2007 Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc
Sonoma County, $12.99.
What's in a name? If you're looking for a fume blanc, it can be confusion. It's really sauvignon blanc, so look there in the wine shop. For that, you can thank or blame the late Robert Mondavi. He came up with the idea in the 1960s, when sauvignon blanc didn't have much cache and he wanted to establish a new wine using sauvignon blanc grapes in the style of the Pouilly Fumes of France's Loire. Blended with a little semillon and viognier and just a hint of oak, St. Jean's version is a crisp, bright white wine that still has enough nuttiness and fruitiness for fall food.