Thick ones and thin ones, some slightly flavored and some salted only, these are stellar.

1. Comet Grill

Medium-thick, square-cut, seriously seasoned things of beauty, these are also some of the few that can be had with vegetarian sandwiches. (Yes, this Dilworth stalwart, 2224 Park Road, is back open after a change in ownership, and yes, the fries are still terrific.)

2. Lulu's

Thin and given a French je ne sais quoi by their accompaniments, these can be had with your choice of half a dozen sauces, or a steak, or mussels. 1911 Central Ave.

3. The Counter

Sweet potato ones, that is, or what they call “sweets” here. These are not the greasy mess so many sweet potato fries turn into – and with a little of the horseradish mayo, they're exquisite. 4310 Sharon Road.

4. Five Guys Burgers and Fries

. This chain lists where the day's potatoes were “born,” which is a nice idea but would mean squat if the fat fries weren't great. Luckily, they are. Multiple locations.

5.New South Kitchen

(Tragically, they're not on the current menu) Truffle fries, they were called: thin, crisp and a little salty, dusted with parmesan, scattered with thin pieces of crispy mushroom and a hint of truffle oil. Sublime. Maybe Chris Edwards will bring them back … 8140 Providence Road.

Helen Schwab