Reading Matters

Why does my mouth water when I pass Holly Hill, S.C.?

I’m driving down I-95 to Charleston, where, as we all know, you can always find great food.

So why, as I’m breezing along, does my mouth over-water when I pass the sign for Holly Hill, S.C.?

I’ll tell you why. Years ago, my husband and I were driving back to Charlotte from a Charleston wedding, and we had a hunch we might find some mighty good barbecue in Holly Hill. What we found was sensational. Just the ticket. Oh-so-good.

But I don’t remember the name of the place, and I can’t find the way-back-when column I wrote about it.

Now, however, I’m in luck. A new book, “Barbecue Lover’s The Carolinas: Restaurants, Markets, Recipes & Traditions,” by Robert F. Moss, just landed on my desk.

It lists Sweatman’s Bar-B-Que at 1427 Eutaw Rd., Holly Hill, S.C., 29059. I’m not sure it’s the same place, but you better believe we will give it a try next time we head that way. It’s under the heading “Yellow Mustard & Hash: The Midlands & Lowcountry of South Carolina.” Phone: 803-496-1227. Lunch and dinner Fri.-Sat.

Yes, of course, Moss, who lives in Charleston and is Southern Living’s contributing barbecue editor, lists Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge in Shelby. It’s under “Shoulders and Light Red Sauce: The Piedmont,” along with Lexington Barbecue, Smiley’s Lexington BBQ, Hill’s Lexington Barbecue and Carolina Bar-B-Q of Statesville.

For “some tender, fiery barbecue,” try Cooper’s Country Store on US 521, Salters, S.C. That’s under “Whole Hogs & Vinegar Sauce: Eastern North Carolina & the Pee Dee.”

You’re going to want a copy of this book. It’s got recipes. It’s got the works. Globe Pequot: $21.95 soft cover.