Food and Drink

I tried some ‘big back food’ at a West Charlotte restaurant. What I got for $25

I have always had a weakness for cheese and for anything that arrives with more toppings than strictly necessary. So when I heard about Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen, it sounded promising from the start.

The restaurant opened earlier this month, after a run as a food truck by Torey Johnson (better known as chef Gouda) and his wife, LaShay, CharlotteFive reported. The new space is takeout only. There are no seats to settle into, no tables to linger over and no reason to bring cash.

The menu centers on loaded fries — the kind that come buried under layers of cheese, meat and whatever else you decide to add.

A “Now Open” banner for “Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen” hanging on a grey and yellow brick wall. The sign features a chef logo and the slogan “Where everyday is Fry Day!” along with social media handles and hours.
The sign outside of Gouda’s Kitchen on Brookshire Boulevard. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

“Welcome to Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen, where every day is Fry-day,” LaShay said cheerfully, emerging from the kitchen when I walked in.

She walked me through the menu, then paused to offer a kind of warning.

“This is big back food,” she said.

The phrase “big back,” which has spread widely online in recent years, is often used to describe an especially enthusiastic approach to eating: large portions, indulgent combinations and a willingness to go all in. It can be joking, even affectionate, though not always.

In practical terms, it means this is not a place for restraint. If you are trying to eat lightly, you will struggle here.

But if what you want is something rich, messy and unapologetically over the top — especially if it involves melted cheese — Gouda’s makes a convincing case for itself.

Here’s what you need to know about Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen.

What’s on the menu at Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen?

Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen focuses on loaded comfort food built around fries, mac & cheese, and other hearty bases.

The menu is centered on “signature fries” topped with things like cheesesteak, jerk chicken, seafood or crab, along with customizable options, like veggies, proteins and sauces. They also offer cheesesteaks, wings, loaded hot dogs (“glizzies”), pasta, salads and a handful of lunch combo specials that bundle fries, protein and a drink.

Prices generally range from $8-$18, with premium or seafood-heavy dishes going up to $20-$26.

Here’s everything I got for $25 (including tax and tip):

  • Classic Glizzy ($6): A hot dog on a pretzel bun drenched in cheese sauce
  • Hot Cheetos Chicken Fries ($14): Loaded fries topped with cheese sauce, fried chicken pieces and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.
A hand holding an open brown cardboard takeout box containing a large grilled hot dog in a toasted bun, completely drenched in a thick, golden-orange cheese sauce.
The Classic Glizzy at Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen comes with cheese sauce and is sandwiched between a pretzel bun. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

The Classic Glizzy is exactly what it sounds like: simple, messy and kind of hard to resist. The pretzel bun gave it a little extra chew and saltiness, which helped balance out all that cheese sauce poured over the top. You pick it up, it drips a little and you’re immediately committed. For six bucks, it feels like a solid, no-frills indulgence.

The Hot Cheetos Chicken Fries were where things really went off the rails, in a good way. The fries came buried under a layer of cheese sauce, fried chicken pieces and a generous handful of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos that added crunch and heat. Every bite hit me with salt, spice and richness all at once.

A first-person view of a hand holding an open brown cardboard takeout box filled with golden fries, heavily smothered in creamy white cheese sauce and topped with a generous amount of crushed bright red spicy snacks.
The Hot Cheetos Chicken Fries from Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

That said, this is definitely a “know what you’re getting into” situation. The portion is big, and the flavors stack up fast, so it can feel like a lot after a few bites. But if you lean into it — maybe share it, or just accept that you’re going all in — it delivers exactly what it promises: over-the-top comfort food that’s more about fun than balance.

So, if you like your meals loaded and don’t mind if your back grows a little in the process, it’s worth planning a trip to Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen ASAP.

Gouda’s Loaded Kitchen

Location: 4431 Brookshire Blvd, Charlotte, NC 28216

Menu

Cuisine: Loaded fries, Philly cheesesteaks, wings and more

Instagram: @goudaskitchen7

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Evan Moore
The Charlotte Observer
Evan Moore is a service journalism reporter for the Charlotte Observer. He grew up in Denver, North Carolina, where he previously worked as a reporter for the Denver Citizen, and is a UNC Charlotte graduate.
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