Sweet Dreams Mattress, Inc.
Most Recently Answered Questions
Questions 1 - 15 of 205 (Page 1 of 11)Submitted by Beverly Carter from Mooresville, NC
Q:We have boxwoods lining the walkway to our home. A few days ago, I noticed a slight browning on one side of one plant. By the next day, the entire side, across the top and the back side of the plant were brown. We live in a rural area, wildlife abounds. Could this be a critter problem or is it a disease of some sort? Do you have any suggestions? Really would hate to loose this plant as it is 13 years old and was in prestine condition. Thanks for any help you can offer.
A: It could be an insect problem or a root problem, I cannot tell from this distance. These are valuable plants that are worth an evaluation by a professional to halt and cure the problem.
Submitted by Helen Wall from Charlotte, NC
Q:I have several Gerber daisies with great foliage, but no flowers. Can you help me?
A: Gerber daisies tend to stop blooming in hot weather, Take care of yours and you might see new blooms this autumn.
Submitted by D. Payne from N. Wilkesboro NC
Q:I have a small garden and it does fine, still, it seems that every thing I plant grows tall and spindly. Any ideas why?
A: Tall spindly plants tend to result when there is inadequate light to support good growth. It also occurs when plants are set too closely together, another obstruction to light.
Submitted by Phyllis Gillikin from Lincolnton, NC
Q:Should mondo grass be cut back in early spring/late winter, like liriope? One of my gardening books says not necessary, but I've read somewhere else that it should be. Mine is 3 years old, spreading nicely,never cut back, but looking less than wonderful -- some yellowed leaves etc. Will the big clumps put out a full clump of new leaves if I cut it back in early March? Thank you for your advice. Phyllis Gillikin
A: Mondo grass does not grow as rapidly as does monkey grass. Let your decision about late winter pruning be determined by the state of the grass. Is it weather beaten? Does it seem crowded? Were the leaves hurt by foot traffic. Mature plants should replenish their foliage well in the spring.
Submitted by Ken Hock from Whitehall Pa
Q:Nancy, My wife has a great garden of perennials in our front yard that attracts Hummingbirds. She has bee balms and lilies that were gorgeous. Should she cut these back to the ground now that there done or just let them Go Thanks
A: Don't do any cutting back now. The lily foliage will wither naturally and then you can cut it off. The bee balm should be allowed to keep growing through the autumn then trimmed back when you do the garden cleanup in November or December.
Submitted by Caroline Greer from Spartanburg, SC
Q:I have a Butterfly yellow magnolia that was heavily damaged by the late freeze two years ago.Most of the tree is dead but now there is new growth coming from the bottom. If we cut out all the dead wood will the new growth develop into a nice tree? I always enjoy your column and look for it. Thanks. Caroline Greer
A: Since the live and dead wood are apparent, you should proceed with removing the dead. I hope the live wood emerged all arouund the trunk so that the new shape will be nice. You may have to do some shaping and trimming over the next few years, but I think this will be worth doing and hope you get a nice new look to this damaged tree. Thanks for not giving up on it.
Submitted by chris from charlotte
Q:what the best way to get rid of whiteflies, on my vegtables.
A: Whiteflies are hard to control. Remove the most severely infected leaves. Spray the undersides of leaves with a strong spray of water to dislodge some of the adults. Spray with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Look for yellow sticky cards created especially to trap flying insects.
Submitted by Jane Hale from Marshville, NC
Q:Our garden is old and worn out...its time for compost or whatever, I think. We have access to several loads of pine shavings removed from a chicken house, with only a small amount of chicken 'litter. What is your opinion on using this?
A: I think that might make a good start to improving your garden soil. However, compost would be better as it has more nutritional value. The pine shavings will help improve the texture and drainage of your soil. The manure will also help. Then do a soil test. Get the soil test documents from your county agent. The results will tell you want else is needed, most probably lime. A good dose of compost will improve the nutritional state of your soil. The soil test will be your best guide on what is needed to improve your soil.
Submitted by denise fenimore from charlotte, n.c.
Q:I need to divide and move irises in my garden. I have always heard that August was the correct month to move them. Is this also true for the Charlotte area? Any special tips? Thanks!, D.
A: You can do this work now. Just be sure to reset the rhizomes of bearded irises horizontally so that the top of the rhizome gets some sun. That encourages better growth and bloom.
Submitted by Tucker Viccellio from Stallings, NC
Q:Several weeks ago you wrote a column on what to do when gardenia leaves turn yellow and drop off. You gave three examples of what to look for and appropriate solutions. I've lost the article and would love to see it again. Could you please send it to me. Thank you, Tucker Viccellio
A: Gardenias always bring a lot of quesions in summer. Here's what I wrote in the paper in early June: Gardenias dazzle with their beautiful, fragrant flowers. But they also disappoint when insects set in and foliage develops odd colors. As the season opens, here's what to watch for and how to deal with common problems. White flies. This common sucking insect is obvious when clouds of tiny white specks of adult white flies erupt off the plant. You'll see eggs and nymphs on the undersides of leaves. They excrete a sticky substance that leads to a black sooty mold on the tops of leaves. A horticultural oil such as All Seasons Spray Oil, or one of the summer oils specifically formulated for use in warm weather will help, but you must spray the undersides of leaves carefully. Repeat as directed on the label. Yellow leaves. This is likely due to magnesium deficiency. It typically appears on the oldest leaves. Symptoms include yellowing of margins on oldest leaves, curling edges and yellowing between the veins of the leaves. Fix this problem by improving production of chlorophyll and use of fertilizer components with the application of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). The Epsom Salt Council, an industry organization, recommends 1 tablespoon per 9 square feet of root zone, applied every two to four weeks. Epsom salts are highly soluble and rainfall will work it into the roots. Yellow leaves with visible green veins. This is iron deficiency, usually most evident on the youngest leaves, and is easily corrected by the addition of chelated iron to spray on the foliage or over the root zone. More than one application is required. It stems from a high soil pH that prevents the plant from absorbing iron. Yellow-green leaves that drop. A deficiency in nitrogen from inadequate fertilizer can lead to foliage that turns yellowish green, then drops prematurely in summer. This also stunts the growth of the plant. Look for veins or undersides of young leaves with reddish-purple cast. Correct this nutritional deficiency with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants such as Holly-Tone. Overgrown plants. Gardenias surprise people with the size they attain — rather rapidly. The best time to prune gardenias is immediately after the main flush of bloom in early summer. When a plant needs only modest shaping, do this by cutting flowers for the house. Make your cut just above a lateral branch or bud lower on the stem. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Submitted by Paula Murphy from Grand Rapids, Michigan
Q:What can I do to prevent rabbits from eating the buds of my black-eyed susans? They are also eating parts of the plant? Thanks.
A: There is a product called Dog and Rabbit chaser and variations on that which will repel rabbits and other animals with sensitive noses, but it has to be reapplied after rainfall. You just sprinkle it around the plants. I would start with this.
Submitted by Heidi from Charlotte, NC
Q:Just planted coreopsis, purple coneflower and sedum. The coreopsis seems fine, but the sedum and coneflower both seem to be deteriorating though I have watered well. I am seeing small oval greyish brown bugs in the soil around their bases. Thought they were slugs (even though they move around) and put saucers of beer out. This has not really attracted them, only ants and hope the chippies, squirrels and birds aren't drinking it! Any ideas? Thank you, love your column, so helpful and interesting.
A: Planting in July is stressful for perennials, even rugged ones like purple coneflower and sedum. Give them time. You may be overwatering the sedum, which is a succulent whose leaves hold water. Ease off a bit there. Don't expect much new growth this summer but the roots should develop nicely through the autumn and next spring. I planted purple coneflowers (bought in the August sale) last summer. It suffered a lot in the dry summer and autumn weeks but bounced back nicely and has bloomed this summer. Don't give up. Ay in
Submitted by Janine from Concord, NC
Q:I am a novice gardener. I planted black eyed susans for the 1st time this year, and they are starting to bloom. Something is eating the petals off of them. I haven't seen any bugs on them, except for a green flying bug that I shooed away. I've got a lot more that are getting ready to bloom and I don't want them eaten as soon as they bloom. What should I do?
A: It could be slugs feeding on the tender petals. I suggest you put out a shallow saucer of beer and see if that attracts any slugs. If so you can continue to use the beer trap or use one of the commercial slug baits. Was the green flying bug (a dark metallic green) a Japanese beetle? If so, they are pretty much gone by now. If it is not a slug problem, consider spraying the plants with a garden insecticide that will kill chewing insects.
Submitted by Frances Campbell from Charlotte
Q:Another gardenia question!! I have two large gardenias which bloomed profusely this summer. For the second year in a row, they are infested with white flies. I've used horticultural oil, but getting to the undersides of the leaves on a large plant is difficult, and the directions emphasize that. I have just given them a drastic pruning since they were getting to large for the space, and I will spray them well. Should I remove and replace the mulch around them? Is there anything other than horticultural oil for this pest? I love the flowers, but hate the white flies!! Many thanks and I love your column. Frances Campbell
A: There are systemic insecticides that the plant's system absorbs and kills the insect as it feeds on the plant. Check labels and make sure white flies are listed as a target insect for the product. I do not think it is necessary to change the mulch for this problem.
Submitted by Judy from Rutherfordton, NC
Q:My sister gave me several Sago palms, all are doing great except for the largest, the fronds are curling up. Is this normal or do I have a problem and if I do what can I do to correct it? Thanks you, and love your column. Judy
A: Check for insects on the undersides of fronds. Aphids can cause leaves to curl. Absent insects, if the leaves look healthy and green and get good sunshine. I would not worry about it. My Sago, which I believed showed no signs of life, just put up a new circle of fronds in mid-July. I could hardly believe my eyes.
