Food and Drink

You’ve seen this pasta on Food Network. Now, it’s arriving in Charlotte

Key Takeaways
Key Takeaways

AI-generated summary reviewed by our newsroom.

Read our AI Policy.


  • ESO Artisanal Pasta opens Aug. 8 at Optimist Hall in Charlotte, NC.
  • Chefs AJ Sankofa and Kristina Gambarian bring pasta, arancini and polpette.
  • Concept blends Italian tradition with fresh ingredients and global influences.

Freshly made pasta, arancini and polpette will be coming onto the food scene at Charlotte’s Optimist Hall on Aug. 8 as ESO Artisanal Pasta moves into the space next to Schreiber’s on Rye and Zukku Sushi.

The name may ring a bell for Food Network fans — married chefs AJ Sankofa and Kristina Gambarian once took their Italian cuisine on the road with “The Great Food Truck Race.” And Sankofa also made an appearance on “Chopped.” 

In fact, you might even see them on an upcoming episode of “The Great Food Truck Race,” which was recently filming in South Carolina and is debuting a new season this week. 

Chefs AJ Sankofa and Kristina Gambarian appeared on “The Great Food Truck Race” with their business, ESO Artisanal Pasta. Now, it’s coming to Charlotte’s Optimist Hall.
Chefs AJ Sankofa and Kristina Gambarian appeared on “The Great Food Truck Race” with their business, ESO Artisanal Pasta. Now, it’s coming to Charlotte’s Optimist Hall. ESO Artisanal Pasta

“We are beyond ecstatic for this next chapter of ESO and to return to the city of Charlotte, where I spent some of my childhood,” Sankofa said in a previous news release. 

ESO Artisanal Pasta — which got its start in Morristown, New Jersey — will aim for the feel of an Italian trattoria, with an edited menu focused on freshly made food. 

At Optimist Hall, you can expect a curated menu of Italian and American pastas, available in small portion sizes for $9 or larger ones for $15. You can make any pasta gluten-free for $2 more (thanks to a local assist from The Accidental Baker) or add extra cheese for $2. You can also make some items vegan by asking to remove the cheese.

Among ESO’s options are the squid bolognese, which grew out of a “fisherman’s stew” sort of meal he and a few former restaurant co-workers would make on Mondays after fishing together. It’s everything you’d expect from a traditional bolognese, with the addition of squid, anchovies and Calabrian chilis, bringing a pleasant level of salt and heat.

A close-up, high-angle shot of a pasta dish served in a round, rustic gray bowl. The dish features short, tubular pasta (likely rigatoni or ziti) covered in a chunky red tomato sauce with visible herbs and a drizzle of olive oil. The pasta is arranged in a small pile in the center of the bowl, which has a wide, textured rim. The bowl rests on a wooden surface.
ESO Artisanal Pasta’s squid bolognese. Heidi Finley CharlotteFive

There’s also a spaghetti pomodoro, with fresh basil, tomato and Parmiganiano-Reggiano. 

A close-up, high-angle shot of a pasta dish served in a round, light-colored bowl. The dish consists of several large, folded pasta pieces, possibly paccheri or manicotti, filled with a green mixture. They are covered in a rich, chunky red tomato sauce and generously topped with a sprinkle of grated white cheese and black pepper. The pasta is a vibrant, appealing orange-red color from the sauce. The bowl is set against a blurred light background.
Pasta pomodoro with tomato, basil and Parmigano-Reggiano from ESO Artisinal Pasta. Heidi Finley CharlotteFive

And among the standout options is also the cacio e pepe with bucatini, made with 100 cracks of black pepper per portion — and a hint of butter that increases the creaminess.

A high-angle shot of a small serving of cacio e pepe pasta on a dark, textured gray plate. The thick spaghetti or bucatini noodles are coated in a creamy, light-colored sauce and heavily seasoned with freshly cracked black pepper. The plate rests on a wooden table, and in the blurred background, other dishes and glassware, including what appears to be a charcuterie board with cured meat, are visible.
A sample portion of ESO’s cacio e pepe, made with 100 cracks of black pepper per serving, Pecorino Romano and a tiny touch of butter. Heidi Finley CharlotteFive

In slower times, you might be offered a snack of charcuterie and cheese while you wait for your pasta — a feature that might just end up as one of Optimist Hall’s secret menu items. 

[HUNGRY FOR MORE? Secret menu items at your favorite Optimist Hall stall, including a cheese-stuffed burger.]

The shop also features focaccia from Wheatberry Bakeshop, which worked with ESO to develop a recipe that’s more traditionally Italian than some of the other sourdough options found around Charlotte.

A close-up shot of two rectangular pieces of golden-brown focaccia bread, glistening with olive oil and topped with a sprig of rosemary. The bread, which has a soft-looking interior, is served in a round, rustic gray bowl. In the blurred background, other dishes and a piece of white cheese are visible.
Wheatberry Bakeshop’s focaccia is among the treasures found at ESO Artisanal Pasta in Optimist Hall. Heidi Finley CharlotteFive

Sankofa studied and lived in Italy, and has worked at the Michelin-starred Ristorante Larossa in Torino, along with New York City’s Legacy Records in Hudson Yards. It was there he met Gambarian, who’s from Ukraine and brings Eastern European influences to the party.

ESO Artisanal Pasta will join 26 other tenants at the food hall.

A portrait of a smiling man and woman standing behind a wooden counter in a professional kitchen. The woman on the left, wearing glasses, a black head covering, and a green apron over her white chef’s jacket, is giving a thumbs-up. The man on the right, with dark hair in dreadlocks, is wearing a white chef’s jacket with a brown apron and has his arm around the woman’s shoulder. They are both looking directly at the camera. A glass of white wine is visible on the counter in the foreground. The kitchen has bright yellow tile walls and stainless steel appliances.
AJ Sankofa and Kristina Gambarian are opening ESO at Optimist Hall on Friday, Aug. 8. Heidi Finley CharlotteFive

“Our mission at Optimist Hall is to bring the community together through food, and AJ and Kristina are doing just that through their concept ESO Artisanal Pasta,” Merritt Lancaster, Optimist Hall partner, said in the release. 

“With the wildly popular following they have built, we’re excited to see how they continue to grow at Optimist Hall, as Charlotteans are introduced to AJ and Kristina’s talent and high-quality offerings.”

Optimist Hall

Location: 1115 N Brevard St, Charlotte, NC 28206

Instagram: @optimisthallclt

This story was originally published March 25, 2024 at 10:31 AM.

Heidi Finley
The Charlotte Observer
Heidi Finley is a writer and editor for CharlotteFive and the Charlotte Observer. Outside of work, you will most likely find her in the suburbs driving kids around, volunteering and indulging in foodie pursuits. Support my work with a digital subscription
Get unlimited digital access
#ReadLocal

Try 1 month for $1

CLAIM OFFER