Road trip: Discover the magic of Cataloochee in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

My husband’s friend gave us directions to the Cataloochee Valley several years ago when he heard we were heading to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I was skeptical of this so-called magical place, but we followed his directions, and now, Cataloochee will forever be one of our favorite finds.

Our drive through the mountains to this valley was windy, narrow and without guard rails. Once on Cove Creek Road, the main road through all of Cataloochee, it opened to large meadows, and we crept along slowly to make sure we didn’t miss anything. We photographed wild turkeys and waited by our car to catch a glimpse of bigger game. We never saw anything bigger than a deer.

We explored the old community, took some of the shorter hikes and toured the Caldwell House, a spooky adventure. It’s our favorite because its unexpected history and beautiful wildlife is in a peaceful place, seemingly untouched by time.

Cataloochee is three-hour drive from Charlotte. It’s located on the eastern part of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, close to Pisgah National Forest and 13 miles from exit 20 on Interstate 40.

Here’s what you need to know before you go:

Drive back in time

According to the Cataloochee Auto Tour (an inexpensive booklet available in the valley), the Cherokee Native Americans hunted and fished in Cataloochee, although they didn’t settle in the area. In the early 1800s young white settlers wanted to start their own homesteads, and Colonel Robert Love gave away his land to those who could improve it. Over the next century, a strong and vibrant community was built.

Although, by 1938, most of the families sold their land to the government for the creation of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Many 19th and 20th century buildings are still standing. The Palmer Chapel, Beech Grove School, Caldwell House and many others are visible from Cove Creek Road.

There are plenty of places to park and see the sites up close.

View the wildlife

The overlook in Cataloochee is the first part of the experience. Before sunset, visitors park their cars along the meadow on Cove Creek Road and set up chairs and picnics to wait for elk to make an appearance. 

Mark File is a travel guide who covers western North Carolina on his website, Romantic Asheville. He said that September and October are the best times to visit Cataloochee because it’s the rut, breeding season for the elk.

“The bull elk are looking for their mate, and they make these bugling calls,” said File. “They’re really cool to hear. You can hear their calls for miles. You can watch them chase after the females and ‘interact.’”

Deer, raccoons, skunks and possibly black bear may also make an appearance in the meadow.

Hike and camp in the valley

For a more intimate view of Cataloochee, hike Boogerman Loop, Little Cataloochee Trail, Caldwell Fork Trail, Rough Fork Trail or Big Fork Ridge. Look for trailheads on Cove Creek Road. Most of the hikes are strenuous and difficult, and vary in length. The trail map shows how the trails connect for more extensive hikes.

Esther Blakely offers luxury eco-tours of the Cataloochee Valley, which include a half mile to two-mile hike with a history and wildlife lesson. She has a special elk tour that highlights the history of the Cataloochee people and the reintroduction of elk to the area. For more information or to make a reservation, email Blakely at tourguide@cataloocheevalleytours.com. (She picks you up for the tours.)

Twenty-seven primitive tent, group and recreational vehicle camping sites are available April through October. Reservations are required. Backcountry camping is also permitted in designated locations with a permit.

Pro tips

• For best directions, get a free map at a Great Smoky Mountain Visitor Center or download one here. There is no cell phone reception in the valley.
• Purchase a Cataloochee Auto Tour booklet for $1 in the valley or at a Great Smoky Mountain Visitor Center.
• Bring a picnic and camping chairs. There are no picnic tables or vending machines.
• Bathroom facilities are available, but primitive.
• Be careful about getting close to wildlife, especially elks looking for a mate.
• Dogs are not permitted on the hiking trails.

Photos: Mark File, Vanessa Infanzon

This story was originally published August 28, 2017 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Road trip: Discover the magic of Cataloochee in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park."