Cocoa cupcakes are the thing to bake for the ‘lean’ season
I don’t care what the poets say about April being the cruelest month. For bakers, the cruel month is January. Everyone resolves to go on a diet, and even if your nearest and dearest will eventually eat what you’ve baked, they’ll put up a fuss before they do.
I still bake through this “lean” season. While I mostly go on my merry way, baking what I want to bake, I make a concession when my dinner guests are dieters. Instead of the usual cakes, tarts or small custards, I make it easy on them and serve these cocoa cupcakes, one-to-a-plate treats that are super-reasonable and delicious in their unadorned state and only slightly less reasonable and even better served with yogurt.
They’re like mini devil’s food cakes and they get their deep flavor from cocoa powder. Because almost all the fat has been removed from the dried cacao solids and nothing has been added, whatever you make with cocoa powder has a pure chocolate flavor (and less fat). The cupcakes get a touch of tang and a lot of their tenderness from buttermilk.
If you make the simple yogurt topping, prepare it before you start the cocoa batter. You need to drain the yogurt for at least 1 hour and then, after you’ve added the sugar and vanilla, you need to chill it, so give yourself a head start. You can get this done a day ahead. The topping is soft and won’t hold its shape for very long; spoon it over the cupcakes when you’re ready to serve them.
Cocoa Cupcakes
These are best eaten the day they are made, but they can be kept covered tightly at room temperature for up to 1 day or frozen for up to 2 months. The yogurt needs to drain for at least 1 hour (and up to 1 day in advance). The topping can be refrigerated a day in advance.
For the topping (optional):
1 cup plain nonfat Greek-style yogurt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
Pinch salt
Sprinkles, for finishing
For the cupcakes:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large eggs, at room temperature
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup regular or low-fat buttermilk, at room temperature
1/2 cup mini chocolate chips (optional)
Line a fine-mesh strainer with damp cheesecloth or a double thickness of damp paper towels and set it over a bowl. Spoon the yogurt into the strainer, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour (or for up to 1 day). One hour before you want to use the topping, spill whatever liquid has accumulated out of the bowl and wipe the bowl dry. Scrape the yogurt into the bowl, then whisk in the vanilla extract, confectioners’ sugar and salt. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Drop paper cupcake liners into a 12-cup muffin pan, or grease the wells with cooking oil spray.
Place the flour in a bowl. Sift the cocoa powder over the flour, then add the cinnamon, baking powder and baking soda. Stir to incorporate.
Combine the butter, granulated sugar and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer or handheld electric mixer; beat on medium speed for about 3 minutes or until smooth. Stop to scrape down the bowl. On medium speed, add the eggs one at a time, beating for a minute between each addition, then add the vanilla extract. (Don’t be concerned if the mixture looks curdled.)
Reduce the speed to low and add half of the flour mixture. Once that is almost incorporated, add all the buttermilk and, once that is incorporated, follow with the remaining flour mixture. When the batter is smooth, mix in the chips, if you’re using them.
Divide the batter evenly among the paper liners or greased muffin wells. Bake the cupcakes on the middle rack for 18 to 21 minutes or until they are peaked and puffed and spring back when pressed lightly; a tester inserted into the center of the cupcakes will come out clean. Transfer to a wire rack (in the pan); cool to room temperature (or don’t: These are good warm, unadorned).
If you’ve opted for the topping, apply just before serving, either on top or thinly spread over cupcake halves (split top to bottom). Decorate with sprinkles, if desired.
Per cupcake (using low-fat buttermilk): 170 calories, 3 g protein, 21 g carbohydrates, 9 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 90 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 12 g sugar
Yield: 12 servings
This story was originally published January 17, 2017 at 2:02 PM.