Food and Drink

Celebrate Easter or Passover with these family recipes from Charlotte chefs

Evan McHalffey, the chef at Forty Twelve, grew up eating cinnamon rolls for Easter.
Evan McHalffey, the chef at Forty Twelve, grew up eating cinnamon rolls for Easter.

Memories of my Ukrainian Easter

With the war in Ukraine destroying families, scorching the country and casting a dark backdrop for celebration, the light and hope Easter brings to some is even more special this year. The Observer’s Jodie Valade reflects on finding even more meaning in the art of making pysanky, Ukrainian Easter eggs. Sharing a story of love and grief, Valade also gives tips for making your own versions of these decorative eggs. So whether you are looking to hold onto tradition or you’re simply interested in the culture and a good story, read more of this special report below.

Whether you’re celebrating the start of Passover today or preparing for Easter on Sunday, chances are there are some traditional family dishes that will be making their way to your dinner table in the coming days.

There’s something so nostalgic about the familiar tastes and smells of certain foods — they have the power to instantly transport you to childhood. We reached out to six local chefs to ask them about the memory-inducing holiday foods on their menu. Not only did they share the recipes themselves, but they let us in on why these foods hold a special place in their hearts.

From Aunt Hazel’s corn pudding to Bubbie’s chocolate dipped coconut macaroons, we’ve got some dishes you may want to consider adding to your holiday feast.

Keisha Brynn, personal chef: Southern Collard Greens

“My family will always ask, “Who’s making the greens?” said Keisha Brynn, who is a personal chef at Southern Collard Greens. “Over time it has transitioned from Aunt Dot, who is my mother, to ‘Keisha is bringing the collard greens.’”

The collard greens are a family staple, and no holiday dinner is complete without them, Brynn told CharlotteFive. “I made a mistake and didn’t make enough for leftovers on Christmas, and the family is still talking about it. Oops, my bad! I will not make that mistake again.”

Southern Collard Greens are a holiday staple for chef Keisha Brynn’s family.
Southern Collard Greens are a holiday staple for chef Keisha Brynn’s family. Courtesy of Keisha Brynn

Southern Collard Greens

2 lbs. of washed and chopped collard greens

4 cups of salted water or chicken broth

1 package of smoked turkey necks

1 Tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

1/4 Tbs. olive oil or bacon fat

Combine oil and onions in a large pot and sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add the turkey necks, red pepper flakes and 4 cups of water or chicken broth to the pot, and cook for 30 minutes.

The meat on the turkey necks will be tender and falling off the bone. Pull meat from turkey necks with tongs, removing the turkey neck bones, or you can wait and remove it after the collards are completely cooked. Carefully add collards to the pot, allowing them to cook down for a couple of minutes, then adding the remaining collards to the pot. Cover and cook for 1 to 1.5 hours, stirring occasionally until tender. Collards can be garnished with diced tomatoes or paired with a slice of cornbread.

Keisha Brynn shares her family staple: Southern Collard Greens.
Keisha Brynn shares her family staple: Southern Collard Greens. Courtesy of Keisha Brynn

Sydney & Brandon Green, I.T.O. Creations: Corn Pudding

”Aunt” Hazel Redman of Redman, West Virginia, is responsible for starting the Green family tradition of enjoying corn pudding on holidays and special occasions.

“Corn Pudding’s sweet and savory combination made both kids and adults fall in love,” said Sydney Green, owner of I.T.O Creations. “In her memory, we make sure to prepare this particular dish with extra love because we could always feel and taste it in each buttery sweet bite.”

Hazel Redman’s Corn Pudding, shared by chefs Sydney and Brandon Green
Hazel Redman’s Corn Pudding, shared by chefs Sydney and Brandon Green Courtesy of Sydney and Brandon Green

Corn Pudding

1 can cream style corn

⅓ cup butter

⅓ cup sugar

1 level Tbs. of flour, mixed in with sugar

½ Tsp. salt

2 eggs, well beaten

½ cup milk

Spray baking dish, combine and bake at 375 until slightly brown.

Hazel Redman passed down her Corn Pudding recipe through the generations.
Hazel Redman passed down her Corn Pudding recipe through the generations. Courtesy of Sydney and Brandon Green

[RELATED: This year, my family’s Ukrainian Easter traditions are even more meaningful]

Jocelyn Lukacik, Sweet Spot Studio: Matza Brei

Jocelyn Lukacik’s grandmother, Tobie Fink passed away in October at the age of 92, but her memory lives on in her recipes. “She was an avid cook and definitely where my love for cooking and baking stems from,” Lukacik told CharlotteFive. Fink was responsible for having started Kosher Meals on Wheels in the greater Philadelphia area. Each Passover, she would make her matza brei, a tradition Lukacik continues.

With three quarters of Lukacik’s grandparents being Ashkenazi and her paternal grandmother Japanese, Lukacik has had exposure to a variety of cultures and traditions. “I feel extremely lucky to grow up in a multicultural family and am very proud of my Jewish heritage,” Lukacik said.

Passover Matza Brei (serves two)

2 eggs

1/2 cup milk or water

1/4 Tsp. salt

Dash of cinnamon

2 matzahs

3 Tbs. shortening

Beat eggs. Add liquid, salt. Break matzahs into this mixture. Soak well. Place in a well-heated frying pan, then cover and fry on both sides for a total of 7 minutes — 4 minutes first side, 3 minutes after turned. Serve with cinnamon and sugar, applesauce, syrup or honey.

Grandma Tobie’s Matza Brei recipe is tucked away in a family cookbook.
Grandma Tobie’s Matza Brei recipe is tucked away in a family cookbook. Courtesy of Jocelyn Lukacik

Evan McHalffey, Forty Twelve: Cinnamon Rolls

Raised Catholic, Evan McHalffey, chef at Forty Twelve, celebrated most religious holidays with a symbolic meal. “We weren’t too strict for Easter dinner, but our post-church meal was pretty consistent — and we always had cinnamon rolls.” It was the prospect of these warm pastries that McHalffey said kept him seated a bit more quietly in church.

Growing up in Wisconsin, McHalffey’s holidays would include upwards of 30-40 family members, and while his Easter gathering in Charlotte will be smaller this year, he continues the cinnamon roll tradition. “Nicole and I don’t have a family of our own yet, but we spend our Easter Sunday with her parents and brothers here in Charlotte. And coincidentally, my mother and a couple other members of my family will be down here this year to get some of this beautiful spring weather and a couple of cinnamon rolls,” McHalffey said.

Note: You’re going to want a kitchen scale for this recipe.

Evan McHalffey’s family cinnamon roll recipe uses vanilla bean and unrefined cane sugar.
Evan McHalffey’s family cinnamon roll recipe uses vanilla bean and unrefined cane sugar. Courtesy of Evan McHalffey

Cinnamon Rolls

Dough:

¾ oz instant dry yeast

6 oz whole fat milk (room temperature)

2.5 oz unsalted butter (room temperature)

1 oz extra virgin olive oil

3 oz unrefined cane sugar

1 vanilla bean(scraped)

5 egg yolks

15 oz all-purpose flour

1/4 oz Kosher salt

Pre-Bake:

1 oz unsalted butter (melted)

2.5 oz unrefined cane sugar

1 oz dark brown sugar

1/2 oz cinnamon

Glaze:

4 oz cream cheese (room temperature)

2 oz unsalted butter (room temperature)

4 ½ oz powdered sugar

½ vanilla bean (scraped)

Add yeast to the warm milk, mix with a whisk and allow to bloom for a few minutes. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter, sugar, extra virgin olive oil and cream until smooth. Separately, mix the egg and scraped vanilla bean. Slowly begin adding the egg mixture to the creamed butter on medium speed until fully incorporated.

Once it is mixed evenly, increase the mixer’s speed and whip until the batter becomes light and fluffy. Switch to the dough hook attachment, add the flour, salt, yeast mixture and begin to mix until a sticky dough forms, roughly 3 minutes. Turn out your dough on a lightly floured surface and begin to knead for 2-3 minutes. If the dough is too sticky, use very small amounts of flour to continue kneading. Once the dough is smooth and supple, drizzle a small amount of oil into a bowl, roll the dough in the oil to coat, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight.

Remove your dough from the refrigerator 1 hour prior to baking. Combine both sugars and cinnamon to form the filling and set aside. Turn out your dough onto a work surface lightly misted with non-stick cooking spray. Using a rolling pin, begin shaping your dough into a large square roughly a ¼ inch thick. Brush dough with the melted butter, then sprinkle on the cinnamon-sugar mixture evenly, leaving a slight border around all four edges. Begin rolling up your dough slowly to ensure an even cylinder and finishing with the seam side down. Using the heels of your hands, firmly rock the rolled up dough back and forth to lengthen it and create a smooth seal. Then cut the dough straight across into 12 equal pieces.

Line 2 half sheet pans with parchment paper and place the rolls spiral side up roughly 2 inches apart. Preheat your oven to 325 degrees and allow the rolls to sit at room temperature for a half hour. Bake the rolls for 10 minutes, rotate them, then bake for another 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove the rolls from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes.

While the rolls are cooling, use your stand mixer with the paddle attachment and add the cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar, vanilla bean and mix on medium speed until the mixture becomes well combined. Increase the speed and beat until it becomes light and fluffy. Using an offset spatula, remove the glaze from the mixer and apply it to the rolls as you see fit.

Evan McHalffey’s family made cinnamon rolls an Easter Sunday tradition.
Evan McHalffey’s family made cinnamon rolls an Easter Sunday tradition. Courtesy of Evan McHalffey

Hannah Woociker, Moonbox Bakery: Chocolate Dipped Coconut Macaroons

Hannah Woociker’s grandmother, “Bubbie” loved sweets, particularly macaroons. “She’d always stash an extra few containers of Manischewitz macaroons in the cupboard for later cravings every year,” Woociker said. Though not a baker herself, Bubbie would often take Woociker to her local Jewish bakery in Florida and share stories of growing up surrounded by bakeries in New York City.

“As I entered my career professionally, I started to recreate those beloved Jewish treats but bringing my love of Southern culture and cultures beyond, a twist in flavor to classic items. This recipe’s inspiration, with the use of fresh minced ginger and turmeric, came from learning about my partner’s culture and food from India,” Woociker said.

Note: Woociker choses to use ginger and turmeric as her flavor profile, but those ingredients can be omitted for a classic vanilla macaroon, or changed to create your own flavor profile.

Chocolate Dipped Macaroon with Turmeric & Ginger

6 cups unsweetened shredded coconut

14 oz can sweetened condensed milk

1 Tsp. vanilla extract

2 egg whites

1 Tsp. fresh ginger, minced*

1 Tsp. ground turmeric*

½ Tsp. fine sea salt

2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips, melted

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a bowl, combine the shredded coconut with the sweetened condensed milk. Stir to combine. Add vanilla, set aside. In an electric mixer bowl combine egg whites and salt, beat until soft peaks form. Gently fold egg whites into coconut mixture. Mix just until combined.

Scoop or spoon mixture, about 2 tablespoons, onto baking sheets that are covered with parchment paper sprayed with non-stick cooking spray. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown around the edges. Remove from the oven, then immediately remove cookies from the baking sheet and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Once macaroons have cooled, dip each macaroon into melted chocolate, then transfer to a baking sheet with parchment paper. Allow chocolate to set up completely, typically taking 1-2 hours.

Hannah Woociker’s Bubbie loved macaroons.
Hannah Woociker’s Bubbie loved macaroons. Courtesy of Hannah Woociker

This story was originally published April 15, 2022 at 6:15 AM.

Laurie Larsh
The Charlotte Observer
Laurie Larsh is a freelance writer and travel junkie with an affinity for sunglasses, coffee and all things Tarheels. Relentless curiosity about people and places keep her wondering and wandering near and far and writing stories about it. Follow her travel adventures on Instagram @goexplauring or her website www.goexplauring.com.
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