Food & Drink

Cheese ‘gelato’ is cold, savory and hard to resist

From Joe Yonan of The Washington Post:

How can you see a menu listing for something called Parmigiano “Gelato” and not order it? When you do, at Osteria Morini in Washington, it shows up formed into a perfect little quenelle, just as ice cream does at fancy restaurants. But it’s also sitting on a board, next to a pile of crostini. And you realize: It’s cold, not frozen; savory, not sweet. Once you dig in, you can’t stop.

The dish is so simple that our bartender offered up the basic recipe before we could even ask: “You just whip Parmigiano with cream and drizzle it with good balsamic vinegar,” he said. Turns out, that’s pretty much it, indeed. We got the scaled-down proportions and instructions from executive chef Matthew Adler, who said the official recipe comes from the flagship Morini in New York’s SoHo. “It’s now a Morini classic,” Adler says. “People love it.”

About that name? It refers, more than anything, to the texture: soft and elastic, as a good gelato should be. When you make it for a dinner party, you’ll scoop it and stir it, and it will stretch and fall just as you’ve seen at the best gelato shops. Then you’ll taste – and believe in magic.