How two bodegas in Charlotte survived COVID, and are now banking on expansion plans

After more than a year of coping to stay open during the COVID-19 pandemic, two bodegas in Charlotte not only survived but have managed to plan for expansions.

The Culture Shop in the Belmont neighborhood and Local Loaf in NoDa have both filed rezoning requests with the city of Charlotte, seeking approval for more onsite dining. The Culture Shop operate as a retail convenience store with food made to go, while Local Loaf wants to add more outdoor seating in an open backyard space.

“With (COVID-19) restrictions lifted, more people go out to eat than pick up and go,” Culture Shop owner Catherine Devericks told the Observer recently.

The neighborhood market at 1425 Kennon St. opened more than a year ago as restaurants and businesses were under capacity limits and other restrictions. The shop sells sandwiches, cheese and charcuterie boards, wine, beer and other provisions to go.

“We could definitely increase our business by having people come in to eat,” Devericks said.

Business drops as COVID limits lift

While markets like The Culture Shop did well during the pandemic as takeout, Devericks said she’s seen a noticeable drop in business, especially at dinner time and later, as more people dine out at restaurants.

She’d like to have a few tables and chairs in an about 12-foot space and possibly add menu offerings like wine by the glass, as well as add outside seating.

Once or twice a day, Devericks said she loses a customer without having a place for them to sit and eat.

“We do lose business when people come in thinking they can grab a bite versus taking it to go,” Devericks said.

The Culture Shop, which also offers catering, has five full-time and two part-time employees.

More outdoor seating

Meanwhile over at Local Loaf less than 2 miles away, chef and owner Adam Spears also wants to add more on-premise dining.

Local Loaf opened at 800 E. 35th St. two years ago selling gourmet sandwiches and artisan breads, and grocery staples like bread, meat, cheese, honey and eggs.

“The pandemic definitely created an outlet to see we were more than just sandwiches and breakfast and brunch,” Spears said.

Local Loaf has indoor seating for about 25 people and a couple of picnic tables outside, but Spears wants to be able to use the back yard to add several more seats. He said the outdoor space could likely be used for about six picnic tables and serve as a community destination spot in the neighborhood off the beaten path.

“It’s less about how many people can we squeeze into a funny car,” Spears said. “It’s more about just having a unique space with a creative venue tucked in a neighborhood.”

Even though more people are vaccinated against the virus, Spears said some customers still prefer outdoor dining because of the pandemic.

Local Loaf, which is staffed by Spears and marketing manager and girlfriend Kristen Ford, remained opened as an essential business selling groceries and sandwiches during the coronavirus pandemic. But as other restaurants began opening back up, Spears said, business dropped off some.

Last year, Local Loaf revenue was down 40%, Spears said. While business is rebounding, he said, it’s still down 25% compared to this time in 2019.

Wednesdays through Fridays are picking up though, Spears said, and weekends are particularly busy. So on Saturday and Sundays, the dining room is closed and food is carryout only. The bodega offers online ordering.

Closing the dining room, Spears said, helps maintain social distancing but more importantly, quality of the food and service when it’s just the two of them.

Local Loaf will be closed for the month of January, he said, and then hopefully, will be hiring more employees and offering more outdoor seating.

“If you’re going to support small business there needs to be more exceptions and let these people grow and be those anchors in small, tight-knit communities,” Spears said. “We just need permission.”

This story was originally published November 8, 2021 at 6:40 AM.