A queen in the world of Southern cooking leaves Charleston, SC, and moves to Raleigh
Nathalie Dupree, a queen of Southern cooking and cookbook writing, will soon be a Raleigh resident. The celebrated author is leaving Charleston, SC, her home for more than two decades, to move to the Triangle.
In her final regular column in Charleston’s Post & Courier newspaper, Dupree announced that she and her husband, Jack Bass, a writer and former Charlotte Observer bureau chief, would relocate to Raleigh to be near Bass’ children.
“I’m looking forward to figuring out what I’ll do with the rest of my life,” said Dupree, who counted finishing a memoir and contributing to a new cookbook anthology among the items on her near future to-do list.
Dupree, 80, has written more than a dozen books and made hundreds of TV appearances. Three of her books won James Beard Foundation awards, most recently the 2012 book “Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking,” written with Cynthia Graubart.
In the move, Dupree trades Charleston, one of the South’s most prized dining destinations, for the up-and-coming Triangle, a region gaining more and more attention for its restaurants and chefs.
Leaving Charleston is bittersweet, Dupree said.
“Charleston is a place that has a vista on every corner, it’s hard to leave that,” Dupree said. “Charleston is unique, you just have to say this has been wonderful and move on. I think we’re really going to enjoy the independent living and downsizing.”
Dupree and Bass will live in the North Hills area, she said.
The Triangle’s dining scene will offer plenty of new adventures, but Dupree has a few favorites. She’s had a number of meals at Raleigh steakhouse the Angus Barn, which is led by a former student of hers, chef Walter Royal. Dupree said she is also eyeing meals at Ashley Christensen’s restaurants and a return to Crook’s Corner in Chapel Hill.
Barbecue allegiance
You could say that mustard-based South Carolina-style barbecue is not Dupree’s favorite kind of barbecue. But that would mean Dupree considers it barbecue at all, which she doesn’t, a stance likely to quickly endear her to her new North Carolina neighbors.
The unofficial residency requirement of North Carolina is to choose an allegiance between Lexington and Eastern North Carolina styles of barbecue. For Dupree, it’s the pork shoulders and red sauce of Lexington that have won her affection.
“I’m a fan of Lexington barbecue,” Dupree said. “I’m really glad to get away from South Carolina barbecue.”
Thanksgiving unlike any other
For Thanksgiving 2020, Dupree was all about relaxing and recognizing that this year is unlike any other. So, too, is the meal.
“My philosophy is life is not perfect, take it in stride and do the best you can,” Dupree said. “You have to accept that this year is challenging and just look forward to next year.”
The two Carolinas
The pandemic has also taken the sting out of the long goodbye that might otherwise come with such a move. Dupree leaves a legacy in Charleston’s growth as a dining city that can be felt throughout the South. She was the founding chairwoman of the Charleston Wine and Food Festival, one of the nation’s top food festivals.
“The pandemic is making this transition easier,” Dupree said. “Normally I’d have book parties and a lot of people coming through. We don’t have that going on right now. It’s easier to separate in that we haven’t been able to see a lot of people.”
Charleston’s nearby beaches and dreamy architecture give way to North Carolina’s more distinct seasons, another tick in the plus column, Dupree said. She wondered if perhaps the move north may cut down on the summer’s sweltering humidity. She may be disappointed.
“I was hoping to get rid of my dehumidifier,” Dupree said. “I suppose I better hang on to it.”
This story was originally published November 25, 2020 at 1:33 PM with the headline "A queen in the world of Southern cooking leaves Charleston, SC, and moves to Raleigh."
