13 off-the-beaten path spots you need to visit on your next weekend trip to Asheville
They city’s main attractions – the Biltmore House, the French Broad River and a brewery on every corner – are well-documented. Here are a few things that may be off-the-beaten-path in this city that celebrates everything alternative.
Shop
– Tops for Shoes: No trip to Asheville is complete for me without a stop at Tops for Shoes. The staff is knowledgeable and dedicated to making sure men, women and children leave with a shoe that looks and feels good. But it was Vince, a shoe biz veteran and my sole provider, who changed my life when he diagnosed me with a “Germanic foot” and told me what brand of shoes to buy for my condition.
Tops is a good central location from which to branch off in any direction for shopping in all manner of local, indie boutiques. Anthropologie is just a few doors down from Tops, but it’s about the only brand name you’ll see. And with its boho look, it fits right in.
– River Arts District: My heart always beats a little faster when I approach the River Arts District, home to more than 200 artists and craftspeople whose studios are open to the public when they’re in residence. Twenty-two buildings housing potters, painters, glassmakers, metalsmiths, fiber artists and more are all within one mile of each other.
I’ve been collecting Michael Hofman’s hand-built porcelain dinnerware for years. Each piece has the imprint of antique lace on it. But this isn’t your granny’s china. It’s modern and durable – with gorgeous glazes in shades of umber, cream, pale lavender, deep blue. Hofman’s faithful dog, Rose, is a fixture in his shop. She’ll point you in the direction of her treat jar.
Wander around and find your own favorites. Look carefully. Some places are tiny and easy to miss.
As you drive through Asheville, keep your eyes peeled. In the unlikeliest places, you may find something that compels you to make a (legal) U-turn and stop in. The tiny DryGoods Shop – with handmade clothing, jewelry and dish gardens – was just such a place.
Stay
– The Grand Bohemian: In Biltmore Village, this is a magical mashup of a contemporary art gallery and hunting lodge. It is next-level luxury.
– Princess Anne Hotel: For something simpler, there’s the historic Princess Anne Hotel in a residential neighborhood close to downtown and Biltmore. During its 92-year history, the shingled building has been a hotel, psychiatric hospital, retirement home and now a hotel again. Jenni, the manager on duty during my stay, said the singer Johnny Mercer’s parents even owned it at one time. And it has free parking and afternoon wine and cheese.
Nearly all of the 16 rooms are spacious, simply furnished suites with a living room, kitchenette, bedroom and bathroom complete with clawfoot tub.
Listen
– Isis Restaurant & Music Hall: No matter how many times I visit Asheville, each trip brings a new discovery. This time, that was the Isis Restaurant & Music Hall, where my all-time favorite folk singer, Ellis Paul, was playing. (He comes to The Evening Muse every year or so.)
The West Asheville venue is a restaurant and listening room that features national bands and smaller, not-yet-famous singer/songwriters. Too often at places that double as a restaurant and music hall, the music is great and the food is mediocre. But Isis’ kitchen turns out creative fare that’s worthy of the talent they book.
There are sandwiches and small bites, but there’s heartier fare, too. My server recommended the grilled salmon gratin, which came with grilled shiitakes, roasted corn and red onion hash and sautéed spinach. Delish.
Chow
The food is reason enough to go to Asheville. If you can get a reservation at Curate (insanely popular tapas place downtown) or The Admiral (gourmet dining in a West Asheville cinderblock building), you’ll be lucky. Nightbell and Rhubarb are other can’t-miss destinations.
– Biscuit Head: For breakfast, there’s one place everyone mentions. There will likely be a line at Biscuit Head, especially if you go to the smaller of the two locations. (The West Asheville location is roomier than the outpost near Biltmore Village.) Don’t worry. It moves fast, and it’s worth the wait, especially for the biscuit and gravy flight.
– Bull and Beggar: In the mood for something fancier? Sunday brunch at Bull and Beggar is a scrumptious end to a weekend. My filet mignon was served with bacon and an egg over an English muffin with Madeira sauce. It was rich, but right-sized for lunch. And the Bloody Caesar (an alternative to its sister, the Bloody Mary) had just the right kick. It’s made with Clamato juice instead of tomato juice. At the Bull and Beggar, it’s also made with gin rather than vodka.
– The Hop Ice Cream Cafe: You’re likely to find yourself near The Hop Ice Cream Café – since there are three in town. This being Asheville, vegan ice cream is an option. All the ice cream is homemade: The local honey is a standout, and blueberry kale was featured in Saveur magazine.
Texas has Austin. Oregon has Portland. Lucky for those of us in North Carolina, we have the land of dreadlocks and Bernie bumper stickers. A mountain town where the scent of patchouli hangs in the air and craft breweries are practically ubiquitous. No matter the temp, Asheville is always a cool escape.
Photos: Page Leggett
This story was originally published August 12, 2016 at 12:12 AM with the headline "13 off-the-beaten path spots you need to visit on your next weekend trip to Asheville."