Food & Drink

Next-gen entertaining for the Jewish High Holidays

Even if you get smoked fish and salads from a deli, you can arrange them on your own platters. Figure 3 ounces of salads and 2 ounces of smoked fish per person.
Even if you get smoked fish and salads from a deli, you can arrange them on your own platters. Figure 3 ounces of salads and 2 ounces of smoked fish per person. Dixie D. Vereen/The Washington Post

Now that the Jewish High Holidays are under way, starting at sundown Sunday with Rosh Hashanah and continuing through breaking the Yom Kippur fast after sundown next Wednesday, maybe it’s time to update the approach.

If you're hosting for the first time, know that you're blessed with many more options, from inspiration and doorstep delivery to recipes that reflect a blend of Sephardic and Ashkenazi traditions. The world has gotten more chill about entertaining. What’s important is the positive spirit you can evoke with the right mix of delicious things to eat.

A post-synagogue buffet or a sit-down meal still calls for advance attention, and it must be flexible enough to accommodate tastes and special diets. Experienced hosts have learned to rely on a combination of homemade and purchased items.

In particular, platters – the reliable bones of a spread meant for grazing – can be so much more than a pile of bagels with cream cheese or an array of cut-up fruit.

Here are a few things to keep in mind, gleaned from some of my favorite veteran hosts and caterers:

▪ With a little notice – typically two to four days – deli counters and restaurants that cater will usually build a platter on a favorite private receptacle of yours instead of a disposable one.

▪ If you’re building your own platters, draw from various sources and think about a balance of color. Sturdy lettuce cups can stand in for condiment containers. Put down a bed of greens; green leaf lettuce holds up well.

▪  Figure on 3-ounce portions per person for whitefish salads and egg salads, and 2-ounce portions per person for smoked fish.

▪ If you run short of platters, use wooden cutting boards.

▪ Dried fruits and nuts can create a beautiful canvas on their own instead of being relegated to separate bowls.

▪ A grilled side of salmon or whole smoked fish makes a stunning presentation, especially when it’s surrounded by slices of olives, pickled vegetables and late-summer tomatoes.

▪ Serve noodle kugels in 2-inch squares; reheat, covered, in a 350-degree oven for 15 minutes, then remove the cover to crisp up the top.

▪ Have take-home containers on hand if you don't want leftovers; if you are counting on leftovers, set aside what you'd like before assembling the buffet.

Cardamom Pickled Grapes

Adapted from “The Gefilte Manifesto: New Recipes for Old World Jewish Foods,” by Jeffrey Yoskowitz and Liz Alpern (Flatiron Books, 2016). Fresh grapes take surprisingly well to pickling. Add these sweet-tart orbs to a cheese platter, or pulse them in a food processor just to the consistency of a relish.

1 1/2 pounds red and/or black seedless grapes, stemmed and rinsed well

1 1/2 cups white wine vinegar

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus a pinch

1 1/2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

1 1/2 heaping teaspoons green cardamom pods, crushed

1 dried small red chile pepper

3/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Place the grapes in a clean 1-quart jar.

Combine the vinegar, sugar, all the salt, peppercorns, cinnamon stick, cardamom, dried red pepper and allspice in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low; once the sugar has dissolved, cook for 3 minutes, then remove from the heat to cool until barely warm.

Pour into the jar with the grapes, then seal the jar. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for 24 hours. Discard the cinnamon stick and refrigerating for up to 3 weeks.

Yield: 1 quart (10 to 20 servings).

This story was originally published October 4, 2016 at 1:40 PM with the headline "Next-gen entertaining for the Jewish High Holidays."

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