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Get a taste of France at Renaissance Patisserie

I got my first taste of France in Charlotte when I bit into a cannelé from the Renaissance Patisserie counter at Charlotte Regional Farmers Market. Buttery with a slight caramelized crunch.

As it turns out, there is a whole storefront loaded with this type of baked nirvana in South End.

Don’t be fooled by the construction chaos where Sedgefield shops stood mere weeks ago.

The “open” sign in the glass bank of windows at 2809 South Blvd. is still flashing bright Monday through Saturday from 7 a.m.-6 p.m.

I was so excited to get my second taste of France in Charlotte that I burst inside and immediately ordered a steaming cup of coffee. It turns out I’m presumptuous and the coffee was not French, but a (beautifully rich) Cameroon Boyo roast from Forte Legato Company.

Nonetheless, the glass case stretching by the cash register didn’t let me down.

Martin Schreiner, who works the counter and the patisserie’s social media accounts, told me that the almond croissants (les croissants aux amandes) are the bestsellers.

Chef Sylvain Rivet, who hails from France, emerged from the kitchen to say, “The croissant is very simple.”

Rivet, who moved here for his wife Jo-Anne’s banking career, described how he and his staff (which includes sous chef Stepfon Lecque) bake the croissants the day prior to placing them in the case, so that they become a little bit dry. Then they open up the croissants to add simple syrup, a slight taste of orange, almond cream and fresh almond slices before baking.

He said his focus is “the freshness of the product, the délicatesse of the product.”

Still, he said he has adapted to American tastes, including gluten free options (which are making their way into French culture as well), cheesecake (with a French sweet dough crust) and the seasonal pumpkin craze (he introduces the pumpkin croissant at the patisserie on Saturday).

Other pastries include the cream cheese danish, the flaky peach tart, the chocolate croissant (pain au chocolat) the spinach and feta bistro danish, the pecan cinnamon swirl danish — I’ll stop now.

Here’s the menu: click.

And the ambiance doesn’t disappoint. Schreiner answers the phone in French: “Renaissance Patisserie, bonjour?”

Baguettes are propped up behind the counter and the chandeliers and buttercup-yellow accent wall emit a warm glow. Additional pastries beckon from the depths of large jars.

While this place does have WiFi connectivity, it’s best set up for an in-and-out approach. You’re welcome to sit and snack, but Rivet is waiting until he opens his next location to really offer a sit-and-stick-around option.

He plans to stay at this location for two years (they opened in late May) and then, once the Sedgefield Shopping Center redevelopment is complete, to open a larger space in that zone.

But no matter where the patisserie sits or who comes in through the door, Rivet has one aim: “We are here to give some bonheur — happiness.”

Photos by Martin Schreiner and Katie Toussaint.


Katie Toussaint

@katietoussaint

This story was originally published September 2, 2015 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Get a taste of France at Renaissance Patisserie."

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