What’s all the fuss about? Bonterra revisited and reviewed.

Note: David, as he explains below, is a “newly minted adult” who doesn’t get a chance to eat at Charlotte’s finer restaurants very often. So we sent him to Bonterra — one of our city’s premier restaurants — to get his reaction. For legit culinary reviews, check out Helen Schwab. She’s a pro.

Charlotte Restaurant Week is the one time a year people like myself (floundering-in-debt, newly minted “adults”) can sample Charlotte’s more premier restaurants. I was excited to manage a seat at Bonterra, for I had heard good things, and was immediately disappointed.

I wasn’t alone in this let-down. Local Amanda F. opens her Yelp review, “Oh Bonterra. I wanted it to be love, but it was just Meh.”

Disregarding her loose use of capitalization, her review demonstrates the polarized feelings regarding Bonterra. But, our country prides itself on granting second chances. This is how I found myself outside Bonterra again, two months after Restaurant Week.

I was armed with a friend, his brother and a parent to cover the bill. (Seriously, guys — college loans. Whose bright idea was that?)

Let’s be clear: it was better, though extremely inconsistent, like recent seasons of SNL.

The meal hit a high note early on with the booze, because let’s be real: The wine list is extensive. I mean can’t-fit-in-your-hand, might-make-you-choke massive.

Though they don’t always have every wine available, our choice of the Italian Fanti was robust and warm. With the dreary fall weather of late, it was welcome like a warm sweater.

Likewise, the old fashioned from the bar was one of the few true highlights of the meal. Perhaps my one mistake of the night was not ordering five more to go.

The charcuterie board the table shared was the best food of the night, with the pâté maison being a personal favorite of the meat selection. It was the house-pickled vegetables, however, that truly stole the show. They were perfectly sweet and vinegary to cut through the fat of the meat and cheeses.

The entrée, however, probably should have remained in the kitchen.

The dish – Duck Two Ways – was both accurate and a bit misleading. The waiter had to explain the second way was, in fact, a hash made with duck confit. Anything that needs explaining without prompting is probably mislabeled.

The pan-seared duck was perfectly cooked. The duck hash, on the other hand, made me realize how aptly named the restaurant is. Bonterra: Italian for “good earth,” That hash was as flavorful and appealing as dirt.

My friend shared a similar sentiment, saying his Cheshire Pork Duo “was over-salted while managing no other flavor.” The entrées come off as bland as the art lining the walls.

Perhaps Bonterra should lean into its strengths: its superb bar and wine selection.

Though I believe in second chances, I think baseball might be too forgiving. Sometimes it should be two strikes and “you’re out.”

Photos by CharlotteFive Staff and David Restaino.

This story was originally published September 28, 2015 at 10:00 PM with the headline "What’s all the fuss about? Bonterra revisited and reviewed.."