Food & Drink

The truth about marinades: Most are a waste of time

Marinades may smell good, but they can sometimes do more harm than good.
Marinades may smell good, but they can sometimes do more harm than good. Glenn Koenig/Los Angeles Times

Marinating meats for the grill seems to bring out the inner herbalist in even the most hard-boiled of home cooks. A little olive oil, some lemon juice, a handful of herbs, some exotic spices – whatever smells right.

The truth is, though, that marinades rarely do much good. In fact, in some cases – those that call for a long soak – they can do more damage than good.

No matter how long you soak it, most marinades won’t penetrate more than the outside eighth of an inch. That’s because meat is made up mostly of water (about 75 percent by weight), and water and oily marinades don’t mix. This is true whether you’re marinating for a half-day or for a week.

In most cases, that isn’t a bad thing. Most meats we marinate are thin cuts – chicken pieces or beef or pork steaks. With thinner cuts, you’re almost always guaranteed to get a good bit of seasoned surface when you take a bite.

But in some cases, marinating can damage the meat. If you have very much acidity in the marinade – vinegar or lemon juice, for example – too long a bath can make the meat mealy. This is based on the same science that leads some to believe that marinating “tenderizes.” Acid does denature protein – it unwinds the tightly balled strands – and that does make meat softer.

But what is actually happening is that the outside of the meat is becoming overly tender – mealy – while the inside remains mostly untouched.

If you want to make a tough cut of meat more tender, it’s better to simply slice it thin, either before or after grilling.

Surprisingly, simply generously seasoning meat or poultry with salt and freshly ground black pepper will work wonders for flavor. This is particularly true if you do this 30 to 45 minutes in advance.

Try this sometime: Cook three steaks, one that has been salted and peppered in advance, one that has been seasoned just before grilling and a third that is seasoned only afterward. The difference is astonishing. Steak seasoned at the end tastes like meat with salt. Steak seasoned just before grilling is a bit better. But steak seasoned early has a deep, complex flavor and a much richer brown crust.

The notable exception to the rule that marinades only work skin-deep is brining. That’s because salty water can more easily penetrate the meat than an oil-based marinade. It actually makes the meat seem juicier by increasing protein’s ability to retain moisture.

Dry-brining – liberally salting the meat and letting it stand for several hours or even days – does much the same thing. The salt pulls moisture from the surface, dissolves in that liquid and then is absorbed deep into the meat. This can take as little as a couple of hours for a thin fish fillet, a half-day for thin steaks or three or four days for a whole turkey.

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