Fourth Ward’s restaurant gem: How has Al Mike’s stayed true to itself all these years?

Editor’s note: The restaurant is closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day 2023, so make sure to get your holiday meal in ahead of time.

It’s a crisp evening in Charlotte, and you’ve just wandered into Alexander Michael’s — set in a cozy, historic Fourth Ward home at 401 W. 9th St. — for a hearty bite of comfort food.

A kind man with a notepad greets you with a smile and takes your name for a spot in line. He makes sure to check in with you as the line moves.

This memorable gentleman embodies the warmth and charm of the restaurant. It’s as if you’ve been invited into a comfortable dwelling for a home-cooked meal.

And in some ways, you have.

We asked Steve Casner, owner of Alexander Michael’s (Al Mike’s for short), to tell us about this gentleman. Turns out, you can add more than “host” to the list of this man’s duties.

“He is the head busboy and host, fixer of all things broken, bookkeeper, owner and operator. He is me,” Casner said.

[READ NEXT: Ghosts could sell more beer and wings but Charlotte seems spooked. Here’s why.]

Former general store, paint store, thrift store, grocery store. Now: Tavern.

Built in the 1890s, the building on 9th Street was home to the E.W. Berryhill Store for nearly 70 years. E.W. Berryhill served as both a grocery/general store as well as the Fourth Ward’s social and political center. During the late ‘60s and ‘70s, it functioned as a paint store, thrift shop, grocery and delicatessen. In 1983, it became the beloved neighborhood tavern that still serves as a social meeting space today.

“We opened the doors at 7:15 p.m. on April 27, 1983,” said Casner. “It was a Wednesday night and about two weeks behind our opening target. We were trying to get open for Springfest weekend, which we did.” The restaurant served 77 guests that night.

Decor: Then and now

The decor has not changed much since April 27, 1983. During a trip to the women’s restroom, you’ll find yourself greeted by what’s believed to be a structural pole — directly in the center of the walkway. According to the menu, “THE POLE” is “useful as an unsophisticated sobriety test.”

Explore the decor on the walls (while enjoying DC’s Potato Wedges for your appetizer), and you’ll discover family mementos or personal collections from the owners. These unique, historic elements give the space its charm.

“Mike & Zan (Alexander & Michael) got oak doors from the Independence Building, Charlotte’s first skyscraper, which was being demolished at the time. The doors became the base of the bar and backbar,” Casner said. Micheal Troiana and the late Alexander “Zan” Copeland III originally founded the restaurant and appointed Casner as manager. In 2004, Casner assumed the position of owner after buying the restaurant from Troiana (Troiana had previously purchased Copeland’s shares).

The prior tenants left behind two walk-in McRay antique coolers from the 1920s. These were promptly incorporated into the bar. Also left behind were as kitchen walk-ins, a reach-in cooler and a deli case.

While the deli case and big reach-in cooler are no longer part of the restaurant today, Casner prides himself on maintaining the familiarity of home.

“Each time I had to change, build, repair or upgrade anything, the goal was that our customers walk in and say, ‘I can’t tell that you did anything!’”

Your menu favorites remain, decades later

As such, the menu has remained constant over the years, with only a few changes.

“We have made adjustments, such as upgrading to organic and local sources where possible. Learn better, do better,” Casner said. “We never go cheap on our ingredients to make a buck and strive to keep everything as fresh as possible.”

When you take the first bite, you’ll agree.

Some of the most popular dishes are the 4th Ward Stroganoff, Honey Chicken, The London Broil, and the Black Quinoa Burger, Casner said.

Even the soup is a best seller.

“We sell gallons of the Spicy Crab Soup, even if it’s 90 degrees outside,” Casner said.

But the best dish is listed as an “Al Mike’s Favorite” on the menu: “What It Is”. If you’ve had it, you likely ordered it every visit thereafter. If you haven’t, it’s blackened chicken breast over fresh rotini in a cajun cream sauce, and you should immediately plan a visit to give it a try.

“It was a special that a longtime chef came up with,” Casner said. “It was not called the ‘What It Is’ back then. I was upgrading the menu and deemed the dish worthy of a permanent spot. Every name I came up with was redundant of the description. Late that night, exasperated, I wrote in ‘What It Is.’ When I came back to work on it the next day I still couldn’t come up with anything that made sense, so I said ‘That’s it … we’re just going to call it What It Is.’ It worked out pretty well … that was over 20 years ago.”

‘We have thrived throughout the culinary changes and the explosive growth of the city’

Aside from the menu, Casner also attributes the success of the restaurant to its Fourth Ward location.

“It is a unique location that cannot be contrived. I used to worry about all the new and shiny that was being built throughout the city and wondered if an ‘old school’ establishment could survive,” Casner said. “I don’t give that much thought anymore because we have thrived throughout the culinary changes and the explosive growth of the city. We stay true to what we are and don’t try to reinvent ourselves to compete with every new trend. We have no control on what is opening around us, we can simply focus on doing what we do as best we can.”

The same faces, year after year

Another reason for the long-term success of the neighborhood favorite?

“The people that work here now and the ones that came before them are what have given Alexander Michael’s its longevity. I’ve had employees that have worked here over 20 years,” Casner said. “I look for capable people with a solid work ethic that have been in the business for a while but are looking for balance between work and all things that are not work. I can say that the bulk of my staff is invested in the place and that’s important.”

While the menu and staff are important, one can make a strong argument that Al Mike’s success comes from the passion portrayed by its owner. His love for the business is evident from the moment he greets you at the entrance, no matter how busy the evening gets.

“There is a chaos to the restaurant business … that’s its nature. Some days it feels like the place is running me instead of me running it, but that’s the ongoing challenge,” Casner said. “The solution is to dig in and get whatever needs to be done … done.”

Casner said his favorite memory of Alexander Michael’s is actually not his memory at all: it’s everyone else’s.

“It’s when someone that previously worked here or a past patron of Al Mike’s walks back through the door after living life somewhere else for a period of time and tells me their story,” he said. “It means a lot when they remember their time here in a positive light. I like when people ‘get’ Al Mike’s.

“Priorities shift but the goal remains constant … to make sure, as best we can, that whoever comes in here leaves with the thought that they would like to return again.”

This story was originally published December 1, 2019 at 4:36 PM.