McClintock Heating, Cooling & Electrical
Most Recently Answered Questions
Questions 1 - 15 of 438 (Page 1 of 23)Submitted by Robert Snyder from Wilmington, DE
Q:Rob: I am thinking of putting a Trane 4TWX6024 16I 2 ton heat pump with a new variable speed air handler, 10K backup resistant heat. Trane control, new line set and aux Trane pane. Can you give me a ball park figure one for the equip and one for the labor for a very small home approx 800" sq ft. which will need also alum. duct work????? Thank you so much for your advices.
A: Robert, this is a question that i am asked a lot about, and is THE most difficult to answer. The application that you have will drive the general cost and it is very specific to your home. Furthermore, making sure that the contractor is doing the job "right" and not trying to give you a "bare-bones" quote to get the job. There are many things that go into a job that can get cut out with low bidders and will end up costing YOU much more in operating and maintenance expenses. Check local consumer rating sites, speak with friends and neighbors about their experiences and select two or three contractors to submit quotes. Go with the one that you believe will do the best job for the money. This may not be the cheapest bid however.
Submitted by chris from bristol, ct
Q:Rob, I have a Trane XR13 heat pump that is 2 years old. When using the ac at times the system will come on and then the heat pump starts to flicker on and off for a few seconds, and then comes back on. When this happens my lights and tv flicker with it. I would say it happens 50% of the time. It only happens when the AC is being used, never when in heat mode. I've had multiple "techs" look at it and no one has any ideas. Please help. Thanks
A: Chris, it sounds as if the unit could have trouble starting up. This could be due to a weak capacitor or even a tight compressor. Another culprit on older homes that added AC could be an undersized service feeder from the power company.
Submitted by Jennifer from charlotte
Q:I have a leak in the coil upstairs and the tech told me that I oculd replace it for around $1500. Does this sound about right? He also said that if I get the coil fixed in the attic and something goes wrong with the coil outside, I would have to get the coil inside and outside redone for around $3500. Is this true? And would I need to do that since the this is the last year for the type of coil that I have upstairs.
A: Jennifer, replacement costs vary, but that does sound in the norm. It is true that units that contain R-22 refrigerants will not be produced anymore after the end of this year. In fact many manufacturers have already begun phase-out.
Submitted by john from Charlotte Nc
Q:I was quoted for a new system Trane (XR13) 4TTR3036A1000A with a TRANE (XV95) TUH2B060. Is this a good match for a Tri-Level 2000 sq.ft. house. Would you think it worth the $ to add a electronic filter, we do not have any allergy problems?
A: John, the addition of an electronic filter would be a great compliment to the variable speed furnace that you are getting. The Trane clean effects is an easy mount to this furnace.
Submitted by simpson from matthews.nc
Q:my air condition is not blowing out .I hear a humming sound when its on,when it comes on its use to sound forceful but now very meek
A: The Motor may be going out. Have a qualified service person check the capacitor first. This capacitor helps the motor run. Good Luck!
Submitted by Corey from Virginia Beach, Va
Q:I got an estimate to replace our ancient 2.5 ton gas pack with a Trane XL14c. It included the unit, electronic air cleaner, mastic sealing all vents, new pad, whip, disconnect box, gas valve, extended service contract, and touch screen thermostat for $7500. Does this sound reasonanable to you?
A: Corey, the costs of an installation will vary widely depending on the type of application, and overall quality of the installation. If you have found a reputable contractor that has thoroughly analyzed the application, this number sounds fair. Good Luck!
Submitted by Bill Hoyle from Owings Mills, MD
Q:Our apartment heating when set runs 3-5 cycles of just a fan in between heat cycles. Is this normal? It's a central heating unit (heat pump), individual to our apartment. We have the thermostat set at 71, heat on, fan - auto. Within 1 hour the fan had run 3 cycles 15 min each, and the heat only once for about 10 minutes. At this rate it seems like it'd be running almost 18 hours a day. Our maintenance staff says it's working properly, but our last bill was through the roof and we now have to manually turn on/off the heat to keep the bill down. Any thoughts?
A: Bill, On the surface it sounds as if the "heat pump" may not be working and the system may be running on "auxilliary" heat which is MUCH more expensive to operate than the heat pump. You might want to have another company come by to check the unit out. Although this would likley be a cost to you, it may in turn save you money if may suspician is correct. If all is OK with the system, talk to your apartment manager about the concerns you have with the high utility bills.
Submitted by Don from Lincolnton
Q:I purchased a new home and when the heat pump comes on the lights in the house go dim. Also when the heat pump goes off and when it first comes on it blows cold air for about 2 minutes. It is a zoned system and sometimes when you turn off the master bedroom thermostat and turn on the thermostat in the living room the heat comes on in the Master bedroom with the thermostat turned off. The heat in the living room with the thermostat on does not come on as it should. Any suggestions?
A: Don, light flickering is sometimes attributed to loose connection and/or undersized electrical service wiring. As for the zoning, it sounds as if the system needs to be "tuned" and adjusted to correctly work with a zoning system. I would try to find a local contractor that is familiar with zoning take a look to make the necessary adjustments. Good luck!
Submitted by doug patterson from midlothian, va
Q:Last year, I did a complete change out of my HVAC system. I installed a Trane 16l-i 3 ton system where a 2 ton ac system was. I went with more tonage because I plan to run more duct work to an addition I am currently building. Since the installation of the new system, the blower speed fluctates from slow to high speed irradically. When demand is high due to high or low outside temperatures, the compressor cuts in and out about every 5 seconds. Also, quite often the system blows warm air from the registers and other times the air feels cool when it is cold outside. My question is; can all of these problems be the caused by my current duct work since it was designed for the original size of my house or is there a known problem with the Trane 16l-i?
A: Doug, your problem is most likely with the fact that you have a 3 tone system on 2 ton ductwork. This will cause the very symptoms that you are seeing now. I would recommend remedying this before equipment damage occurs. Good Luck!
Submitted by Don from Lincolnton, NC
Q: What can be done to fix a heat pump that has a 5 ton output and only 3 1/2 ton return. Thanks
A: Dan, the first thing that is the most important is to determine what size unit is required for your home. Have a qualified and reputable contractor perform a "manual J" load calculation on your home. You will then have clear insight into what can be done to fix your issue. Be sure to ask for a copy of the load calculation. Be sure that it is for your home and the square footage, windows, insulation, etc... are accurate. Good luck!
Submitted by Tim Lowe from Gastonia, N.C.
Q:I have had service contract with several local companies and have not been satisfied with any. I am the one who has to call them to remind them of their obligation to come out and service my units. Would you please give me what you think would be a fair annual cost for this service. I would not care if they only come one time a year. Thanks
A: Tim, prices for service contracts vary with the benefits that the company provides to the contract holder. In your area, most companies offer plans that include 2 visits per year, a discount on items not covered, preferred customer status, and any company in today’s market should certainly be able to contact you to let you know when the next service interval is due. If your current company does not fit the above scenario, it is time to move on. Ask friends, neighbors, and coworkers for references.
Submitted by Andrew from Mooresville, NC
Q:Hello, I usually leave my air on and the other night i got home and the house was not cooled and there was a thick smell of something burning. I turned off the air and it went away. The next night i turned the air back on and almost instantly the house filled with the burning smell again. I figure it's messed up. Anything I can do to check?? How much does it cost to have somebody check/fix? Never had my own AC break, my first house.
A: Andrew, it may or may not be normal to have that smell. I strongly recommend that you have your system checked prior to the upcoming season every year. Most companies offer maintenance contracts that keep you on a regular cycle and thus avoid many potential problems.
Submitted by Seth from Statesville, NC
Q:Hello, I am planning on having my air handler replaced and want to have it sized to the appropriate Trane condenser unit that I will replace next year when the funds are available. We're looking at getting a XL19i unit next year and would like your opinion if the additional expense for the 19 SEER unit is worth it over the 15 or 16 SEER? What would be the time to payoff for the 19 SEER over the 15 or 16 SEER? We have a 2000 SQ FT home near Charlotte so the summers are long and hummid. Our home is all electric and our bill averages $133 per month peaks around $200 in the summer. Also, we do get some cold weather so heating efficiency is a concern as well. Thanks, Seth
A: Seth, it is a great idea to consider the higher SEER units that you describe. The additional expense should provide returns both financially and with much better comfort. Contact your local Trane dealer to get the specific estimated savings and features the system provides. Good luck!
Submitted by JOHNSIE from JAMESTOWN,NC
Q:My heat pump system needed repair. I was told the blower wheel was not working. I payed $97.00 for this diagnosis. The technician stated he would have to order the part. The part came in and the tech stated it would cost $330.00 for the part/labor. When he wrote up the ticked all that was on the ticket was $330.00 he did not have how much the part cost and how much I was paying for labor. I had to contact the office for the information. I talked with the owner who stated they use a national book that gives one price (depending on the part)for the part then avg. for labor depending on how long it might take to take out the old and put in the new(it also takes into account cost of gas for the vehicles etc) He finally told me the part cost $146.00 + 35.00(shipping)therefore I payed $149.00 in labor. My question: Is this common practice for most companies that they are no longer breaking down the cost of repairs to their customers and secondly do you think this labor charge was excssive?(he was only at my home for 45minutes.
A: Johnsie, this is a common practice today by most companies. Where your contractor missed the boat for your home was, he should have given you the quote prior to proceeding with any work. Then if approved you are at a fixed price regardless of how long it takes the technician. This is a much better system than was used before where the consumer had no idea what the exact charge would be until the repair was made. By that time declining the repair was not an option and the customer on a large scale was not always satisfied.
Submitted by Clive Wilson from Mooresville, NC
Q:Over this past summer, I noticed that my air conditioner ran longer than normal to keep my house cool every time my clothes dryer was used. There was a direct relationship between the outdoor temperature and how much longer my air conditioner had to run to keep our house cool. On days in the high 90s, my air conditioner ran hours more rather than minutes more. It is obvious that the clothes dryer pulls air that has already been conditioned out of my house at a significant rate. I confirmed this by feeling the pressure of the air blowing out of the dryer vent, air out of the dryer must equal air into the dryer. I am concerned about the energy waste for my home and reduced lifespan of my air conditioner due to clothes dryer utilization in the summer. I do not have the option of hanging laundry on a clothes line, which I would not want to do anyway as pollen, dust, etc. gets into clothes hung outdoors. I was not able to find anything in the market to address this problem. Do you know of anything that addresses this energy waste and added burden on the air conditioner?
A: Clive, it would be advisable to put a fresh air vent in the laundry area as near to the drier as possible. This vent should connect directly to the outdoor air in some fashion. By doing this you will pull the air required from that location when the drier is on and not add the additional load to the entire home.
