From Hugo’s Diner to The Mad Greek, why this restaurant has stood the test of time

As new restaurants open every day in Charlotte, it’s easy to forget about the old standbys, the places that have grown up alongside the Queen City. We think they’ll always be there for us, but so many favorites have closed along the way. This makes it even more important to support the ones we love. Our series highlights the classic Charlotte eats that you have frequented for years, reminding us why they have stood the test of time.

For nearly 30 years, the Limberakis family has been dishing out delectable Greek cuisine to hungry visitors from their beloved spot on South Boulevard. What began in 1991 as longtime local favorite Hugo’s Diner, named after the hurricane that walloped Charlotte in 1989, became The Mad Greek of Charlotte in 2008.

Brothers Chris and George Limberakis immigrated to the United States from a small island in Greece called Lefkada in the early 1970s. They realized their dream of owning a restaurant upon opening Hugo’s Diner, a popular joint for late-night service and classic diner fare with a handful of Greek classics.

Today, owner Chris, his son Peyton and a slew of cousins, siblings and in-laws keep the dream alive and sizzling.

The Mad Greek has undergone a significant transformation since its days as Hugo’s Diner, and its “Greek-ness” is anything but mild today. The restaurant welcomes customers with blue walls, photos and maps of Greece, blue booths and a hand-painted blue-and-white tiled ceiling reminiscent of the country’s flag.

“It gives it a little Greek,” said Peyton, who acts as marketing director, operations manager, server, cashier and general supervisor of everything-and-the-kitchen-sink.

So does everything else. From the flavorful food to the gracious service to the buzzing atmosphere, The Mad Greek is arguably the most authentically “Greek” place you can find in Charlotte.

The restaurant’s extensive menu lists everything from diner staples and familiar Greek favorites like gyro, moussaka and spanakopita to unexpected delicacies like whole grilled fish and calamari. Customers can dine in or take out Sunday - Thursday, from 10 a.m. - 9 p.m., and Friday - Saturday, from 10 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.

“My current favorite on the menu is Chicken Souvlaki,” Peyton said, describing a popular Greek street food of grilled chicken on skewers. “If we’re eating fancy, the rack of lamb.”

You read that right — rack of lamb.

While the menu’s size may appear intimidating, fear not. You cannot order wrong. Daily specials like Sunday Brunch and Wine Wednesday can help narrow your options, and breakfast lovers will appreciate The Mad Greek’s popular all-day breakfast menu.

With any meal, the homemade sauces are a must-add. Creamy tzatziki adds tangy flavor to fresh pita and tender gyro. If you order a salad, we recommend a healthy dose of the homemade Greek salad dressing. You can purchase a bottle or three to take home, too.

Another can’t-miss dish everyone needs to order? Feta fries. Topped with lemon, oregano and feta cheese, the “secret” menu item is not so secret any more, thanks to its popularity on The Mad Greek’s Instagram.

Top off your meal with a piece of homemade baklava, densely packed with honey-drenched walnuts and pistachios, and an astonishingly rich cappuccino, and you’re practically transported to the Mediterranean.

“You can’t get it anywhere else,” Chris said of his cappuccino. “I make the best.”

Thanks to The Mad Greek’s catering and presence on Postmates and Door Dash, you can now get your Greek fix anywhere.

But food is only one part of what makes this hardworking family affair an authentically Greek experience. They treat each customer with genuine warmth, greeting newcomers like old friends and regulars like family.

“From 3-5 p.m. all the Greeks come,” Peyton said. “You can hear them hollering on the back patio, playing backgammon and drinking coffee.”

On a busy Wednesday lunch rush, before the Greek men come in for their daily backgammon match, the Limberakises quickly jet from kitchen to counter to table while customer orders pour in. Their restaurant is alive with a whirl of energy — Greek and English voices fly across the room, the grill sizzles, plates clink, the phone rings and laughter punctuates it all.

Chris rolls up his sleeves and gets to work at the flat top, and Peyton takes orders at the counter, walks customers to the dining room and serves plates heaped with food. He never loses his infectious grin.

“If you’re not wearing a smile, then I haven’t done my job,” Peyton said.

This mindset is the key to success that has helped the Limberakises’ restaurant withstand the test of time in Charlotte’s ever-expanding restaurant world. Its longtime reputation of family and authenticity has brought hungry people through their doors for going on three decades, and Chris and Peyton see no end in sight.

“Here, it’s just organic, homemade, authentic,” Chris said.

Peyton believes The Mad Greek’s more recent face lift hasn’t hurt business, either. Since its early days with orange walls and a menu handcrafted on Microsoft Word, the restaurant has revamped its interior decor, menu design and online presence.

Peyton envisions even “more of a Greek feel” in The Mad Greek’s future and hopes to expand to a larger, sit-down restaurant with an abundant nightlife.

“I think every day about what we can do to be better,” he said.

“Music. Food. Fun. Breaking plates.” According to Peyton, that’s the Greek experience he wants to bring to the community. From where we sit, though, in front of mouthwatering dishes and surrounded by family, the Limberakis legacy is already mad Greek.

The Mad Greek of Charlotte

5011 South Blvd.

704-523-8296

Instagram: @madgreekclt

This story was originally published February 12, 2020 at 5:30 AM.

Lillian Parker

The Charlotte Observer