From the recipe files: Raise deviled eggs to a fine art
With Easter and Passover on their way, deviled egg season has definitely begun. Good time to reach back into the files for one of my favorite Observer recipes of all time: Shirley Corriher’s dressed-up deviled eggs.
They’re a little more work than mashing up cooked egg yolks and a little Duke’s mayo. But the combination is amazing: The lemon zest, the oniony bite of shallots and chives, that hit of salty caviar. It’s not real caviar, mind you, it’s that red paddlefish caviar you can pick up the supermarket, and the only thing I’d use it for is this dish. But these deviled eggs are worth it.
Deviled Eggs With Caviar
From “Cookwise,” by Shirley Corriher (Morrow, 1997).
12 large eggs
1 tablespoon plus 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided
3 medium shallots, minced
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup sour cream
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chives
Finely grated zest (colored part only) of 3 lemons
3 tablespoons red caviar, well chilled
Place the eggs in a saucepan just large enough to hold them all in one layer. Add water to cover by 1 1/2 inches. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Partially cover the pot and bring to a full rolling boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and leave on heat for 30 seconds. Remove pot from heat and let stand, covered, for 15 minutes. Pour off hot water and rinse eggs under cold running water. Pour off the water and shake the pans to crack the eggs. Peel under cold running water.
Cut peeled eggs in half lengthwise. Transfer yolks to a bowl. Cover and chill yolks and whites separately for 1 hour.
Saute the shallots in butter in a skillet over medium-high heat until soft, about 2 minutes. Set aside. Mash yolks with a fork. Mash in the sour cream. Add the mayonnaise, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and cayenne. Whisk until blended. Whisk in shallots. (Note: If you taste filling at this point, it may seem salty. That will balance out when the eggs are stuffed and garnished.)
Fill the egg white halves with the yolk mixture, extending the filling over part of the white. Generously sprinkle each half with chives, leaving a little yellow showing around the edges. Sprinkle each half with lemon zest. Cover and refrigerate. When ready to serve, spoon a bit of cold caviar on each half. Serve well chilled.
Yield: 6 servings.
This story was originally published March 25, 2015 at 3:05 PM with the headline "From the recipe files: Raise deviled eggs to a fine art."