The following are among the best in their categories, chosen by restaurant writer Helen Schwab.

BISTROS AND SUCH

BOUDREAUX'S LOUISIANA KITCHEN, 501 E. 36th St.; 704-331-9898. With a lineup that's part Cajun, part Creole, part Mississippi, part wherever, this artful little NoDa restaurant offers traditional goodies like a killer oyster po' boy and gumbos, plus more surprising fare. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday ($6-$13).

CAJUN QUEEN, 1800 E. Seventh St.; 704-377-9017. It may not be Mardi Gras every day, but you can sure fix a craving here. The Cajun Queen is neither exclusively deep-deep-bayou Cajun nor dressed-up-fancy Creole: It's a meld, in cuisine, decor and manners. Look for BBQ shrimp (sauteed and fine), sauteed crawfish tails and good bread pudding. Dinner nightly ($13-$25)and Sunday brunch.

CARPE DIEM, 1535 Elizabeth Ave.; 704-377-7976. With intricate woodwork and lighting befitting its 50-year-old site, this restaurant offers New American cooking, with varied influences and a noteworthy support of the vegetarian. Nice attention to texture and color is evident. Save room for exquisite desserts.

Non-smoking. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($14-$30).

CUSTOMSHOP, 1601 Elizabeth Ave.; 704-333-3396. Celeb power (a partner is NYC's Dave Pasternack, chef at Esca) and clear, bright flavors along with some innovation and a funky wine list make this work. Lunch ($7-$11) weekdays, dinner ($17-$26) Monday-Saturday; Sunday brunch ($8-$10).

DOLCE, 1710 Kenilworth Ave.; 704-332-7525. An unpretentious, tiny spot serving handsome regional Italian fare and the occasional surprising wine find, brought to you by the same folks who helped introduce Charlotte to Italian pizza at Luisa's. Lunch weekdays ($6-$9.95), dinner Monday-Saturday ($11-$21).

GLOBAL, 3520 Toringdon Way; 704-248-0866. Chef/owner Bernard Brunet tours the globe with some panache in this tiny, personal spot. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($16-$26).

ILIOS NOCHE, 11508 Providence Road; 704-814-9882. From beautiful bakery items in the morning to elegant desserts at night, this is versatile, smart and well-executed. Wood-oven-done pizzas (don't miss goat cheese, apple and prosciutto) to luscious lamb, fat sandwiches to handsome salads, the Mediterranean fare bursts with bold flavor and simplicity. Lunch and dinner weekdays, brunch and dinner Saturday ($3-$28).

LULU, 1911 Central Ave.; 704-376-2242. Gutsy, innovative and fun dishes that use everything from heirloom ingredients to housemade bacon, in a bistro setting, make this a rare pleasure. Duck and rabbit, steaks, gorgeous salads, and classics like mussels and frites shine. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday; brunch and dinner Sunday ($8-$25).

MAMA RICOTTA'S, King's Pointe Shopping Center 601 S. Kings Drive; 704-343-0148. This sprightly, cosmopolitan place banks on Italianate entrees and pastas, from pork scaloppini with balsamic and grape glaze to chicken bianco (breasts with mozzarella, prosciutto, wild mushrooms and pan juices). Lunch weekdays ($6-$12); dinner nightly ($9-$21); brunch Sundays 10-2 ($4-$9).

MIMOSA GRILL, 327 S. Tryon St.; 704-343-0700. This strikingly designed uptown spot boasts Tennessee fieldstone, cherry wood, an art-gallery entrance and a view of fountains and terraces on Tryon Street. Sibling to Upstream and Harper's, this has a wood-burning oven and a menu that's eclectic but significantly Southern. Lunch weekdays ($6-$13); dinner nightly ($19-$34).

NOLEN KITCHEN, 2839 Selwyn Ave.; 704-372-1424. Stylish in every respect, from the tailored interior to the sleek bar and patio to a menu chock full of contemporary creative juices: butter-poached lobster and lamb tagine, mini gourmet burgers and finely crafted desserts. Lunch weekdays ($6-14), dinner Monday-Saturday ($7-26); brunch Sunday.

PEWTER ROSE BISTRO, 1820 South Blvd.; 704-332-8149. This Charlotte old-timer has contemporary flair and plenty of light dishes (plus nice vegetarian options), and Sunday brunch is one of the town's best. Lunch weekdays; brunch Saturday and Sunday ($6-$12); dinner nightly except Sunday ($14-$22).

ROOSTER'S, 6601 Morrison Blvd.; 704-366-8688. Grab a seat at the bar if you want to watch a kitchen in action producing spit-fire-roasted chicken and leg of lamb, barbecued pork shoulder, grilled or seared fishes; vegetables that are deep-fried, pan-fried, wilted or roasted; and more. You can also loll at a table, but you'll miss a good show. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday (proteins $6-$19; sides $4-$9).

SIR EDMOND HALLEY'S, 4151-A Park Road; 704-525-2555. Billed as a restaurant and free house (old England's name for a pub pouring all manner of brews, not just one company's), this offers Brit fare and an amazing assortment of Brit-etc. brews. It also offers contemporary fare, plus plentiful portions and creative desserts. The entire menu is served until 2 a.m. Lunch weekdays ($8 including drink); dinner nightly ($7-$18).

SONOMA MODERN AMERICAN, Founders Hall 100 N. Tryon St.; 704-332-1132. Tucked into Founders Hall, it's a stylish mix of dark wood and frosted glass, with an equally stylish seasonal menu from chef Tim Groody. Lunch weekdays ($7-$13); dinner Monday-Saturday ($17-$35).

TERRA, 545-B Providence Road; 704-332-1886. A bistro with plenty of Italian flavor amid the French, and lush dishes all around. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday ($18-$30).

TIM SCHAFER'S, 7343 Gabriel St. Sherrills Ford; 704-483-9127. Sometimes called the Brew Chef, Schafer puts beers to use in his upscale menu, from a porterhouse pork chop with brown sugar stout glaze to “beerimisu.” The site was once Sherrills Ford's post office. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday ($20-$35).

TOSCANA, 6401 Morrison Blvd.; 704-367-1808. Sensual in both food offerings and ambiance, Toscana speaks Italian in vivid colors and flavors. Both the delicate and the robust are nicely done in a menu that changes seasonally. Lunch weekdays ($8-$13); dinner Monday-Saturday ($16-$30).

TOWN, 710 W. Trade St.; 704-379-7555. Choose small courses or entrees, sequentially or simultaneously, and nestle into this sleekly designed sibling to Sonoma. Skewers, dumplings, gnocchi, foie gras; chicken, quail, pork, steak; vegetables grilled, caramelized, braised - it's a monumental mix-and-match. Lunch weekdays ($5-$10); dinner Monday-Saturday ($6-$25).

VILLAGE TAVERN, 4201 Congress St., Suite 190; 704-552-9983. Notable for a sleek terrace that has live music in the summer, this is an all-purpose stop. The interior's pubby, with cherry wood and black and white tile. The menu's varied, from good burgers to grilled fish to Sunday brunch, while sandwiches are done pretty well and there's always the “World's Smallest Sundae.” Lunch Monday-Saturday and Sunday brunch ($6-$15); dinner nightly ($10-$26).

LOCAL COLOR

BEEF 'N BOTTLE, 4538 South Blvd.; 704-523-9977. Landmarks topple, downtown becomes uptown and still Beef 'n Bottle serves up steak and seafood as it has since '78. Count on oysters Rockefeller, a fine filet mignon, salad that's iceberg lettuce and a plate of veggies, and sides like home fries. Crooners are the music of choice. Dinner Monday-Saturday ($17-$38).

BILL SPOON'S BARBECUE, 5524 South Blvd.; 704-525-8865. Whole pig cooking, Eastern North Carolina-style, is what you'll get here - nutty and rich meat with just a bit of sauce. It's a plain setup, for plainly good 'cue. Catering available. Lunch Monday-Saturday ($5-$10).

CAROLINA COUNTRY BARBECUE, 838 Tyvola Road; 704-525-0337. Additional locations: 1101 Union Road, Gastonia, 704-867-2481. A serviceable introduction to the art of 'cue. Plenty in the state are plainer or more rawly authentic than this, but around here, this is a good bet. Sauce is a tomato-based mix, with plenty of sugar and vinegar. Quick, quick service and heavy, sweet pups. Lunch and dinner daily ($4-$15).

COMET GRILL, 2224 Park Road; 704-371-4300. A snug little neighborhood joint, this has good burgers and fries, some vegetarian stuff, deli sandwiches and family-recipe chicken wings. Live music sometimes. Dinner Tuesday, Friday and Saturday ($7-$9). Bluegrass Tuesdays.

EDDIE'S PLACE, 617 S. Sharon Amity Road; 704-442-0147. A fine family destination, this little place serves breakfast all day. Look for New Orleans-inspired tidbits like po' boys and Creoles, and a nightly list of entrees. Second location in Ballantyne, 12239 Toringdon Way, 704-542-0000. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily ($4-$18).

GOOD OL' DAYS, 3351 Pineville-Matthews Road; 704-543-4100. This family spot with a little '50s fashion gives you crusty big burgers and good shakes or fine buttermilk pancakes and omelets (not to mention challah French toast) all day long. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily ($8.99-$12).

GREEN'S LUNCH, 309 W. Fourth St.; 704-332-1786. Serving up for 70+ years, Green's does hot dogs like no one else. The chili sauce reportedly was added in the late '60s, the slaw in the mid-'70s and a newfangled chicken sandwich even later. But just get a dog “all the way” ketchup, mustard, fine-chopped sweet slaw, onions and orange-staining, fine-textured chili. Breakfast and lunch weekdays, breakfast Saturday ($1.05-$4.05).

HOTEL CHARLOTTE, 705 S. Sharon Amity Road; 704-364-8755. A classic among local places, it's named after the original Hotel Charlotte, which once was downtown. You'll find tons of beers (and club mugs everywhere) and some decent American/Cajun-style food. Lunch weekdays and Sunday ($8-12); dinner Monday-Saturday ($12-$25).

LANDMARK, 4429 Central Ave.; 704-532-1153. It's THE place to go at 2 a.m. (or anytime) when you can't decide if you want Belgian waffles or moussaka or burger and fries: It has everything, plus a huge dessert case. Breakfast, lunch ($2-$8) and dinner ($6-$14) daily – and the place stays open until 4 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

LUPIE'S, 2718 Monroe Road; 704-374-1232. Coughing hot chili (with meat, beans, vegetarian soy whatever-it-is), soft macaroni and cheese, perfectly charred burgers, an assortment of actual vegetables, killer banana pudding and Gee Whiz beer make this joint a must-eat-at. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($5-$8).

MAC'S SPEED SHOP, 2511 South Blvd.; 704-522-6227. Renovated transmission shop becomes biker-barbecue joint, with fancy motorcycles up front and smoky chopped pork – along with Texas-style brisket, smoked wings and lots of other interesting and well-done fare - inside. Don't forget the banana pudding. Lunch and dinner daily ($2-$20).

MERT'S HEART & SOUL, 214 N. College St.; 704-342-4222. Southern food from varied influences – soul food to N'Awlins favorites to updated hybrids – brighten the plates here, as the sprightly decor and friendly service (when it's not jammed) can brighten your day. Fried chicken to salmon cakes, cobblers to banana pudding and more are well represented. A great place to take visitors for a taste of the South. Lunch weekdays ($5-$8); dinner Tuesday-Sunday ($10-15); brunch Saturday and Sunday.

MR. K'S, 2107 South Blvd.; 704-375-4318. Soft-serve ice cream and fabulous, corny onion rings are standouts at this classic family operation, in business more than 30 years. Burgers are another draw (the Big K is the popular quarter-pounder, and the garden burger has its loyal fans). Service is the real wonder; the family feel is apparent from the get-go. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($2-$6). ATM inside.

OLD HICKORY HOUSE, 6538 N. Tryon St.; 704-596-8014. Dark with paneling and dotted with lamps made to look like little covered wagons, this institution (it began at a different site) has served barbecue for 40 years. Sweet and sloppy, the pork or beef is served sliced or chopped in plates or sandwiches. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($6-$15).

PENGUIN, 1921 Commonwealth Ave.; 704-375-6959. This 1954 ice cream parlor turned drive-in, now turned spruced-up cafe and bar is so retro-ly cool, it's arctic: A '50s diner look, a menu stretching from fat burgers to barbecue to salt-and-pepper pork chops (and killer banana pudding) and a clientele outdone in diversity only by the fabulous jukebox. Lunch and dinner daily ($2-$7).

PIKE'S OLD FASHIONED SODA SHOP, 1930 Camden Road; 704-372-0092. It grew famous for fountain Cokes, ice cream sodas and a little menu in which plenty came from family recipes (like chicken salad and a range of cakes); now it serves dinner, too (like chicken in puff pastry with mashed potatoes). Sundays, there's a wide-ranging breakfast/brunch buffet. Lunch and dinner weekdays; lunch and dinner Saturday; Sunday breakfast/brunch ($5-$13).

PRICE'S CHICKEN COOP, 1614 Camden Road; 704-333-9866. Some of the best fried chicken in town since '62; you run in from the street to get it, and it's worth every grease spot on the cardboard box. Park where you can. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday ($4-$8). Takeout only.

RANCH HOUSE, 5614 Wilkinson Blvd.; 704-399-5411. Within these dark brown walls – lighted by a line of luminous neon outside – lives a real '50s roadhouse. Candles in dimpled red glass dimly light the room's dark paneling and crimson curtains. Seared, smoky steaks; flounder, icy beer and whiskey shots: That's Ranch House fare. Don't miss killer-hot shrimp “cocktale.” Dinner Monday-Saturday ($14-$30).

ROASTING COMPANY, 1601-A Montford Drive; 704-521-8188. Here's rotisserie chicken injected with a Costa Rican-style marinade, some pork and a marvelous array of vegetables in a stripped-down atmosphere fine for kids, too. Don't miss the black beans. Lunch weekdays ($4-$10); dinner daily ($4-$10).

SIMMONS FOURTH WARD RESTAURANT, 516 N. Graham St.; 704-334-6640. When Vontina Knotts bought the restaurant from her mother, Dorothy Simmons, she added a few things (fish, stew beef, chicken wings, baked chicken, okra, and a variety of vegetables) but Dorothy still cooks, and the meat loaf, chicken, pork chops and cabbage are among the city's best. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday ($7-$10).

WOODSHED, 210 S. Main St., Stanley; 704-263-1030. The reason to go to the WoodShed is steak, but the atmosphere makes it a night, from blue lanterns on the front to the specked brown and gray of the pepper crust on prime rib. House specialty is rib eye with mushroom gravy; there are other steaks, plus shrimp, fish and chicken. Do NOT miss “The Famous ‘LBH' Onion & Tomato Sandwich.” Dinner Tuesday-Saturday ($13-$29). No liquor, but you may brown-bag.

This story was originally published August 8, 2008 at 12:00 AM with the headline "."