Detour

My slice of heaven: A beginner’s guide to Yosemite National Park

Half Dome of Yosemite National Park.
Half Dome of Yosemite National Park. Courtesy of Kings Mountain National Military Park

Yosemite National Park, one of the first wilderness parks in the United States, encompasses 1,200 square miles of deep valleys, grand meadows, ancient giant sequoias, lakes, rivers, streams, waterfalls, wildflowers, forests, wildlife and spectacular granite cliffs. Despite the park’s enormity, most of Yosemite’s 3 million annual visitors rarely venture beyond Yosemite Valley because it’s arguably the most spectacular section of the park as well as home to the vast majority of the park’s most famous sites, Half Dome, El Capitan, Nevada Falls, Glacier Point and Yosemite Falls, the highest measured waterfall in North America.

The visual impact of a lush green valley framed by mammoth granite monoliths with waterfalls jetting out over their cliffs is a jaw-dropping site especially when viewing it for the first time. Stopping at the site called “Tunnel View” as you enter the park from Highway 41 will automatically transport you to a “We aren’t in Kansas anymore” moment, as you ponder whether or not you have just landed on another planet.

Suggested Activities

For the Yosemite newbie, a great way to launch your exploration is by taking an easy hike to Mirror Lake, which is only one mile from the shuttle bus stop, then take a leisurely stroll to the visitor’s center where you will find the Ansel Adams Gallery, Indian museum and a reconstructed Indian Village behind the museum. While there be sure to see the introductory film called, “Spirit of Yosemite” which shows on the half-hour and don’t forget to pick up a Yosemite newspaper, which has a schedule of the events, lectures, hikes and other activities that are taking place around the Valley.

If your energy permits, consider taking a leisurely stroll from the visitor’s center to the base of Yosemite Falls. But if you’re not up to it, don’t fret; that just might be a perfect start to Day Two.

Another great way to jumpstart your maiden voyage to Yosemite Valley is, especially if you are not a hiker or you are the type that likes to get the lay of the land when you visit someplace new, consider taking an open-air guided bus tour of the Valley.

A postcard of the Vernal Falls in Yosemite Valley, Calif., from 1903.
A postcard of the Vernal Falls in Yosemite Valley, Calif., from 1903. Courtesy of New York Public Library

My favorite thing to do in Yosemite, in addition to hiking to Vernal and Nevada Falls, is riding my bike on the 12-mile loop around the Valley floor and hiking down from Glacier Point. On cold nights, I love relaxing on the couch in front of the fireplace in the Ahwahnee Hotel’s lounge.

Yosemite Valley Lodging and Eats

Depending on who I am traveling with, I either stay at Yosemite Valley Lodge, Curry Village Wood cabins or Housekeeping Camp. The Lodge has rustic hotel rooms in 6–8-unit two story complexes, the cabins come with or without a bathroom. Housekeeping Camp is good alternative for people who like to camp outdoors without the hassle of setting up a tent. The units have three cement walls and one heavy canvas curtain covering for the fourth side, plus a concrete roof and floor, a picnic table, bear-proof food storage container and electrical outlets. It is the only lodging option that includes a campfire area with each unit. I always request a river unit so I can listen to the Merced River at night and relax by the river during the day.

I usually eat at Yosemite Lodge’s Food Court, Curry Village Cafeteria, Degan’s Deli or Yosemite Village Grill. For at least one evening, I treat myself to dinner at the elegant and rustic Ahwahnee hotel. Even though it’s expensive, it’s worth the splurge to check out their magnificent dining room with its 34-foot-high beamed ceiling, granite pillars and floor-to-ceiling windows. The live music enhances the enjoyment of the experience especially since the food is only mildly interesting.

Trip planning tips

In planning your first (or next trip) to Yosemite, consider visiting in May, in order to see Yosemite’s waterfalls in their post-winter, full-spring glory. Be sure to avoid weekends and the post-Memorial Day/pre-Labor Day mob scenes that take over Yosemite Valley.

To learn more about Yosemite check out the following:

  • Yosemitethisyear.com – website for the Yosemite Sierra Tourist Bureau
  • Yosemite.com – website for Delaware North, the company that manages Yosemite National Park
  • Yosemite Ranger, Shelton Johnson’s, book, Gloryland, in which he confronts American racism head-on in a novel that he hopes will encourage Black people to find a connection with the country’s wilderness landscapes.

This story was originally published July 7, 2022 at 11:00 AM.

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