North Carolina

A nearly century-old tradition, COVID-19 cancels ‘Grand Daddy of all North Carolina BBQs’

A tradition nearly a century old, known as the “Grand Daddy of North Carolina BBQs,” has been canceled due to health and safety concerns from the novel coronavirus.

Leaders of Mallard Creek Presbyterian Church in Charlotte voted unanimously Thursday to cancel the 91st annual gathering. Held on the fourth Thursday every October, the Mallard Creek BBQ event draws upwards of 20,000 people annually, including a host of local and national politicians.

In past years, those who came to fill their plate and glad-hand included candidates for mayor, those hoping for a U.S. Senate seat and even former Vice President Dan Quayle and former U.S. Sen. Elizabeth Dole. But many more simply came to eat and socialize.

“Unfortunately, the time-honored tradition of slow roasted pork over hickory wood and making our Brunswick stew and cole slaw from scratch requires very close contact of our church volunteers for a week,” officials posted on Facebook.

“We saw no way to accomplish this, and have our folks remain safe. Finally, we would never want to endanger our customers on BBQ Day.”

While health experts and the CDC have said there’s little risk involved in catching the virus via prepared food or food packaging, there’s widespread documentation of COVID-19 transmission in social settings, including dining and sharing space, such as a kitchen. North Carolina COVID-19 restrictions currently prohibit large gatherings.

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“This difficult decision was reached after much prayer and deliberation, by the Session’s Elders,” officials wrote in an announcement on this week on MallardCreekBBQ.com.

“Rest assured, the church leadership explored many options, such as drive thru only service, spaced out seating, postponement, or a scaled down event.”

The next gathering is scheduled for Oct. 28, 2021.

Organizers cook nearly 15,000 pounds of pork barbecue and 2,500 gallons of Brunswick stew for the event. They prepare 2 tons of coleslaw and brew nearly 400 gallons of coffee.

The tradition began in 1929. The church was under construction when the Great Depression arrived, Observer news partner WBTV reported in 2017. To raise money to finish the work, church deacons hosted a barbecue. Money raised at the event in part goes to local and world missions now.

For years, former N.C. Insurance Commissioner Wayne Goodwin was first in line waiting for the event to open, barbecue co-chairman Bill Wood told the Observer on Saturday. Goodwin is now chairman of the N.C. Democratic Party.

Regarding former Vice President Quayle, Secret Service restrictions and resulting traffic snarls during his appearance prevented lots of people from attending the event, Wood said.

So in subsequent years, when officials for President George W. Bush and Vice-President Joe Biden put out feelers about attending the barbecue, Wood said, organizers mentioned the challenges their appearances could present. Both held off from attending, he said, although organizers made clear that “everyone is welcome” at the barbecue.

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In this 2016 Charlotte Observer photo, Tom Baker puts out containers of stew for takeout drivers at the Mallard Creek BBQ. The 2020 version has been canceled due to concerns over the novel coronavirus pandemic.
In this 2016 Charlotte Observer photo, Tom Baker puts out containers of stew for takeout drivers at the Mallard Creek BBQ. The 2020 version has been canceled due to concerns over the novel coronavirus pandemic. Diedra Laird File photo

This story was originally published August 29, 2020 at 1:24 PM.

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Joe Marusak
The Charlotte Observer
Joe Marusak has been a reporter for The Charlotte Observer since 1989 covering the people, municipalities and major news events of the region, and was a news bureau editor for the paper. He currently reports on breaking news. Support my work with a digital subscription
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