Nancy Brachey has written about gardening for The Charlotte
Observer since 1976. Her question and answer columns called Ask Nancy also
appear Thursdays and Saturdays in the newspaper. Reach her at (704)
358-5224 or email asknancy@earthlink.net.
Submitted by Carolyn from Charlotte,NC
Q: I am fighting black spot on ornamental, wild and even the new "disease resistant" roses. I pick off the diseased leaves and dispose of them. What else do you recommend?
Answered 07/04/08 18:27:26 by Nancy Brachey
A: Since you have a serious infestation of black spot more actionis required than picking off leaves. You must begin spraying the plants with a fungicide that states on the label it works against black spot. Also, look at the ground or mulch under the plants. They may have fallen, diseased leaves that are a ready source of fungus to reinfect the plants. If a lot of leaves are there, clean off the mulch and replace it with clean pine needles. Consider your watering practices. Are you wetting the foliage when you water the plants? Try to avoid that by putting your hose at the base of the plant.Submitted by brenda from Taylorsville N.C.
Q: One of my dwarf crepe myrtles was frozen in the BIG EASTER FREEZE but there are signs of life coming out from the bottom of the tree.Should the original trunk,which looks dead,be cut off or left alone
Answered 06/27/08 23:02:54 by Nancy Brachey
A: If the original trunk is dead, cut it off to the base of the plan. Then choose the most vigorous looking shoots rising from the ground. You should have three to five of these, evenly distributed around the plant. Make these stems the foundation of the new crape myrtle. Cut off the weaker ones, especially if they bump into or cross the ones already selected to form the framework of the tree. You want to create a multi-trunk plant.Submitted by Yankeebrat13 from Charlotte, NC
Q: I grew up on a farm in Ohio and we always had a garden. This year I decided to take a shot at planting some veggies in pots and place them out on my deck. I've never grown plants in a pot - so I'm really not sure how much to water them. I have zucchini, squash, Cherry and Better Bush tomatoes, cucumbers, and sweet green and red peppers. I can't tell if I'm watering my tomatoes too much or not enough - the cherry tomatoes look great, but the big sized tomato plant looks pathetic. (BUT....I've gotten two nice sized tomatoes off the plant. One tomato had a really bad spot on it though). Can you help me please? How much water do I give these plants here in the HOT Carolinas? Thanks for your assistance!!!
Answered 06/27/08 22:55:24 by Nancy Brachey
A: I hope those plants are growing in pretty big pots because that will allow the roots to develop fully and hold enough soil so that it does not dry out so fast. During these hot weeks, expect to water these pots every day. Do this thoroughly so that water runs out the bottom of the pot. And because you are watering so often, fertilize more often than you would if the plants were in rich garden soil in the ground. All of these plants will suffer from inadequate watering. As far as the spot on the tomato, I can't quite tell from the information you gave. It could be blossom-emd rot, which is due to calcium deficiency. Uneven watering is one reason for this deficiency.Submitted by Sarah from Waxhaw, NC
Q: I saw your response about Japanese beetles on knock-out roses, but what if they're eating my basil and I want to stay away from pesticides in my garden? Any other way to prevent them aside from manually removing them? Thanks!
Answered 06/20/08 22:56:26 by Nancy Brachey
A: The beetle season doesn't last too long. Why not try protecting your basil with a covering of lightweight mesh cloth? You could take it off after the beetles are gone in July.Submitted by John from Harrisburg, NC
Q: Nancy, On the subject of Japanese beetles, you might want to point out to folks that many experts warn against using those "traps" that show up in stores at this time of year. A quick check of the internet will reveal a number of university studies that claim that the bait used in the traps only attract more beetles to your yard. There is a product called MilkySpore that supposedly works well, but it's expensive. Bayer has a tree and shrub product that claims to protect for 12 months... I've used this on my plum tree and it seemed to work well. Mainly though, the best defense seems to be early and aggressive spraying with Sevin, with reapplication after every rain. It's cut way down on our problems since we stopped using the traps.
Answered 06/20/08 22:54:59 by Nancy Brachey
A: I have discouraged people many times from using beetle traps for the reason you state. However, people still put them up. If you must use them, put them as far from the targeted crops,such as your rose bed or plum tree, as possible.Submitted by Karen Cobb from Concord, NC
Q: Nancy, Please help educate homeowners to the benefits of honeybees in the garden. This is the time of year that bees will swarm to make a new colony. It's part of the natural reproductive cycle. I have a very successful small English garden hive and have been trying to educate my neighbors to the benefits of bees. Friday, the hive apparently swarmed. I came home from work to a panic striken neighbor who had sprayed a small swarm with hornet and wasp killer. Honey bees that are in a swarm are not aggressive because they have no hive to defend. Swarms may stay on a swarming site for as little as 15 minutes or for several days or more. It depends on the length of time it takes for the scouts to find a new hive. So when you see a swarm, keep in mind that they will not be on that site permanently. Spraying honey bee swarms with insecticide is not recommended for several reasons. First of all, even though the bees are not aggressive during swarming, you run the risk of getting stung if you try to spray them. Secondly, the bees are only going to be there for a short period of time, so spraying them will be a waste of your time. Third, if the swarm is reachable, the bees are valuable to a beekeeper. If a swarm is found before it locates a new home, a beekeeper can capture the swarm and start a new hive with the bees. The insecticide you spray is more of an environmental concern than the bees. And finally, we so deperately need bees to pollinate our gardens for flowers and our food-producing crops. N.C. University has helpful information on bees. Please help us beekeepers spread the word not to panic, but call an experienced beekeeper before you exterminate these gentle insects and we'll help. Thanks, Karen Cobb Concord, NC
Answered 06/20/08 22:52:20 by Nancy Brachey
A: I think this is interesting and a good lesson about taking care of bees in our midst.Submitted by Bernadette from Charlotte, NC
Q: Where are the bees? My nandina, bee balm, clover and other plants have bloomed or are in bloom and no bees. In years past my flowering plants and shrubs had daily visits from bumble and honey bees. Last year the flowers were full of these insects. This year I have seen two honey bees on two separate days working the clover. What's up? Is this happening all over our area? Is it happening to farmers and others growing food locally? I've heard of hive collapse. Does this involve bumble bees too? To go from many insects to essentially zero in one year is disturbing. What suggestions do you have? Thanks, B
Answered 06/20/08 22:49:46 by Nancy Brachey
A: A lack of honeybees has been a serious problem in this country for more than a year and finding out why is a top priority of leaders in agriculture. The problem is called Colony Collapse Disorder. This problem fell on top of another one identified years ago which killed huge numbers of bees in hives and the wild. I received a thoughtful note about bees earlier and will post it now to encourage everyone to take care of the bees. I don't believe colony collapse disorder applies to bumble bees, just the honeybee.Submitted by Linda from Charlotte, NC
Q: Hi Nancy, I managed to survive rabbits eating my black eyed susans last summer and the buds off my pansies last winter (blood meal, cayenne pepper and a fake owl staked in my perennial garden finally seemed to do the trick), but now some animal is digging up my vinca (periwinkle). It is doing it at night and has managed to dig down in the mulch and dig the plants up by the roots and leave them exposed. It has also dug vinca flowers out of 12 inch pots in the yard and out of a smaller pot on the stairs of my deck (so obviously it can climb and probably uses its front paws as hands for digging). I am thinking that this could possible be a raccoon (We have no pets and neighbors' cats occasionally roam our yard, but have caused no known damage; we leave no debris or trash in our yard). I purchased a product called Animal Repellent from WalMart that is supposed to repel deer, rabbits, dogs, cats, squirrels, raccoons, skunks and groundhogs. I sprinkled it around the periphery of my perennial garden and around the vinca plants, but it has not seemed to work, as this animal has crossed the barrier and has dug up the areas that were sprinkled. I could just pull up the vinca and repot them on my deck, but today I noticed that a young dahlia was also dug up and there was some digging around gladioli leaves that are emerging. I also noticed some digging around my hostas and impatients in another area. I would hate to lose all my perennials in the area where most of the digging has occurred. Because of the layout of the area backing up to my neighbor's yard and a stone edging, a fence will not work well. Any suggestions as to what this animal could be and how I can repel it from my yard?
Answered 06/13/08 22:34:00 by Nancy Brachey
A: I cannot identify the animal, but it is probably something looking for food, perhaps grubs or nuts. I suggest a net, such as the type used to protect fruit trees from birds. This should be needed only temporarily until whatever creature it is gives up and goes elsewhere. Soft soil around freshly planted annuals and perennials tends to attract such digging, especially squirrels in the fall.Submitted by Vicki Evans from Charlotte, N.C.
Q: Nancy: I have an area on the side of my house that is about 5 ft. wide. It currently has three Helleri holies and many weeds. The area is bordered by the foundation of the house and a concrete walkway: it has a western exposure with no shade. My neighbor has two mature gum trees which spread numerous seedlings that I must vigilantly remove. Could you please suggest some small trees that would give us some relief from the sun and not add to my weeding and maintenance problems? I would be open to removing the hollies. I hope that you can give me some help with this.
Answered 06/13/08 22:28:10 by Nancy Brachey
A: That is a tight spot. I assume one side of the space is the wall of your house, so you need trees with a narrow canopy that would not eventually bump into the wall. A Japanese ligustrum is an evergreen that you could probably train to create a fluffy top that wouldn't get too wide and would give some shade. Japanese maples would look very nice and in scale to the space, but probably not create as much shade as you would like. A Chinese snowball viburnum is another small tree, deciduous in nature, that could do the job. It is beautiful in spring, but rather ordinary the rest of the year ubut it can be trained to a distinctive shape while young. When you replant, consider using landscape fabric under mulch to deter the tree seedlings. Water can seep through the fabric. The fabric is easy to cut so you can create space for plants to be set out.Submitted by Janet from Spring, TX
Q: How do I keep spiders from building webs in my sago palm? Every other day I "clean out" the webs, but they keep coming back. Maybe there is something I can spray to keep them away for good?
Answered 06/13/08 22:05:38 by Nancy Brachey
A: Garden spiders are actually rated as beneficial creatures because they eat harmful insects. However, I can see that having to clear out webs so often is a nuisance. There are sprays (check labels) that work against flying spiders, but this will probably be only a temporary fix. Instead, try using a strong stream of water with the hose to blast away the webs and any sacks of eggs that have been left there.Submitted by Charlotte Harkleroad from Piney Flats, TN 37686
Q: Why does the edge of the petals of my rose have brown on each petal? They have been so pretty this year except for the brown edges. Thought they might have been hit with the cold wind but buds have the brown when they come also. Thanks!
Answered 06/06/08 21:30:21 by Nancy Brachey
A: Your problem is thrips, and it is a pretty common problem on white and light-colored roses in early summer. These are a tiny insect, hard to see that feed on the petals. This leads to deformed flowers, the browning you describe and sometimes buds that fail to open. There are a number of insecticides that state on the label they work against thrips. It will require regular spraying. Be sure to cut off and get rid of any infected blooms.Submitted by Richard from Charlotte,NC
Q: I have several Leyland cypress trees that are five years old and some of them are turning brown and dying. Is there anything I can do to save them? Is this occuring from the drought?
Answered 06/06/08 21:10:56 by Nancy Brachey
A: I don't think any plant has suffered more from the drought than the Leyland cypresses. The only thing I can suggest is to try to help the plants grow new foliage and recover by keeping them watered through the coming months, which once again could be very dry. I suggest a soaker hose placed under the mulch that you can use in the absence of rain. By autumn, if they do not look better, consider replacing them.Submitted by Rita Simmons from Charlotte, NC
Q: I have two glorious rosemary shrubs that are 3 years old and they have grown to about 3 feet tall and wide. The problem is that the growth in lying down and exposing the center. I assume they need trimming - when and how? Thanks for all your help....
Answered 06/06/08 21:07:41 by Nancy Brachey
A: Rosemary plants come in both horizontal and vertical verieties. I suspect you have the type that naturally grows in a horizontal or prostrate form. This type is useful for sprawling over walls or serving as a ground cover, which appears to be what it is accomplishing now. You could try some tip pruning to see if that produces growth that will bulk up the center of the plants. But I don't think you can turn these plants into a vertical form.Submitted by Shelia Pendleton from Gastonia NC
Q: Nancy, alot of my gardenia bush leaves are turning yellow.. could you tell me why? nutrient low ?? thank you. love your column !!!
Answered 06/06/08 21:01:49 by Nancy Brachey
A: I get this question from all directions this time of year. I wrote about various problems affecting gardenias in my column, Today in the Garden, in Saturday's Home and Garden section. Here's what I said about yellow leaves: --Yellow leaves. This is likely due to magnesium deficiency. It typically appears on the oldest leaves. Symptoms include yellowing of margins on oldest leaves, curling edges and yellowing between the veins of the leaves. .Fix this problem by improving production of chlorophyll and use of fertilizer components with the application of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). The Epsom Salt Council, an industry organization, recommends 1 tablespoon per nine square feet of root zone, applied every 2 to 4 weeks. Epsom salts are highly soluble and rainfall will work it into the roots. --Yellow leaves with visible green veins. This is iron deficiency, usually most evident on the youngest leaves, is easily corrected by the addition of chelated iron to spray on the foliage or over the root zone. More than one application is required. It stems from a high soil pH that prevents the plant from absorbing iron. --Yellow-green leaves that drop. A deficiency in nitrogen from inadequate fertilizer can lead to foliage that turns yellowish green, then drops prematurely in summer. This also stunts the growth of the plant. Look for veins or undersides of young leaves with reddish-purple cast. Correct this nutritional deficiency with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants such as Holly-Tone.Submitted by Fred Caudill from Charlotte, NC
Q: 1. I have a vegetable garden on a slightly declining patch about 6 ft by 20 ft (tomatoes, corn, peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins; also some zinnias and sunflowers). It receives a goodly amount of morning and afternoon sun. How often should I water this garden that is now at about 4-5 weeks and looking quite good (if I may say so myself)? 2. My front porch landscaping includes a row of 5 very well-established white azaleas fronted by a younger row of 5 purple azaleas. This year, for the first time ever, the white azaleas did not bloom except for three lonely blossoms on the most shaded of the bushes, whereas the purple ones did fine. They all look healthy. I fertilize twice per year in the spring (after blooms have faded) and fall, and watered 1-2 times per week last year during the drought. 3. You explained last year about the shortage of bees that likely accounted for our lack of fruit on the pumpkin vines. I intend to hand pollinate this year. Do I simply swab a Q-tip in a flower and then swab it in several others and repeat the process, mixing everything up? Should I do the same with the corn or any other plants? Thanks for your time. I hope you're paid extra for answering all these questions! Fred Caudill
Answered 05/30/08 19:32:00 by Nancy Brachey
A: 1. Water your vegetable garden, in the absence of rain, enough to give it 1 inch of water a week. How long that takes depends on the type of sprinkler you use. The best way to water a vegetable garden is with a soaker hose under the mulch. It doesn't waste water or wet the foliage. Wet foliage encourages diseases. 2. The azaleas are most likely suffering the effects of last year's late freeze and the drought that was intense last summer and autumn. Watered and fertilized this year, they should recover and look good next spring. Different types of azaleas, such as your two, reacted differently to the freeze and drought.
