McClintock Heating, Cooling & Electrical
Most Recently Answered Questions
Questions 16 - 35 of 427 (Page 2 of 22)Submitted by Matt from Jacksonville, FL
Q:Rob, First, a hardy Thank You! for giving your time providing answers and guidance. My home is 1800sf in NE Florida and I have electric heat. I am replacing my 17 year old 3 ton system and got an estimate on for a 3 ton Trane 13 SEER Heat Pump 4TWR3036. Would you recommend this unit for my climate? Additionally, there is a $1000 difference between the standard air handler and the variable speed AH. What are the benefits of a variable speed AH and is it worth the added price.
A: I would recommend looking at the 2-stage XL16-i model. It provides 2-stage operation, which I think in your climate would be a huge benefit. As for the variable speed, I believe that it is a proven and reliable product that is a must for most applications.
Submitted by Eric Trenck from Murrells Inlet, SC
Q:I had my AC/Heating contractor give me a estimate for a new relacement heat pump. He said I need a 3 1/2 Seer Goodman heat pump. When I asked about a 14 seer he said he did not recamend a 14 seer as I would hear whistling noises in the ducts. Do you think a 14 seer Goodman is the best choice ?? Thanks
A: Considering higher efficiency is a wise question to ask your contractor. I would certainly seek another opinion before I moved forward.
Submitted by rosafitz from sturbridge, MA
Q:We're finishing off a portion of our basement. Unfortunately, the air handler was placed in the absolute center of the space when we built 5 years ago, requiring us to now frame around it and cut the space up far more than we'd like. Is there any advantage to keeping the handler in the center of the space (the house is 3400 s/f and has a 2nd handler in the attic for the 2nd floor)and, if not, how difficult is it to move a handler over about 8 -10 ft? Thank you!
A: In most applications the center of the house is the optimum for even air distribution. With that said, it is not reality in most applications and moving yours over should not create a problem as long as the ductwork was modified for the move properly.
Submitted by Jed from Charlotte, NC
Q:We are looking at replacing our heat pumps that are 20+ years old. The dual outside air movers were replaced 3-5 years ago and are in good shape and the fiberglass ducts have never been replaced. Every contractor that provides a quote says we need something completely different making it hard to determine exactly what we need done (e.g. replace ducts/don't need to replace ducts; replace air movers/don't need to, etc). Any advice or resources to get a handle on what exactly needs to be done. Also, any advice on replacing ducts; we have no dust problems in our house.
A: Jed, my advice is simple; ask friends and neighbors about their experiences with contractors they have used. Cross reference the results with local contractor rating services. (i.e. BBB, Angie¿s list etc...). Have at least 2 of those firms perform surveys of your home and provide detailed written proposals. If ductwork replacement is a recommendation, ask for pictures to support their case. Go with the contractor that you are most comfortable with. This may not however be the lowest price. Good Luck!
Submitted by Jerry B from Whispering Pines, NC
Q:I have a Carrier Performance 14 Series heat pump which was installed this January. It worked great during the cooling season but now I'm experiencing 'dirty sock syndrome'. What is the current industry's (manufacturer's and dealers) position on this problem? Will they replace the evaporator coil with a coated coil and will a coated coil greatly decrease the Seer rating of the unit? What about the health concerns of the odor being circulated in the home?
A: Dirty sock syndrome is a problem that all manufacturers deal with. The problem stems from the home the equipment is in and not the equipment. Treated coils have been found to reduce the odor in many cases, but not in all. I have seen nothing that tells me that the odor is unhealthy.
Submitted by Travis from Evans
Q:I have a contractor of Heating & AIr Conditioning Co wanting to sell me a brand new Trane 2-ton 12 SEER gas package unit for $2596.00, but all other contactors ditch the idea of selling a 12SEER. They want to sell me a 13-SEER for a miminum of $3595.00
A: Travis, As of January of 2006 manufactures could not produce equipment with a SEER of less than 13. I would certainly question the selection of this model as it has been built for at least two years.
Submitted by ND from Osceola, Arkansas
Q:I have decided to replace my 2 ancient electric package central units with ductless mini split heat pump units. Can you recommend brands? From my research so far it seems that Mitsubishi makes very good units but they seem to be very expensive. Also, what criteria should I look for in one of these units (compressor type etc.). I live near Memphis Tennessee which is hot & humid in the summer with moderate winters. Thanks
A: Mini splits are a wonderful product for many applications. Keep in mind the word "ductless" when considering this for an application. They only heat and cool in the room for which they are installed. No ducting will carry conditioned air to other parts of the home.
Submitted by Anonymous from Ann Arbor, Michigan
Q:Just had a Trane XL80 2-stage furnace and XR13 AC unit installed. HVAC man put in a single stage thermostat with 2 wires going to W1, and left the jumper on the Rh & RC terminals, with 1 24V wire going to them. Will the system run properly this way, or do I need to put in a 2-stage thermostat?
A: The system should operate normally. There are essentially 2 options. The way he set it up, the heat will run on low stage for 10 minutes then go to high stage. With a two stage t-stat, it will run on low stage as long as needed, when the t-stat senses a drop in room temperature the high stage will kick in.
Submitted by Anonymous from Wilmington NC
Q:Rob, two quick questions: as a Home Inspector I often see Condensers and Air Handlers from different manufacturers. Do you feel that this is something that prospective buyers should be alerted to? Why? Should prospective buyers be alerted to mismatched 10 Seer/other systems? Why?
A: I feel that homeowners should be made aware of the fact that a system that was inspected is not of the same manufacture and thus the performance, reliabilty and and remaining warranty is unknown. Buyer beware!
Submitted by Bob from Virginia Beach, VA
Q:Why am I getting moisture dripping off my ducts close to the heat exchanger in the attic. My system is a Apollo type and the humidty outside is around 90%. Drip pan has water in it and only looks like only one of the two drain line has water coming out of it outside. Any help please... Respectfully, Bob
A: Bob there are many reasons for the water, but a simple checkup by your servicer should easily diagnose the specific problem. Good Luck!
Submitted by Christi from Nashville, TN
Q:Rob, I have an old split unit¿gas furnace under the house with the compressor outside. My house is 1400 sq ft, nearly 100 yrs old with 11¿ ceilings, plaster walls, average insulation, and no sub floor under the hardwood floors. Definitely not an energy efficient house but I¿m looking to replace the system (and all the duct work) with something more efficient and cost effective. Tennessee has some of the lowest electricity prices in the country due to TVA and given todays gas prices I'm thinking of switching to electric. What type of unit and power source would you recommend? Your direction is greatly appreciated.
A: Christi. Electric heat pumps with variable speed and 2- stage technology have proven to be a great system for all seasons.
Submitted by sandman from Sallisaw Oklahoma
Q:I have a trane air handler and need to know what heat pumps will work with it? It is model # 2TEE3F37A1000AA. I belive it is a 13 seer. Is it possible to mismatch the system with a different brand heat pump? Thanks!!
A: It is STRONGLY recommended that components such as heat pumps and air handlers not be mismatched. Most manufactures will void warranties if systems are not properly matched.... and for good reason.
Submitted by Debbie from Owings Mills, MD
Q:We are replacing a 20+ year old Comfortmaker heat pump system. Some of the contractors are telling us that we must change out the refrigerant lines because the existing ones are too small, some of the contractors, namely the Trane and Amamna suppliers, are saying that they do not have to change out the lines. Who should we believe??? We are concerned that not changing out the lines may compromise the new system and its warranty.
A: Debbie, whenever possible, we recommend replacing the refrigerant lines when replacing the system.
Submitted by Eileen from Tamarac Fl
Q:I recently had a Trane ac installed. It was to be unit XR13 with matching air handler. The condensing model 2TTR3024 is what was installed. Is this a true XR13 unit? Also this air handler does not seem to be the one that should be with this unit...It is 2TFB3F24B DO5AA I do not know if there was factory installed TXV as I just found out about such an item as this and did not know to ask about this. I trusted that the salesman would auto match the air handler with the outside unit of 13 seers. I am sure learing alot on the internet. Thank YOU so Much.
A: Eileen, the models that you have listed ARE a match from everything that I have. The air handler should have a factory TXV.
Submitted by Richard from Hagerstown MD
Q:I have trane 3 ton heat pump model # 2TWB00036A1000AB. I was told it was a 3 ton anyway? I need a airhandler for this unit. Can you tell me what type of Airhandle I need and what price I can expect to pay? Also is the above modle # really a 3 ton? Thanks for the info.
A: Richard, the model you listed is a 10 SEER 3-ton model heat pump. Trane makes many different air handlers that fit many different applications. I would recommend having an independent Trane dealer survey your home and provide you with the most sensible solution possible. Good luck!
Submitted by Marty from No location specified
Q:Rob, We have a Trane high efficiency heat pump about 3 years old. The routine maintenance showed a failed TXV. The TXV is under warranty, but the labor charges seem very high compared to routine service. Is this a difficult job that should be very expensive? Thank you!
A: Marty, the replacement of a TXV can be relatively expensive, even though the part it self is under a "parts" warranty. Be sure that the contractor is replacing the liquid line drier, and properly evacuating and charging the system according to the manufacturers specifications.
Submitted by Anonymous from Bethlehem, PA
Q:I planning to replace the old York Heat Pump system for a Trane 4TWX6024 XL16I. Because I don't know how good/reliable the Trane system is in the long run, should I get the extra 10 years LABOR warranty for $500.00 or should I accept the 2 years (included with the installation) that the installer is offering me? Please reply with your advise before May 30, 2007 Thank you very much. Hernan, Bethlehem, PA
A: I personally believe that for the peace of mind that it provides, the additional cost is well worth it for 10 whole years of coverage.
Submitted by Anonymous from Hickory, NC
Q:We are finishing our basement and there is not a good way to bring the ducts down from the main system. We have been told that the ductless mini split would be a good option since it is one big room. We have been looking at 2 different brands. Friedrich and Mitsubishi. I have heard that some brands have more problems than others. Any sugesstions on which to go with?
A: We have found Mitsubishi to be very reliable.
Submitted by TOM RUCKER from BOSSIER CITY, LA.
Q:What is the difference between a Trane 2TWZ9048 and A TRANE 2TTZ9048A1000A? WHAT IS A GOOD PRICE TO PAY FOR THESE UNITS?
A: The 2TWZ is a heat pump and the 2TTZ is an AC only unit. The application, location, additional components and most of all quality of the installation will affect the total costs of the installation. Try to find a company that is an expert in the application that you have, check references and consumer ratings. The price should then be competitive. Good Luck!
Submitted by Roy from memphis, tn
Q:I just had a Mitsubishi split ductless system installed in my home. The piping runs from my outside unit and through my hot attic crawl space and inside my interior walls to its destination over my window in a bonus room. I noticed after installation that one of the lines was dripping. I read the instructions and it stated that both lines had to be insulated. Will the condensation be enough to cause serious damage or will it evaporate before it gets a chance?? Should I make him insulate the line?
A: Roy, it is also my understanding that both lines need to be insulated on those applications, I would recommend having that done.
