Food and Drink

I ate $200 worth of food at Charlotte’s newest Italian spot. Was it worth it?

A whole roasted or grilled fish served in a shallow pool of light sauce on a red-and-white floral patterned oval platter. The fish is presented head-on, topped with capers, slivered garlic, and fresh green microgreens. A charred lemon half rests on the side of the plate.
The Picatta at Italo: grilled spatchcooked mediterranean branzino, capers, lemon and garlic. CharlotteFive

I wore shorts and a T-shirt on a chilly night in Charlotte, but I wasn’t going to let that stop me from sampling the food at Charlotte’s newest Italian restaurant: Italo.

I invited my friend Alex, who I’ve known since I was 12, partly because we reconnected a few months ago, but mostly because the guy I’m seeing was busy. She was great company.

Italo officially opens Tuesday, May 19, bringing handmade pasta, focaccia and other Italian staples to Charlotte in a space designed to feel intimate and relaxed, CharlotteFive previously reported. But on Thursday night, we got an early look — and taste.

A wide, eye-level shot of a busy, upscale Italian restaurant dining room. The room features intricate black-and-white patterned tile flooring and warm orange armchairs arranged around small tables. In the background, a brightly lit bar area stands beneath a white dropped ceiling panel with recessed lighting and hanging white globe pendants. Large, circular wrought-iron chandeliers with exposed bulbs hang from the high industrial ceiling. Guests are seen dining, walking, and sitting at the bar.
The dining room at Italo. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

Here’s everything we ordered.

Appetizers

Prosciutto and Mozzarella ($25): 600-day aged prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, aged balsamic, cracked black pepper

A close-up shot of an appetizer plate on a marble table. The off-white ceramic dish holds thin slices of pink prosciutto next to thick slices of fresh white mozzarella cheese. The cheese is drizzled with olive oil, a dark balsamic reduction, and a sprinkle of cracked black pepper. A person wearing a red-and-white striped shirt is partially visible in the background.
The Proscuitto and Mozzarella at Italo. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

Housemade Focaccia ($14): roasted garlic and herb focaccia, whipped sheep’s milk ricotta, fresh herb, extra virgin olive oil, aged balsamic

A close-up shot of a golden-brown, round loaf of focaccia bread, sliced into six wedges, served on a large white plate with a dark-speckled rim. The table is white marble, and a person in a red-and-white striped shirt sits in the background. Crystal water glasses and a stemless glass of red wine are visible next to the plate.
The Housemade Focaccia at Italo. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

I told Alex these dishes reminded me of a “bougie Lunchable,” and I meant it in the best way. The salty prosciutto and creamy mozzarella paired with the fluffy focaccia was an excellent combo. I filled up on the bread, but I knew I had to save room for more carbs.

Pasta

Tagliatelle ($24): Ragu bianco bolognese, wagyu beef, pancetta, prosciutto, mortadella, pecorino romano

A close-up shot of a pasta dish served in a wide, matte dark-brown bowl. The dish consists of thick, ribbon-like fettuccine noodles tossed in a rich, savory meat ragu sauce, topped with a generous dusting of finely grated Parmesan cheese.
The Tagliatelle at Italo, served with Ragu bianco bolognese, wagyu beef, pancetta, prosciutto, mortadella and pecorino romano. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

Linguini Vongole ($30): littleneck clams, basil pesto

A dark brown ceramic bowl filled with a pasta dish, positioned on a marble table. Long strands of spaghetti or linguine are tossed in a light green herb sauce, mixed with several open clams in their shells. The dish is garnished with fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves.
The Linguini Vongole at Italo. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

Turns out, Ragu isn’t just a pasta sauce brand – it’s a traditional Italian meat-based sauce typically served over pasta. I scarfed down the savory tagliatelle while Alex choked on a piece of basil, but she was fine. And the linguini was excellent.

Secondi (second course)

Picatta ($45): grilled spatchcooked mediterranean branzino, capers, lemon, garlic

A whole roasted or grilled fish served in a shallow pool of light sauce on a red-and-white floral patterned oval platter. The fish is presented head-on, topped with capers, slivered garlic, and fresh green microgreens. A charred lemon half rests on the side of the plate.
The Picatta at Italo: grilled spatchcooked mediterranean branzino, capers, lemon and garlic. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

Gnocchi ($12): Roman style semolina dumplings, parmesan, chives, extra virgin olive oil

A small, white ceramic baking dish with handles, containing about eight round, golden-brown gnocchi or baked semolina dumplings. The dumplings are lightly browned on top, dusted with cheese, and sprinkled with finely chopped chives. The dish rests on a white plate with a red floral design.
The gnocchi at Italo is seasoned with parmesan, chives and extra virgin olive oil. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

The general manager told us we should enjoy the picatta, a dish that, she said, would “stare back” at us. I didn’t know what she meant until I saw the fish head, but it was tender and perfectly-seasoned. The gnocchi came out piping hot, but was somehow even more pillowy than the focaccia.

Dessert

Gnam Gnam Gelato Sundae ($16): Chef’s choice

Ricotta Cheesecake ($15): Limoncello curd, lime wheel

Torta Al Cioccolato ($16): espresso ganache, salted caramel mousse, toasted crushed hazelnuts and shaved chocolate

Three desserts arranged on a white marble table. In the foreground, a slice of lemon or lime tart sits on a blue-and-white floral plate, topped with translucent citrus wheels. To the left, an ice cream sundae with chocolate sauce, whipped cream, a cherry, and a mini cannoli is served in a blue glass goblet. In the background, a dark chocolate lava cake or dome dessert sits on a pink-and-white floral plate.
The dessert lineup at Italo. Evan Moore CharlotteFive

The Gnam Gnam (pronounced like “nom nom”) sundae was appropriately named, because I woofed down that creamy chocolate and vanilla gelato in a matter of seconds. The cheesecake was citrusy without being overpowering, and the espresso ganache filling inside the torta was a welcome surprise.

Was it worth it?

Our total bill, including the glasses of wine we drank, would have come out to roughly $250, but the evening was complimentary as part of a media preview. Still, the experience was worthy of the price tag.

The food was divine, and the service was attentive and warm. Italo is unlikely to become an everyday restaurant for most diners, but for birthdays, anniversaries or the kind of evening that calls for lingering over pasta and wine, it makes a compelling case for itself.

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Evan Moore
The Charlotte Observer
Evan Moore is a service journalism reporter for the Charlotte Observer. He grew up in Denver, North Carolina, where he previously worked as a reporter for the Denver Citizen, and is a UNC Charlotte graduate.
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