How latkes came to be Hanukkah’s ‘it’ food
I like latkes. All kinds: starchy potato, sweet potato, zucchini, cheese, apple, leek, even vegan and gluten-free ones. But for too long in this country, Hanukkah has been all about the latkes – and I'm just about over it.
Sure, there are the games of dreidel, the chocolate gelt and sugary doughnuts with the fancy Hebrew name (sufganiyot). But it’s almost as though guests won't even know they've arrived at a Hanukkah party – the first of the Jewish holiday's eight nights falls on Christmas Eve this year – unless they're greeted by that telltale oily fried smell.
At their best, latkes are a crunchy, savory delight, just snatched from hot oil, perfectly golden brown and ready to be topped with sour cream or applesauce or, even better, eaten straight up. But even if an inferior version from the supermarket freezer case shows up, soggy and barely warm, it doesn't matter. People feel compelled to consume.
Such iconic food status is hard to dismiss. But latkes aren't the only oil-involved foods appropriate for the holiday. How did they take over Hanukkah, anyway?
There's nothing like a story from biblical times to give us permission to eat fried food. Hanukkah commemorates the victory in 165 B.C. of the rebellious Jewish Maccabees over the Syrian Greeks. Once back in control, the victors were able to clean up and rededicate the Temple in Jerusalem. As the story goes, they needed purified, sacred olive oil to light the lamps in the Temple but found only enough for one day rather than the eight days needed to purify more oil. By a miracle, that little bit of oil lasted until more could be made. So foods made with oil get a starring role during this Festival of Lights.
For many centuries, Hanukkah was a minor holiday, with no written history of traditional foods. Then, in the 14th century, we find writings in Italy about pancakes for the holiday made from ricotta cheese and fried in oil.
Truth is, the latke is part of a wide variety of traditional potato pancakes found in nearly every European cuisine. However, it's a surprise to many that Sephardic Jewish cuisines from the Mediterranean and the Mideast also have their own versions of potato pancakes. Most of those are served year-round as well as at Hanukkah, which remains a minor holiday in many Jewish communities, away from the increased “competition” with Christmas found in the United States and Europe.
If you're looking for alternatives to latkes, it's easy to find versions of syrup-soaked, deep fried dough or fritters perfect for Hanukkah. The batter can be dropped into hot oil in clumps or thinned out and squeezed into shapes, like the spirals of Iraqi zangoola or the fried squiggles of Syrian zalabieh, both thinner, crisper relatives of funnel cake. Latin America has buuelos, India jalebi. For Persian Jews it's zoloobiah, while Italian Jews serve anise-flavored frittelle di Hanukkah.
Expanding my horizons of Hanukkah foods even more, I realize that frying isn't required. Olive oil-poached Turkish green beans, an omelet or frittata, even a salad with olive oil dressing or a really good olive oil for dipping crusty bread could all bring welcome variety to a Hanukkah celebration. Cheese-filled blintzes browned in oil and butter also seem a perfect dish for this holiday.
While I am reconciled to latke love, this year I plan to invite other food friends to the party, establishing some new Hanukkah traditions with a full roster of co-stars alongside that iconic latke.
Barocas, the founding director of the Jewish Food Experience, is a filmmaker, writer and cooking teacher who lives in the District of Columbia. On Twitter: @shbarocas.
Turkish Green Beans (Fasoulia)
This is a touchstone vegetable dish in Turkey that was incorporated into the country's Jewish cuisine generations ago. It's simple to make and it can be served hot, cold or at room temperature.
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, diced
2 large or 3 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped, plus their juices
1 teaspoon sea salt, or more as needed
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more as needed
1 cup water
2 pounds untrimmed haricots verts (thin French green beans; may substitute regular green beans, trimmed)
Lemon wedge, for serving
About 1/2 cup fresh parsley, coarsely chopped, for serving
Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, stir in the onions; cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until tender and somewhat translucent.
Stir in the tomatoes and their juices (to taste), 1 teaspoon salt and the 1/2 teaspoon pepper; cook for 2 minutes, then add the water and green beans, stirring gently to incorporate. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 45 to 60 minutes, stirring only once or twice; the water should be absorbed and the beans should be soft. Taste and add salt and/or pepper, as needed.
Transfer to a platter or wide, shallow serving bowl. (At this point, the beans can be refrigerated for up to a day.)
Just before serving, squeeze the lemon wedge over the top and sprinkle with the parsley.
Per serving (based on 8): 170 calories, 3 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 280 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Persian Potato Pancakes (Kookoo Sib Zamini)
Those who know regular potato latkes will notice right away that these are different in texture and appearance, as they start with cooked potato, use more eggs and are a lovely golden color inside.
2 pounds red potatoes
Sea salt
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
Freshly ground black pepper
5 large eggs, beaten
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
Scrub the potatoes. If they vary in size, cut the larger ones in half. Put all the potatoes in a large pot with a couple pinches of salt and cover with cool water by at least an inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 30 to 40 minutes (depending on their size), until the potatoes are barely fork-tender. Drain and place in a bowl of cold water to cool completely.
Drain the potatoes and discard the potato skins. Use the large-holed side of a box grated to grate the cooled potatoes.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder and turmeric in a large mixing bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add the grated potatoes and beaten eggs, mixing until well incorporated.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Use your hands to form oval or round patties, using all the potato mixture. (Or you could make one large pancake, rosti-style.) Once the oil shimmers, add several patties to the pan, gently flattening them with the back of a wooden spoon. Cook for about 8 minutes, turning once, until both sides are a rich golden brown.
Serve warm.
Per serving (based on 6, using 5 tablespoons of oil): 280 calories, 8 g protein, 28 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 155 mg cholesterol, 240 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar
Yield: 4 to 6 servings (makes about 30 3-inch pancakes).
This story was originally published December 20, 2016 at 11:00 AM with the headline "How latkes came to be Hanukkah’s ‘it’ food."