Joe and Katy Kindred, the owners of Kindred in Davidson, spent months searching for ideas for a dinner for the Southern Foodways summer symposium, El Sur Latino. Here are a few of their favorite discoveries.
▪ Lake Todd Fish Camp, outside Concord. With their second restaurant, Hello Sailor, expected to open in August, the Kindreds have been visiting fish camps all over the state: “I can taste tartar sauce in my sleep,” Joe Kindred admits. This place, though, was a classic they didn’t know. It inspired Joe to include whole N.C.-caught fish in his SFA dinner (they’re hoping for flounder).
▪ Mily & Lalo, the Peruvian restaurant at 3210 N. Sharon Amity Road. They both flipped over the corn nuts on the ceviche and a fried fish platter with a sweated onion relish. They’ve been working on “the perfect corn nut” ever since.
▪ Sav/Way Food’s sandwich counter. Tom Hanchett introduced the Kindreds to the chorizo torta here, and they took Southern Foodways Alliance’s John T. Edge to try it. Edge told The Observer about it, and we shared it with readers in March, setting off a stampede. (You’re welcome.)
▪ Sav/Way Food’s aisles and produce section. Katy Kindred is a fan of shopping here: “If you’re a cook, go and explore. That place is a treasure.” For the Future Tense Dinner, they’ll serve smoked Appalachian trout from Sunburst Farms topped with bergamot, pipicha – Mexican coriander – coconut and a regional sour cream called creme guatelatecca, inspired by flavors they found here.
▪ Mexican-style fruit cups. At Mini-Super El Nevado, the small market next door to Tacos El Nevado on Central Avenue, the Kindreds found a man making fruit cups topped with lime syrup and cayenne pepper. (He has since stopped making them there, although you can find them at the Open Air Market, 5471 Central Ave., on Saturdays and Sundays.) It was a taste memory for them: When they were dating in Chicago, Katy lived in an area called Pilsen, a working-class area with a heavily Latino population. When Joe would visit her, they’d buy fruit cups from a street vendor. “It was moving (to find them again),” Joe says. “I’m not going to lie.”