Now open: Peruvian street food restaurant in South Charlotte
Charlotte has a new Peruvian restaurant: Panca Peruvian Street Food. Candy Van Hess and her husband, Kyle Van Hess, have opened a restaurant that features authentic Peruvian street food off Pineville-Matthews Road.
Last year, the Van Hesses were living and working in Miami – a food scene in its own right. Kyle Van Hess was working as the executive sous chef for the Miami Marlins until August 2019, when he was offered a position as the executive sous chef with the Charlotte Hornets.
“They offered us this position in Charlotte, we [moved] the whole family, and then COVID happened,” Candy Van Hess said.
The unexpected coronavirus pandemic meant the arena would ultimately close in March, and eventually the company decided to lay off its management team, which included her husband. So the couple decided to rebound with a backup plan in the form of a restaurant concept that had always been their wildest dream.
“We love Viva Chicken, but there’s so much more to Peruvian Food,” Van Hess said. She and her husband missed the accessibility of authentic Peruvian food, which they couldn’t find nearby.
Once her husband’s furlough began, so began their efforts to create a business plan for a restaurant called Panca Peruvian Street Food. But it wasn’t without challenges.
COVID brings additional financial challenges
“We had the most detailed business plan. We knew how much we were going to pay for labor to the cent, and no one wanted to see us. [Before the pandemic], banks were sending pre-approvals, but after COVID that changed,” said Van Hess, who remembers a bank canceling their loan appointment before they could even arrive one Monday morning.
The COVID-19 pandemic was presenting its own barriers for the couple, who eventually decided to risk it all and use their own funds to build their dream.
“We thought, ‘We have the money in our 401k. Let’s modify the business plan to use our own money,’” Van Hess said of their revelation.
They cut corners wherever they could to meet the tight budget, including shopping at auctions for restaurant equipment.
The two commissioned Charlotte artist Juan Tresierra, who was born and raised in Trujilo, Peru, to paint a mural on the wall of the restaurant. Their only request to the artist was that anyone who sees it feels the spirit of being in a Peruvian restaurant.
Originally, Van Hess was planning to stay with the restaurant while her husband went back to work, but when the furlough became a layoff, they were both able to jump into their dream with 100% focus.
The food industry is nothing new to the pair, who met while working in the restaurant business in Miami. Kyle Van Hess has been cooking since he was 15 years old and attended The Culinary Institute of America in New York – the same as the late Anthony Bourdain, who also brought a great deal of awareness to the Peruvian culinary scene.
In Peru, traditional foods are from the streets
“The most delicious and traditional [foods] are from the streets,” said Van Hess, who emphasizes the commitment to capturing the spirit and authenticity of Peruvian street food.
One of her favorites is a selection called “Anticucho,” which are Peruvian skewers made with beef hearts. “It’s a very humble dish,” Van Hess said.
While it may seem adventurous, Van Hess has faith in the dish’s potential. “We marinate it overnight to absorb the panca (Peruvian red pepper).”
The up-and-coming restaurant also boasts three different versions of ceviche, one of which is made with white fish from the Pacific Ocean. “We want to go for the best ingredients with the best flavor,” Van Hess said.
There’s also the beloved “Lomo Saltado,” a stir-fry steak dish that includes marinated steak and onions. Van Hess and her husband also plan to use the steak for a sandwich made on French bread, served with French fries and rice.
They’ll also offer vegetarian options on the menu.
In terms of the aesthetic for the restaurant, Van Hess uses the word “causal.”
“We want people to feel like they’re in Peru – the experience of being on the street in Peru. I want people to walk in and recognize it.”
They’ve even hired a pastry chef to make Peruvian desserts. The restaurant will start with 4 or 5 items— including snow cones — but will add more over time as their audience grows.
“In Peru, [snow cones] are actually made with fruits. They boil strawberries and blend sugar,” Van Hess said of the carefully crafted process she’s sure patrons will come to love.
They also hired Aaron Wilson, who will serve as a restaurant manager, and Javier Diaz, who will be the restaurant’s sous chef. Wilson and Diaz were supervisors for Spectrum Center and were laid off in March.
With so many plans, the Van Hesses are working diligently to create something new and special that honors the Peruvian street food culture, but that also gives back to it.
Five percent of the restaurant’s profits will go to Peruvian Hearts – a charitable nonprofit organization based in Golden, Colorado, that supports social, economic and political change in Peru through the education and empowerment of young women.
COVID precautions and compostable to-go containers
The restaurant is committed to following all safety precautions in light of the COVID-19 pandemic to protect their customers and themselves. All tables will be 6 feet apart, and the space will also include outdoor seating. The kitchen will be an open concept, where cooks can be seen making the food behind the counter.
In anticipation of many to-go orders, 95% of the environmentally conscious restaurant’s to-go containers will be made of compostable natural materials, and the other 5% will be recyclable containers.
“I’m a believer – I pray a lot. And so far, it hasn’t failed us. [The restaurant] is a true blessing in our lives,” said Van Hess, who is eager for the projected opening at the end of August.
“For me, I believe that Peruvian food is the key to many doors. People are going to love this food. People are going to love this place.”
Panca Peruvian Street Food
7510 Pineville-Mathews Road, 10A-2
Instagram: @pancastreetfood
Hours of operation:
Sunday-Thursday 11-9 p.m., Fridays 11-8 p.m., closed Saturdays
Editor’s note: This article originally published on July 31 and has since been updated.
This story was originally published July 31, 2020 at 12:33 PM.
