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Most Recently Answered Questions
Questions 36 - 55 of 205 (Page 3 of 11)Submitted by Fred Caudill from Charlotte, NC
Q:1. I have a vegetable garden on a slightly declining patch about 6 ft by 20 ft (tomatoes, corn, peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins; also some zinnias and sunflowers). It receives a goodly amount of morning and afternoon sun. How often should I water this garden that is now at about 4-5 weeks and looking quite good (if I may say so myself)? 2. My front porch landscaping includes a row of 5 very well-established white azaleas fronted by a younger row of 5 purple azaleas. This year, for the first time ever, the white azaleas did not bloom except for three lonely blossoms on the most shaded of the bushes, whereas the purple ones did fine. They all look healthy. I fertilize twice per year in the spring (after blooms have faded) and fall, and watered 1-2 times per week last year during the drought. 3. You explained last year about the shortage of bees that likely accounted for our lack of fruit on the pumpkin vines. I intend to hand pollinate this year. Do I simply swab a Q-tip in a flower and then swab it in several others and repeat the process, mixing everything up? Should I do the same with the corn or any other plants? Thanks for your time. I hope you're paid extra for answering all these questions! Fred Caudill
A: 1. Water your vegetable garden, in the absence of rain, enough to give it 1 inch of water a week. How long that takes depends on the type of sprinkler you use. The best way to water a vegetable garden is with a soaker hose under the mulch. It doesn't waste water or wet the foliage. Wet foliage encourages diseases. 2. The azaleas are most likely suffering the effects of last year's late freeze and the drought that was intense last summer and autumn. Watered and fertilized this year, they should recover and look good next spring. Different types of azaleas, such as your two, reacted differently to the freeze and drought.
Submitted by Ellen from Harrisburg
Q:We bought and built our house in Harrisburg in 2005. When we moved in during July of that year, the shrubs that came with the builders package immediately in front of the house were alive and well. After that winter, three of them appeared to be dead, but the other nine were just fine. When we hired landscapers last spring to put in mulch and plant some new stuff, they confirmed that these shrubs were dead and planted new ones. During this past winter, those three new shrubs in the same spot died as well. Everything else has survived the drought just fine; even the plants that are exactly the same. Is this a dead spot on our land? How can I fix this so there isn't a spot devoid of plant life right in front of my house? I want to be able to accomplish this without calling yet another landscape company.
A: First, make sure this dead spot is not receiving a direct stream of water off the roof. Soggy soil, especially in winter, causes root rot. Second, once you take out the dead plants, create a hole, fill it with water and check the drainage. The soil should drain within 12 hours or so. If it doesn't dig deeper. You may find construction debris. Third. If neither of these are the problem, dig out that soil, get rid of it and replace it with soil you know to be healthy and good.
Submitted by diana cox from midland, nc
Q:I have a 10-foot camellia next to my house that i would like to move as it is now blocking a high traffic area. I do not want to lose it. It is in a mostly shaded area and blooms in late winter. Can you give me any tips on when and how to move this beautiful bush?
A: That is a big plant and a valuable one. My best advice is to spend the money to have it dug and moved this fall by a professional in the industry. It would be worth it because the root system is well developed. Professionals have the equipment and manpower to do this job right, including its replanting in a space where it will live and grow for many years.
Submitted by Paul Nowell from Charlotte, N.C.
Q:We have a large and beautiful mock orange plant that was attacked and defoliated by small brown caterpillars. The only thing we noticed (and ignored) was a swarm of black bugs a few weeks ago. We hope the plant will recover, but our biggest concern is our trees and other plants. We did use a pest killer and it appears to have gotten rid of the remaining caterpillars, but we don't feel assured. One person said them chinchbugs. But we want to make sure we are doing the right thing. Also, should we cut back the defoliated plant and do anything else for it, such as giving it fertilizer? It took a brutal hit and we need this plant for privacy. Thanks.
A: From this basic description, it is hard to identify the caterpillar that wrecked your mock orange. Now that the damage is done, you should concentrate on encouraging vigorous new growth on the plant through the summer. Use slow release organic fertilizer such as Plant-Tone and water the plant regularly in the absence of rain. Your objective is to stimulate new growth. It should leaf out and look good within a reasonable time. I do not think you have chinch bugs, which is mainly a pest of St. Augustine grass in warmer regions of the South. The caterpillar problem is likely over for this year on your mock orange. But keep watch for any new infestations this year and especially next spring. Spray with Bacillus thuringiensis, the organic caterpillar killer when you see them, or, if there are but a few, pick them off by hand.
Submitted by Kenneth James from Statesville, NC
Q:When moving plants from starter containers to permanent ones I have been using packaged garden soil. Should I use potting soil instead? What time of year should I divide daylilies? Thanks.
A: I think containers require the best soil possible to maximum root development and moisture retention. I would opt for that instead of the garden soil, which may be a bit denser and not contain ingredients that will help retain moisture. Divide daylilies after their bloom season in mid to late summer.
Submitted by Joan from Charlotte, NC
Q:My peonies are flowering very well but seem to be overcrowding each other. Should they be thinned out and replanted elsewhere? When would be the best time to do this?
A: As long as your peonies are blooming well, I would do nothing but enjoy them. These plants bloom best when they are mature and well-established. The time to dig and replant is when blooms get fewer, which is typically a long time. Do not worry that the stems and leaves are bumping into each other. That probably creates a very full effect in your flowerbed. Once bloom declines, dig, divide and replant in the fall. Nce
Submitted by Amy from Weddington
Q:My front and side yard are full sun. Is there an evergreen flowering shrub I can plant?
A: You have many choices, and what you pick should depend on the size of the space. I don't know whether you are looking for tall or short, wide or skinny plants. However, to get you thinking about this here are some possibilities: Low-growing, under about 4 feet: dwarf boxwood, dwarf hinoki false cypress, dwarf gardenias, Helleri and other dwarf hollies. Medium: around 6 feet: Edward Goucher abelia, wintergreen barberry, dwarf Burford holly, gardenia, Compacta holly and Schip or Zabel laurels. Tall: over 6 feet and often much more: Most camellias, indica azaleas, Burford,lusterleaf and many more hollies. This is just a start. Pick wisely because these plants will be with you a long time and could be the best part of your landscape.
Submitted by Susan from Belmont, NC
Q:Can I do anything now or over the next several months to prevent Japanese beetles from devouring my Knock Out roses?
A: There have already been sightings of Japanese beetles, a friend told me Thursday evening. So let's get ready. There are products such as Sevin that you can spray on your rose to kill the beetles as they feed on the flowers and foliage. Read the labels of insecticides and make sure it works against Japanese beetles. It seems that the more beetles you have, the more you have. If possible, try to reduce the number of beetles early in the day by knocking them into a bucket of soapy water. You won't get them all, but you will get some, and that could disrupt their presence and feeding for the day and draw fewer. They are pretty sluggish while sitting on leaves and blooms.
Submitted by Martha Swander from Charlotte, NC
Q:Hi, Nancy! My witch hazel tree planted in the fall of 2006 bloomed profusely during the winter of 2007. I tried to keep it watered during the summer. This year, not one bloom. However, the tree looks healthy and has leafed out nicely. Any advice? Thank you. Sincerely, Martha Swander
A: I am prepared to blame the lack of flowers last winter on the drought. It may seem like an easy target, but witch hazels do prefer evenly moist soil that is on the acid side. There was little of this in the Piedmont during the growing season last year, the drought is the probable cause. It also requires full sun to partial shade. Check the quality of the sun on your plant and make sure the root ball was not set deeper than it originally grew in the container. If the plant is too deep, that could inhibit bloom, but I think the drought is more likely to be the source of the problem.
Submitted by Mary Watts from Taylorsville
Q:How do I get information from the Saturday, May 3, "Today's Bloggers" website on the best way to prune rhododendrons? I am very interested in this but was unable to locate the information after the 3rd. Thanks for the help. I have always enjoyed your column and find it very helpful.
A: The item on pruning rhododendrons is there on my list of questions and answers. It is about 10 questions from the top. Hope you find it helpful.
Submitted by Gloria from Charlotte, NC
Q:Should you let tulip stems die back like daffodils before you cut them back? And how dried and yellowed should daffodils be before cutting them. Thanks for your help.
A: The tulip stems will not last as long as the tulip leaves. But both should be allowed to mature to yellow. How yellow? Just look for the final loss of green color in the leaves. That will be before they turn brown and look dry.
Submitted by Pat from Shallotte, NC
Q:I have two: My dwarf yaupon holly have spider webs on top and I notice a browning of some of the leaves...what can I do? I received a Sago Palm and have not knowledge or experience with them. For the time being I may just use a container, however, I am planning a bed out in front of my house and have thought about using several as a backdrop with knock out roses in front of that and then perennials and/or annuals in front of that. The area is approximately 15 feet deep. Would the palms grown too tall for that kind of planting? Thank you very much...this is the first time I have logged on to the Charlotte Observer and seen your column!
A: The spider webs did not cause the browning you see. Garden spiders feed on insects and such things, not plants. If the webs seem unattractive to you, you can brush them off with a broom or rake, but these spiders are beneficial insects you may not want to disturb. The sago palm is a fine plant for this area and remarkably hardy. I kept one in a pot outside over winter a few years, but I think it does better if planted in the ground in a warm, sunny spot. It is quite pretty and could eventually get to an impressive size, but not tall enough for the background plant you describe. Give it a spot toward the front of this flower bed.
Submitted by Kathy from Gastonia, NC
Q:This year my azaleas are blooming very well. But I have noticed that their leaves are turning to yellowish brown and dropped on the ground. What should I do? Can I still trim my azaleas now?
A: Prune your azaleas now and remove all the cuttings because they may be infested with azalea lacebugs. Then look over the plants for further evidence of your problem, which could be mites or lacebug, both of which suck plant juices and cause leaf discoloration, and dropping. Check for mites by drawing a white paper or tissue over the leaves (you can use the prunings for this). The presence of mites should show up as red streaks on the paper. Check for lacebugs by looking at the undersides of leaves for shiny black spots. It is a sort of fly-specked look. Once you determine which problem you have, get the product that states on the label it works against that insect or mite. Insecticidal soap is helpful, but not a perfect remedy against both. If neither problem is evident from your inspection, it could simply be natural loss of the oldest leaves or the stress of a diffcult year in 2007.
Submitted by Mary Beth Allen from
Q:Nancy, This is such a basic question that I'm almost embarrassed to ask it. Are we too close to the summer to plant new shrubs and trees? Is it better to wait until the fall before making a major investment in plantings? Several landscapers have told me that it's not too late but I'm concerned that their opinion may be self-serving. Can you set me straight? Thanks. Mary Beth
A: Given the kind of summers we've had in recent years, hot and dry, I would wait until autumn to do this work. Though we have had rain this winter and spring, there is no promise it will continue at a decent rate through summer. If you have the work done, be sure to put down a soaker hose under the mulch to water the plants in dry weeks.
Submitted by deb from charlotte, nc
Q:I have a number of lovely bearded iris that have outgrown their home and I want to move them to another location where they can continue to spread. They just finished blooming. Can I move them now and how is the best way to do this? thanks much. I have been reading your column for 14 years and trust your direction!
A: It would be better to dig and divide those bearded iris plants starting about midsummer, around 6 to 8 weeks after the blooming ends. That's the first general rule. The second is don't do this when it is terribly hot, and of course July is usually terribly hot, meaning 90 degrees and up. You can wait until cooler weather in August or September, but the thing is to get the plants replanted and growing by at least two months before freezing weather. The down side of all this is there are likely to be fewer blooms next spring, but in the long run your irises will benefit from division and replanting of the rhizomes. Good luck
Submitted by J. Gardner from Charlotte,N.C.
Q:My pieones put out beautiful fat buds, however they never open because of a big round black spot in the center of the bud . What do they need?
A: Your peonies are affected by a fungus called botrytis that is very common here, because the rainfall and temperature are right for its development as the new foliage rises and buds develop in spring. Clean up your peony bed well next fall, removing all foliage. When the new growth appears, spray regularly with a fungicide containing mancozeb. That should help this problem a lot.
Submitted by Don Nordmark from Lake Wylie, SC
Q:Todays Observer (Sat, 4/26) referenced TODAYS BLOGGERS to find info for "water soaker hoses". I could not find anything on the subject. Perhaps you can assist (?).
A: Sorry about the problem with that reference line. It sent you to the wrong place. Here is the info I think you are looking for, which was in my column in the newspaper April 19: Q. Since soaker hoses are allowed under watering restrictions, I am placing them all around my flower beds and shrubs under the mulch. How long should I let them run? It depends on water pressure and the soil. Loose soil that has been lightened with compost will absorb water quickly and hold it without getting soggy. With the soaker or seeper hoses in place under mulch, turn on the water and let it run for 15 minutes. Then stick a trowel into the soil and push it forward slightly to see how deep the water seeped. Run the water for another 15 minutes and test again. Keep in mind, you want the water to seep slowly into the root zone of these plants and not create puddles and runoff. Shrubs, of course, have deeper roots than do most annuals and perennials. You'll probably need to run the soakers for about 30 minutes, possibly 45, to get moisture at least 6 inches deep. Absent rainfall, it should be sufficient to do this once a week this spring, perhaps twice a week, once it gets hot and if rain diminishes.
Submitted by Clara McCann from Lincolnton, N. C.
Q:Nancy, I wish to feed my azaleas (soon as the blooms fade) with Cotton Seed Meal. I asked for it big stores and they don't even know what I am talking about? Where can I find same? Thanks.
A: Cottonseed meal is still sold. Look for it in hardware stores, feed stores and independent garden centers. Besides cottonseed meal you can try one of the azalea fertilizers that are specially formulated. Cottonseed meal has always been a favorite with many gardeners because it keeps the soil on the acid side and is a slow release product.
Submitted by Leslie Dillingham from Charlotte, NC
Q:Nancy - I always look forward to your column and learn something every time I read. I save many of your articles and one included a "recipe" for an organic spray originated by the late Ray Tobias which includes cayenne pepper, garlic, dish liquid and pepper and salt. This year is my first attempt at a small organic garden and I plan to use this spray. My question is 2-fold: Have you used this spray with much success and what should my expectations be. Also, is there risk that my plants may taste like the spray after having been exposed to it for the the whole growing period? I'm growing tomatoes, pole beans an cucumbers, all started from organic seed. Thank you so much!
A: The scent of that recipe does not transfer to the vegetables you will harvest. It simply repels the insects, such as aphids. You should not plan to use it constantly, but when you see the insects. If anyone else is interested, I'll look up the recipe in the archive and post it here. Remember, your fingers are a good way to pick off larger insects such as caterpillars and a strong spray of water will dislodge clusters of insects such as aphids. Glad to know you are going organic with your food crops.
Submitted by jean mcclure from charlotte
Q: I HAVE DAFFODILS FROM MY GRANDFATHER'S ROCK GARDEN ..I MOVED THEM FROM HIS HOME AND TO MY MOTHER'S HOME AND TO MY HOME AND THEY HAVE BEEN THERE FOR 35 YEARS SO THE ATTACHMENT IS STRONG. WE ARE REDOING OUR YARD AND I HAVE DUG UP THE DAFFODILS. I REALIZED THE GREEN TOPS WERE NOT DRY AND THEY PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE BEEN..I WANT TO REPLANT THEM BUT SINCE THE LEAVES ARE STILL ON I DON'T REMEMBER WHAT TO DO UNTIL THE YARD IS READY TO REPLANT IN THE FALL...I KNOW YOU WILL HAVE THE SUGGESTION...THANKS JEAN MCCLURE
A: The green leaves still on the plant will turn yellow very soon. Just cut them off, clean up the bulbs and store them in an onion bag or cardboard box with a bit of straw or something similar through the summer. Keep them in a cool, dry place. Look over them occasionally to make sure no rot is setting in. Replant in fall. Fertilize with a bulb fertilizer. No amount of trouble is too much for heirloom bulbs like yours. But I doubt you will get flowers next spring, but you will get leaves. They will require a year to recover. Let us know how it goes.
