shade. Japanese maples would look very nice and in scale to the space, but probably not create as much shade as you would like. A Chinese snowball viburnum is another small tree, deciduous in nature, that could do the job. It is beautiful in spring, but rather ordinary the rest of the year ubut it can be trained to a distinctive shape while young. When you replant, consider using landscape fabric under mulch to deter the tree seedlings. Water can seep through the fabric. The fabric is easy to cut so you can create space for plants to be set out.
Submitted by Janet from Spring, TX
Q:How do I keep spiders from building webs in my sago palm? Every other day I "clean out" the webs, but they keep coming back. Maybe there is something I can spray to keep them away for good?
A: Garden spiders are actually rated as beneficial creatures because they eat harmful insects. However, I can see that having to clear out webs so often is a nuisance. There are sprays (check labels) that work against flying spiders, but this will probably be only a temporary fix. Instead, try using a strong stream of water with the hose to blast away the webs and any sacks of eggs that have been left there.
Submitted by Charlotte Harkleroad from Piney Flats, TN 37686
Q:Why does the edge of the petals of my rose have brown on each petal? They have been so pretty this year except for the brown edges. Thought they might have been hit with the cold wind but buds have the brown when they come also. Thanks!
A: Your problem is thrips, and it is a pretty common problem on white and light-colored roses in early summer. These are a tiny insect, hard to see that feed on the petals. This leads to deformed flowers, the browning you describe and sometimes buds that fail to open. There are a number of insecticides that state on the label they work against thrips. It will require regular spraying. Be sure to cut off and get rid of any infected blooms.
Submitted by Richard from Charlotte,NC
Q:I have several Leyland cypress trees that are five years old and some of them are turning brown and dying. Is there anything I can do to save them? Is this occuring from the drought?
A: I don't think any plant has suffered more from the drought than the Leyland cypresses. The only thing I can suggest is to try to help the plants grow new foliage and recover by keeping them watered through the coming months, which once again could be very dry. I suggest a soaker hose placed under the mulch that you can use in the absence of rain. By autumn, if they do not look better, consider replacing them.
Submitted by Rita Simmons from Charlotte, NC
Q:I have two glorious rosemary shrubs that are 3 years old and they have grown to about 3 feet tall and wide. The problem is that the growth in lying down and exposing the center. I assume they need trimming - when and how? Thanks for all your help....
A: Rosemary plants come in both horizontal and vertical verieties. I suspect you have the type that naturally grows in a horizontal or prostrate form. This type is useful for sprawling over walls or serving as a ground cover, which appears to be what it is accomplishing now. You could try some tip pruning to see if that produces growth that will bulk up the center of the plants. But I don't think you can turn these plants into a vertical form.
Submitted by Shelia Pendleton from Gastonia NC
Q:Nancy, alot of my gardenia bush leaves are turning yellow.. could you tell me why? nutrient low ?? thank you. love your column !!!
A: I get this question from all directions this time of year. I wrote about various problems affecting gardenias in my column, Today in the Garden, in Saturday's Home and Garden section. Here's what I said about yellow leaves: --Yellow leaves. This is likely due to magnesium deficiency. It typically appears on the oldest leaves. Symptoms include yellowing of margins on oldest leaves, curling edges and yellowing between the veins of the leaves. .Fix this problem by improving production of chlorophyll and use of fertilizer components with the application of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). The Epsom Salt Council, an industry organization, recommends 1 tablespoon per nine square feet of root zone, applied every 2 to 4 weeks. Epsom salts are highly soluble and rainfall will work it into the roots. --Yellow leaves with visible green veins. This is iron deficiency, usually most evident on the youngest leaves, is easily corrected by the addition of chelated iron to spray on the foliage or over the root zone. More than one application is required. It stems from a high soil pH that prevents the plant from absorbing iron. --Yellow-green leaves that drop. A deficiency in nitrogen from inadequate fertilizer can lead to foliage that turns yellowish green, then drops prematurely in summer. This also stunts the growth of the plant. Look for veins or undersides of young leaves with reddish-purple cast. Correct this nutritional deficiency with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants such as Holly-Tone.
