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11 feared dead, 2 rescued on K2

A helicopter plucked two frostbitten Dutch climbers from K2 on Monday after an avalanche and exposure left at least 11 people presumed dead on the world's second-highest mountain.

An Italian who was also stranded made his way down the slope with a rescue team after telling a colleague, “I am surely not going to give up now.”

One of the rescued men, Wilco Van Rooijen, blamed mistakes in preparation for the final ascent – not just the avalanche – for one of mountaineering's worst disasters.

“Everything was going well to Camp Four, and on summit attempt everything went wrong,” Van Rooijen told The Associated Press by phone from a military hospital, where he was being treated for frostbitten toes.

K2, near Pakistan's northern border with China, is regarded by mountaineers as more challenging than Mount Everest, the world's highest peak. K2 is steeper, rockier and more prone to sudden, severe weather.

Van Rooijen said several expeditions waited through July for good weather to scale K2. In all, about two dozen climbers made the ascent, officials said.

But Van Rooijen said advance climbers laid ropes in some of the wrong places on the 28,250-foot peak, including in a treacherous gully known as “The Bottleneck.”

“We were astonished. We had to move it. That took, of course, many, many hours. Some turned back because they did not trust it anymore,” said Van Rooijen, 40.

He said those who went on reached the summit just before nightfall. As the fastest climbers descended in darkness across The Bottleneck, about 1,148 feet below the summit, a huge serac, or column of ice, fell. Rooijen said a Norwegian climber and two Nepalese sherpas were swept away. His own team was split up in the darkness.

The Ministry of Tourism released a list of 11 climbers believed dead: three South Koreans, two Nepalis, two Pakistanis and mountaineers from France, Ireland, Serbia and Norway.

At least two fell on the mountain before the avalanche.

The Italian climber, Marco Confortola, descended to 20,340 feet, but bad weather forced officials to abort a helicopter rescue Monday, said Shahzad Qaiser, a top official at the tourism ministry. Confortola was climbing down on foot, despite frostbite, assisted by a support team from a base camp.

Agostino Da Polenza of Everest-K2-CNR, an Italy-based high-altitude scientific research group, spoke to Confortola on Monday.

“I never gave up in my life, I am surely not going to give up now,” Da Polenza quoted the climber as saying on his group's Web site.

Another attempt was planned for today, Qaiser said.

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