Heating And Cooling
Most Recently Answered Questions
Questions 1 - 15 of 418 (Page 1 of 22)Submitted by Amanda from SC
Q:We purchased a home last May (2007)with an air handler in the attic and a heat pump outside. We received an HVAC letter and had a home inspection done. The house was built in 2002. As part of closing, we received a home warranty for the period of one year. We have a leaking coil in our air handler and have been told that they (the home warranty company) will replace the air handler but we must pay for "code upgrades". When I called to get more information I was told that they must install an electrical disconnect and secondary drain pan. Our house is only 6 years old - is this something that was in the code then and should have been done when the unit was originally installed? Also, if they replace the air handler but not the heat pump are there any problems that can arise from this?
A: Amanda, ask for a detail of what the upgrades are and an explanation of how those have changed since the original installation.
Submitted by Becca from Tacoma, WA
Q:We are replacing our Oil Furnace with an Electric one. One bid was for a Trane air handler and the other a Trane variable air handler. Besides the $800 price difference which one would be better to get and why? Thanks for the help, we are little confused in the is area.
A: Becca, the variable speed air handler is by far the better choice. First it will provide the best comfort for both heating and cooling AND will cost a good deal less to operate. The variable speed also gives you the most options to upgrade to mere efficient systems and air cleaning units.
Submitted by Mara Mades from South Miami, FL
Q:I had a system installed this week and it was to be a SEER 17. The model # is 2tEE3F37A1000AA. Is that a SEER 17?
A: Mara, the model that you listed is for an air handler (the indoor unit). It is a variable speed unit but by itself is not rated by SEER. To get the true rating, the outdoor unit model # would also need to be known.
Submitted by David Hamacher from Lake Mary, FL
Q:My 5 ton 10 seer Trane heat pump is over 14 years old, probably much less than 10 seer now. I replaced the air handler 2 years ago with a Trane 13 seer multi speed. My cooling bills really didn't drop and cost per kwh are rising. I am looking to replace the heat pump and am debating on 14+(14-15) or 16. I know I will need to replace the air handler with a higher rated variable speed unit to get max efficiency. Question: what is the problem if I install a 16 seer heat pump now and replace the air handler in the future? All I hear is that the units need to 'match', but I have never seen any specific reasons why. Is it a matter of efficiency, or is there a stress or other serious problem that will occur? I also want to understand if the new coolant could be used in the 'newer' air handler or what could be done to it to allow it to function. Thanks for your help.
A: Your best bet is to do it all at the same time. The XL16-i will not match up with your current air handler.
Submitted by Chris from Fayetteville,NC
Q:I have a new Trane XL14C duel fuel system. Will it be ok to set the balance point to say 25 for the backup gas heat? Or should 30 or 35 be a better setting? Thanks a lot
A: The true balance point can only be determined with a load calculation of your home. With that said, you could certainly set the point lower if you choose to.
Submitted by Anonymous from Houston,TX
Q:I have received estimates to replace the evaporator coil only in the original system in my house that was built in 1996. However,one estimate was to replace the entire system for efficiency and the fact that due to the new refrigerant that will have to be used in 2010. Should the entire system be replaced or will the new refrigerant be able to be used in the old system. Also if I replace the evaporator coil would there be a problem matching the compressor if it goes out.
A: If you have an older system and are considering the evaporator replacement only, you may find yourself replacing it again in a few years because an R-22 condenser may not be available to match it. Some coils are convertible to an extent, but if your system is in need of replacement, now is the time (if at all possible) to strongly consider this option. I will be your least expensive solution over time.
Submitted by Matt from Jacksonville, FL
Q:Rob, First, a hardy Thank You! for giving your time providing answers and guidance. My home is 1800sf in NE Florida and I have electric heat. I am replacing my 17 year old 3 ton system and got an estimate on for a 3 ton Trane 13 SEER Heat Pump 4TWR3036. Would you recommend this unit for my climate? Additionally, there is a $1000 difference between the standard air handler and the variable speed AH. What are the benefits of a variable speed AH and is it worth the added price.
A: I would recommend looking at the 2-stage XL16-i model. It provides 2-stage operation, which I think in your climate would be a huge benefit. As for the variable speed, I believe that it is a proven and reliable product that is a must for most applications.
Submitted by Eric Trenck from Murrells Inlet, SC
Q:I had my AC/Heating contractor give me a estimate for a new relacement heat pump. He said I need a 3 1/2 Seer Goodman heat pump. When I asked about a 14 seer he said he did not recamend a 14 seer as I would hear whistling noises in the ducts. Do you think a 14 seer Goodman is the best choice ?? Thanks
A: Considering higher efficiency is a wise question to ask your contractor. I would certainly seek another opinion before I moved forward.
Submitted by rosafitz from sturbridge, MA
Q:We're finishing off a portion of our basement. Unfortunately, the air handler was placed in the absolute center of the space when we built 5 years ago, requiring us to now frame around it and cut the space up far more than we'd like. Is there any advantage to keeping the handler in the center of the space (the house is 3400 s/f and has a 2nd handler in the attic for the 2nd floor)and, if not, how difficult is it to move a handler over about 8 -10 ft? Thank you!
A: In most applications the center of the house is the optimum for even air distribution. With that said, it is not reality in most applications and moving yours over should not create a problem as long as the ductwork was modified for the move properly.
Submitted by Jed from Charlotte, NC
Q:We are looking at replacing our heat pumps that are 20+ years old. The dual outside air movers were replaced 3-5 years ago and are in good shape and the fiberglass ducts have never been replaced. Every contractor that provides a quote says we need something completely different making it hard to determine exactly what we need done (e.g. replace ducts/don't need to replace ducts; replace air movers/don't need to, etc). Any advice or resources to get a handle on what exactly needs to be done. Also, any advice on replacing ducts; we have no dust problems in our house.
A: Jed, my advice is simple; ask friends and neighbors about their experiences with contractors they have used. Cross reference the results with local contractor rating services. (i.e. BBB, Angie¿s list etc...). Have at least 2 of those firms perform surveys of your home and provide detailed written proposals. If ductwork replacement is a recommendation, ask for pictures to support their case. Go with the contractor that you are most comfortable with. This may not however be the lowest price. Good Luck!
Submitted by Jerry B from Whispering Pines, NC
Q:I have a Carrier Performance 14 Series heat pump which was installed this January. It worked great during the cooling season but now I'm experiencing 'dirty sock syndrome'. What is the current industry's (manufacturer's and dealers) position on this problem? Will they replace the evaporator coil with a coated coil and will a coated coil greatly decrease the Seer rating of the unit? What about the health concerns of the odor being circulated in the home?
A: Dirty sock syndrome is a problem that all manufacturers deal with. The problem stems from the home the equipment is in and not the equipment. Treated coils have been found to reduce the odor in many cases, but not in all. I have seen nothing that tells me that the odor is unhealthy.
Submitted by Travis from Evans
Q:I have a contractor of Heating & AIr Conditioning Co wanting to sell me a brand new Trane 2-ton 12 SEER gas package unit for $2596.00, but all other contactors ditch the idea of selling a 12SEER. They want to sell me a 13-SEER for a miminum of $3595.00
A: Travis, As of January of 2006 manufactures could not produce equipment with a SEER of less than 13. I would certainly question the selection of this model as it has been built for at least two years.
Submitted by ND from Osceola, Arkansas
Q:I have decided to replace my 2 ancient electric package central units with ductless mini split heat pump units. Can you recommend brands? From my research so far it seems that Mitsubishi makes very good units but they seem to be very expensive. Also, what criteria should I look for in one of these units (compressor type etc.). I live near Memphis Tennessee which is hot & humid in the summer with moderate winters. Thanks
A: Mini splits are a wonderful product for many applications. Keep in mind the word "ductless" when considering this for an application. They only heat and cool in the room for which they are installed. No ducting will carry conditioned air to other parts of the home.
Submitted by Anonymous from Ann Arbor, Michigan
Q:Just had a Trane XL80 2-stage furnace and XR13 AC unit installed. HVAC man put in a single stage thermostat with 2 wires going to W1, and left the jumper on the Rh & RC terminals, with 1 24V wire going to them. Will the system run properly this way, or do I need to put in a 2-stage thermostat?
A: The system should operate normally. There are essentially 2 options. The way he set it up, the heat will run on low stage for 10 minutes then go to high stage. With a two stage t-stat, it will run on low stage as long as needed, when the t-stat senses a drop in room temperature the high stage will kick in.
Submitted by Anonymous from Wilmington NC
Q:Rob, two quick questions: as a Home Inspector I often see Condensers and Air Handlers from different manufacturers. Do you feel that this is something that prospective buyers should be alerted to? Why? Should prospective buyers be alerted to mismatched 10 Seer/other systems? Why?
A: I feel that homeowners should be made aware of the fact that a system that was inspected is not of the same manufacture and thus the performance, reliabilty and and remaining warranty is unknown. Buyer beware!
